Is this severe service?
- Thread starter lovcom
- Start date
- Status
gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
If it's money savings you're worried about, I'd suggest slowing down, switching to dino and sticking with the OCI you're on now. That RPM is actually ideal for the motor. You will NOT have excessive wear. Wear comes from cold starts, stop-and-go traffic and poor maintenance. With the way you drive your motor and transmission will last forever. Over the life of the car you'll just be spending more money on gas, and maybe a little more on tires.
IMHO, you really only have two options here if you want peace of mind:
1. Do a UOA at your normal interval to determine how much further you can go. The test is only $32.50, and if it shows you can double your interval, then there's the cost right there. Cost you $0 and the peace of mind was free.
2. If you'd rather not spend the money, then I'd suggest you switch to any decent dino and run the OCI you're at now. What does Toyota suggest for "normal" driving? If you're worried about the warranty you still have left I'd just stick with that.
IMHO, you really only have two options here if you want peace of mind:
1. Do a UOA at your normal interval to determine how much further you can go. The test is only $32.50, and if it shows you can double your interval, then there's the cost right there. Cost you $0 and the peace of mind was free.
2. If you'd rather not spend the money, then I'd suggest you switch to any decent dino and run the OCI you're at now. What does Toyota suggest for "normal" driving? If you're worried about the warranty you still have left I'd just stick with that.
Originally Posted By: lovcom
Thanks for the responses. Yea, I thought as much, but wanted confirmation. I guess what concerned me was the 3,400 RPM's for nearly the entire trip.
I leave home at 4:30AM, then leave work for the return 2:00PM. Otherwise the So. Cal traffic is murder.
If I switched to dino, how long could my OCI be? Changing the filter every other okay?
Sounds like my drive (190 miles per day) but I keep my speed around 70 mph (saves 5% to 8% on gas vs doing 75 mph). I use Mobil Clean 7500 (a blend) and go around 6000 to 6500 between changes. Easy driving conditions on the engine.
Regards,
GEWB
Thanks for the responses. Yea, I thought as much, but wanted confirmation. I guess what concerned me was the 3,400 RPM's for nearly the entire trip.
I leave home at 4:30AM, then leave work for the return 2:00PM. Otherwise the So. Cal traffic is murder.
If I switched to dino, how long could my OCI be? Changing the filter every other okay?
Sounds like my drive (190 miles per day) but I keep my speed around 70 mph (saves 5% to 8% on gas vs doing 75 mph). I use Mobil Clean 7500 (a blend) and go around 6000 to 6500 between changes. Easy driving conditions on the engine.
Regards,
GEWB
Thanks everyone for your replies. I feel better. However, the one last concern I have is the sustained 3,300 - 3,400 revs for nearly one hour. A few of you think this is not going to add overt wear and tear, and I tend to agree. Anyone else think otherwise?
The long distance commute started a month ago to get to a new job.
As to slowing down, I really can't back away from the 80-85 mph because if I do, or if I leave later, traffic builds very fast and my 50 minute commute can turn into 120 minutes fast. I do realize I'm buring a lot of gas, even for a sipper. As it is now, I leave the house at 4:30AM.
The Yaris currently has 54,000 miles and just replaced the tires 200 miles ago (2nd set). Brakes still have more then half life in them. Motor is quiet, not buzzy (unless I put my foot into it), and runs smooth, and in fact smoother then my GF's 2009 Corolla with the 1.8L. The car pulls just ask good as the day I bought it; perhaps a tad better even.
Anything else I can do, maintenence-wise to insure long engine life? I add about 4 oz. of Lucas UCL every tank and I found it to give me 7% more MPG over a years worth of tanks. I'm going to replace the PCV this weekend, as it is just $6.00.
The long distance commute started a month ago to get to a new job.
As to slowing down, I really can't back away from the 80-85 mph because if I do, or if I leave later, traffic builds very fast and my 50 minute commute can turn into 120 minutes fast. I do realize I'm buring a lot of gas, even for a sipper. As it is now, I leave the house at 4:30AM.
The Yaris currently has 54,000 miles and just replaced the tires 200 miles ago (2nd set). Brakes still have more then half life in them. Motor is quiet, not buzzy (unless I put my foot into it), and runs smooth, and in fact smoother then my GF's 2009 Corolla with the 1.8L. The car pulls just ask good as the day I bought it; perhaps a tad better even.
