Is Valv Maxlife High Mileage oil just marketing?

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Does anyone know much about Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic Blend for high mileage cars? Is the high mileage designation just a marketing gimmick or do you think there is something to the oil having additives in it that conditions seals and rejuvenates them etc. It sounds like a good idea unless I'm just falling for somebodys good marketing idea. I have 187,500 on a van and thought this may make sense to use.
 
Let's assume for a minute that these oils are what they claim to be. Where did this 75,000 mile threshold come from? It seems
to be common with all manufacturers. Also just because you have high miles
on your engine, do you need this type of oil? Many engines reach a ripe old age with no issues such as those that these oils claim to address.Also Valvoline premium conventional claims to be engineered for the life of your engine, so why at 75K should I
all of the sudden switch to maxlife? Me thinks there may be some marketing here regardless of the capabilities of these oils.

SS

2000 Honda Accord
2004 Honda Pilot
MC5K/PureOne always
 
Thanks for your comment ssam. I'm curious if you're still on your original tranny on the Accord. My Honda with 187,500 is an Odessey on its third tranny. I heard the Accord had the same trans and same problem.
 
3 experience's here with it, 10w40 FWIW

Ran it in a 23 year old bike for a few OCI's, was amazed on how it cleaned. 1st noticed looking at the clutch plates though the oil fill hole. Then again when adj the valves, top end was spotless.

Fixed morning lifter tick in a subaru in about 2000 miles. I had tried all kinds of stuff before this and pretty much got used to it. Max life wasn't meant to be a fix, just had the oil so I used it.

Made a friction type cam chain tensioner slip in a early XR honda. Almost sure it was related, because I gave it another chance after 2 oci's with other oils, then it happened again after 1 ride. 300ppm moly?
 
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I think still they should be used only as needed. If your engine has no issues then why switch from a premium conventional oil
that has been working fine so far. Don't take medicine you don't need. Lex if your engine needs minor cleaning or has a small leak then by all means go ahead with HM.

SS

2000 Honda Accord 3.0L 128,000 mi. MC5K 5w-30
2004 Honda Pilot 3.5L 82,000 mi. MC5K 5w-20

both of these engines are clean as a whistle and run like new with no leaks.
Always used mobil conventional oils in both.
 
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What about an engine that say, runs in perfect running order, engines is spotless, but it leaves a dime size drop of oil on the ground over night...would any of you say it is time to use HM only only because of this small of a leak?
 
Give it a try. It most likely is perfect for this scenario. It fixed a small "drop" om my 120k Miata. I love the stuff.
 
perfect situation to try HM oil. Go with the valvoline. It seems to be the most highly touted here on these boards. And use reccomended viscosity not a thicker one.


SS
 
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I would run Maxlife in a brand new engine. Closest I have come is my motorhome which had 9700 miles on it when I bought it. Gets a steady diet of Maxlife Synthetic.

HM is great oil. If they have to say it's for >75,000 miles to market it, so be it. I actually avoided the stuff on that basis at first until I read some information about HM oil on the NORIA website. My first reaction was it was baloney, but I was wrong.
 
Originally Posted By: wileyE
3 experience's here with it, 10w40 FWIW ...
Fixed morning lifter tick in a subaru in about 2000 miles. I had tried all kinds of stuff before this and pretty much got used to it. Max life wasn't meant to be a fix, just had the oil so I used it.

I should try Max Life in my wife's '99 Outback. Nothing seems to help the lifter tick in it. I've tried synthetic, conventional, blends, 5W30, 10W30 and 10W40. I haven't tried an HM oil though.

It sounds like a diesel.
55.gif


-Dennis
 
Definitely NOT marketing hype. Non-HM oil in my car and I have very noticeable start-up smoke! HM oil in my car and the start-up smoke is completely unnoticeable 90% of the time.

Highly recommend all of them (I've used them) - Wally ST HM, Max Life, Castrol HM - but my favorite has become Mobil 1 10w40 HM - taking it to a one year/~6k OCI on the errand car (its the one with the smoke issue).
 
Originally Posted By: ericthepig
Definitely NOT marketing hype. Non-HM oil in my car and I have very noticeable start-up smoke! HM oil in my car and the start-up smoke is completely unnoticeable 90% of the time.


Haha, its the opposite with my cars. The HM package seems to smoke off on startup as opposed to nothing on a regular oil.
 
One thing I did notice today while comparing the oil brands at Wmart. None of the HM oils has the energy conserving marking on them, even in 5w-30 and 10w-30 weights. Is this because they are heavier in there respective viscosities or is there another explanation. Picked up a 5 qt jug of MC5K 5w-30 for a mere
$8.97. add in a pure one filter for about 5 bucks and you have a great 5k OC for under 15 bucks.

SS
 
Originally Posted By: slipperysam
One thing I did notice today while comparing the oil brands at Wmart. None of the HM oils has the energy conserving marking on them, even in 5w-30 and 10w-30 weights. Is this because they are heavier in there respective viscosities or is there another explanation. Picked up a 5 qt jug of MC5K 5w-30 for a mere
$8.97. add in a pure one filter for about 5 bucks and you have a great 5k OC for under 15 bucks.

SS


Yes, I would like to know the answer to your question as well.
Also, does anyone know why Mobil Clean High Mileage IS engergery conserving and why Walmart Supertech HM is energy conserving? What is their secrete to producing an "engergy conserving" HM oil?
 
Just keep your expatiations under control. The fact that you see the problem and change the oil and watch it may cause undue worry of the natural aging process. Don’t expect a mechanical fix and give it a try. Then you can tell us if you had any success.
 
Depending how "deep" you want to get into correcting that Subaru tap, you may want to try RedLine with all that moly they have in it. That might silence it but of course more costly too. I've heard others say that the extra moly seemed to be the answer.
 
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