Am I required to use the Snap-On wrench, or is it okay for me to use my Crafstman?
Just did my first oil change by myself...
- Thread starter LouDawg
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Actually, I ALWAYS hovered over them because I have an intrinsic distrust of those guys!
I picked out a Snap-on because I figured you were a classy guy.
Thanks for the info, but mine is an M14, not an M12...I'll check for the othere size...
Crush washers are good.
Well, you know...thanks, you're sweet! Actually, I am classy, but not wealthy! hehehehequote:
Originally posted by GoldenRod:
I picked out a Snap-on because I figured you were a classy guy.
I found that too, but no price? Where to buy, and how much?
For some reason, all the sites I've gone to say your truck takes a 12mm x 1.25mm drain plug with a 14mm hex.
Did you use a 14mm or 16mm wrench to remove it?
LouDawg,
Are you going to answer my above question or not?
Are you going to answer my above question or not?
Sorry...been away from my computer all day! It was a 14mm wrench, so maybe the 12mm refers to the major o.d of the threaded area?quote:
Originally posted by GoldenRod:
LouDawg,
Are you going to answer my above question or not?
Yes! If it was a 14mm wrench, then that means the threaded portion is 12mm.
I guess that would explain why the 14mm washer was so loose on the "14 mm" drain plug, eh? hehehehequote:
Originally posted by GoldenRod:
Yes! If it was a 14mm wrench, then that means the threaded portion is 12mm.
yeah that would explain it. you use a 12mm drain plug. when ever you are reading threads the first number is the O.D. of the threads, the second number is the pitch. you can put nearly any size head on a 12mm plug.
ex: M12 x 1.5 = 12mm O.D. with a 1.5mm thread pitch.
another way you can keep the oil in the engine while changing the washer is, if you have a shop vac:
1. get shop vac and put rag around the end (no attachments) hold on to the rag tight or it will get sucked in.
2. take oil cap off and put the vacuum over the oil fill hole.
3. remove drain plug and replace washer and reinstall the plug. you will hear a gurgling noise when the plug comes out.
4. remove vacuum hose and shut off.
5. all done and no mess.
ive used this method a number of times when i worked at jiffy lube (dont judge me based on that, get to know me first
) and we never lost a drop of oil, unless someone removeded the vacuum early.
congrats on changing the oil for the first time. as you now see, its not too hard (except for those darn 2.4 frontier filters) and you will save a lot of money over time. i use synthetic oil and it costs me $27 w/filter. the same thing at a quick lube place costs >$55. instant $28 savings each time. i currently average ~25000 miles per year, so thats $140 saved for the year plus you get the piece of mind knowing exactly what you did, instead of trusting what someone else says they did on your expensive vehicle.
ex: M12 x 1.5 = 12mm O.D. with a 1.5mm thread pitch.
another way you can keep the oil in the engine while changing the washer is, if you have a shop vac:
1. get shop vac and put rag around the end (no attachments) hold on to the rag tight or it will get sucked in.
2. take oil cap off and put the vacuum over the oil fill hole.
3. remove drain plug and replace washer and reinstall the plug. you will hear a gurgling noise when the plug comes out.
4. remove vacuum hose and shut off.
5. all done and no mess.
ive used this method a number of times when i worked at jiffy lube (dont judge me based on that, get to know me first
congrats on changing the oil for the first time. as you now see, its not too hard (except for those darn 2.4 frontier filters) and you will save a lot of money over time. i use synthetic oil and it costs me $27 w/filter. the same thing at a quick lube place costs >$55. instant $28 savings each time. i currently average ~25000 miles per year, so thats $140 saved for the year plus you get the piece of mind knowing exactly what you did, instead of trusting what someone else says they did on your expensive vehicle.
Also remember to only put in the amount of oil stated in your manual, do NOT go by the dipstick.
If I go to the full level on my 4.3L dipstick on my Blazer, I will overfill it by almost a quart and will cause lifter clattering issues seeing the crank slaps the oil and introduces air into the oil system which migrates up into the lifters.
Trust me on this, ONLY the amount specified in the manual.
out of curiosity what does the manual say? every 4.3 i have ever done took between 4.5 and 4.75 qts of oil.
My 1995 says 4.25L per oil change with filter.
When full up to the top part of the cross-hatched area of the safe zone it takes 5.25L and this is where the valvetrain noise rears its ugly head.
Just a lot of people that blindly fill to the top of the safe area on their dipstick not even looking at their owner's manual for the proper amount is.
You would be surprised, in most cases it is off quite a bit. But sometimes it is perfect.
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