Anything else I can do, maintenence-wise to insure long engine life? I add about 4 oz. of Lucas UCL every tank and I found it to give me 7% more MPG over a years worth of tanks. I'm going to replace the PCV this weekend, as it is just $6.00.
Last edited:
The 3,400 rpms is why I suggested going somewhere between normal and severe service recommendations. You're driving a lot of miles in a short period of time, and that OCI will probably benefit you in the long run for long engine life. Or as others have stated have a UOA done, and take all the guess work out of it. Sample the oil at your normal OCI send it out and see where you stand. JMO
Severe service? I doubt it. Your vehicle doesn't use any oil, get a UOA done if you're worried about OCI.
Originally Posted By: lovcom
...I currently run Mobil1 0w-20 for winter, 0w30 or PP 5w30 for the other 3 seawsons...
Having lived in the mid-west I find the above to be one of those statements that people from the west coast make but it doesn't necessarily make sense. Yes, you have a winter, but three other seasons?
Clark
Originally Posted By: lovcom
...I currently run Mobil1 0w-20 for winter, 0w30 or PP 5w30 for the other 3 seawsons...
Having lived in the mid-west I find the above to be one of those statements that people from the west coast make but it doesn't necessarily make sense. Yes, you have a winter, but three other seasons?
Clark
not in my opinion is this severe service, but according to 99% auto manufactures sever service is 99% freeway drive time so thats something to think about. but like clark b said a UOA would be a good idea
Last edited:
You couldn't get a better operating condition for your engine.That is about the best operating condition there is . Run 10,000 miles and do a uoa ,share it with us. You most likly could go further with a long drain oil. Again that is the most ideal operating condition for every aspect of operation that will lead to long engine life. Not opinion but fact.
Originally Posted By: grease_monkey
not in my opinion is this severe service, but according to 99% auto manufactures sever service is 99% freeway drive time so thats something to think about. but like clark b said a UOA would be a good idea
Ok, but is that stop and go freeway time or free flowing freeway time?
Yea, perhaps I should get a UOA, but I'm too cheap to do it...but maybe I should....hmmmmm.....
not in my opinion is this severe service, but according to 99% auto manufactures sever service is 99% freeway drive time so thats something to think about. but like clark b said a UOA would be a good idea
Ok, but is that stop and go freeway time or free flowing freeway time?
Yea, perhaps I should get a UOA, but I'm too cheap to do it...but maybe I should....hmmmmm.....
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ClarkB
Severe service? I doubt it. Your vehicle doesn't use any oil, get a UOA done if you're worried about OCI.
Originally Posted By: lovcom
...I currently run Mobil1 0w-20 for winter, 0w30 or PP 5w30 for the other 3 seawsons...
Having lived in the mid-west I find the above to be one of those statements that people from the west coast make but it doesn't necessarily make sense. Yes, you have a winter, but three other seasons?
Clark
Well, during the winter, it can often get in the mid to high 30s in the wee hours of the morning...does that count?
Severe service? I doubt it. Your vehicle doesn't use any oil, get a UOA done if you're worried about OCI.
Originally Posted By: lovcom
...I currently run Mobil1 0w-20 for winter, 0w30 or PP 5w30 for the other 3 seawsons...
Having lived in the mid-west I find the above to be one of those statements that people from the west coast make but it doesn't necessarily make sense. Yes, you have a winter, but three other seasons?
Clark
Well, during the winter, it can often get in the mid to high 30s in the wee hours of the morning...does that count?
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: lovcom
Originally Posted By: ClarkB
Severe service? I doubt it. Your vehicle doesn't use any oil, get a UOA done if you're worried about OCI.
Originally Posted By: lovcom
...I currently run Mobil1 0w-20 for winter, 0w30 or PP 5w30 for the other 3 seawsons...
Having lived in the mid-west I find the above to be one of those statements that people from the west coast make but it doesn't necessarily make sense. Yes, you have a winter, but three other seasons?
Clark
Well, during the winter, it can often get in the mid to high 30s in the wee hours of the morning...does that count?
With 2 starts a day on that car, i'd be running a good quality 30w year round if it were mine. Not only that, i'd be running a long drain interval like 15-20k.
Originally Posted By: ClarkB
Severe service? I doubt it. Your vehicle doesn't use any oil, get a UOA done if you're worried about OCI.
Originally Posted By: lovcom
...I currently run Mobil1 0w-20 for winter, 0w30 or PP 5w30 for the other 3 seawsons...
Having lived in the mid-west I find the above to be one of those statements that people from the west coast make but it doesn't necessarily make sense. Yes, you have a winter, but three other seasons?
Clark
Well, during the winter, it can often get in the mid to high 30s in the wee hours of the morning...does that count?
With 2 starts a day on that car, i'd be running a good quality 30w year round if it were mine. Not only that, i'd be running a long drain interval like 15-20k.
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Bambam, the OP wasn't making a "bold recommendation", he was trying to get our opinion of the fact that he changes his filter every other time.
Cool use of the color function
BTW, how did you manage to edit someone else's post?
I crossed out changing the filter every other change cause I thought it was a bad idea. I thought it rather bold of you to reccomend a switch to Amsoil and try 20k oci's..
Thanks
Internet magic!
Bambam, the OP wasn't making a "bold recommendation", he was trying to get our opinion of the fact that he changes his filter every other time.
Cool use of the color function
BTW, how did you manage to edit someone else's post?
I crossed out changing the filter every other change cause I thought it was a bad idea. I thought it rather bold of you to reccomend a switch to Amsoil and try 20k oci's..
Thanks
Internet magic!
Originally Posted By: lovcom
Thanks everyone for your replies. I feel better. However, the one last concern I have is the sustained 3,300 - 3,400 revs for nearly one hour. A few of you think this is not going to add overt wear and tear, and I tend to agree. Anyone else think otherwise?
No problem (unless your red line is 3,500).
Originally Posted By: lovcom
The long distance commute started a month ago to get to a new job.
My job is finishing up (next month) - six years, over 290,000 miles driven.
Originally Posted By: lovcom
As to slowing down, I really can't back away from the 80-85 mph because if I do, or if I leave later, traffic builds very fast and my 50 minute commute can turn into 120 minutes fast. I do realize I'm buring a lot of gas, even for a sipper. As it is now, I leave the house at 4:30AM.
I know how it is. I leave at 4:30 am because traffic during the first 50 miles picks up after 5:30 am. I leave at 2:30 pm but the drive home isn't time sensitive...if it takes 30 minutes longer, so be it as I would rather save the $$ on gas. It really adds up after a year!
Originally Posted By: lovcom
The Yaris currently has 54,000 miles and just replaced the tires 200 miles ago (2nd set). Brakes still have more then half life in them. Motor is quiet, not buzzy (unless I put my foot into it), and runs smooth, and in fact smoother then my GF's 2009 Corolla with the 1.8L. The car pulls just ask good as the day I bought it; perhaps a tad better even.
I sold one of my vehicles after 188,345 miles and it still had the original brake pads with 30% remaining. I went through a set of tires every 47,000 miles and a windscreen about every year.
Get a good DIAL type tire pressure gage so you can easily tell 1/4 pound settings. Experiment with tire pressure to get the best handling for your drive. Check the pressure every week (or more) - it will become a habit. My car calls for 30 psi all around but the best handling and ride (comfort) is with 32 to 32.5 front and 30.5 rear. By now I can tell when a tire is 1/3 pound "off" from the others (it doesn't take long to learn the "feel").
Originally Posted By: lovcom
Anything else I can do, maintenence-wise to insure long engine life? I add about 4 oz. of Lucas UCL every tank and I found it to give me 7% more MPG over a years worth of tanks. I'm going to replace the PCV this weekend, as it is just $6.00.
If you have power steering, change the fluid every 18 months. Change the coolant every 18 to 24 months. Stay on top of the oil changes. Inspect your belts every time you change the oil.
Regards,
GEWB
Thanks everyone for your replies. I feel better. However, the one last concern I have is the sustained 3,300 - 3,400 revs for nearly one hour. A few of you think this is not going to add overt wear and tear, and I tend to agree. Anyone else think otherwise?
No problem (unless your red line is 3,500).
Originally Posted By: lovcom
The long distance commute started a month ago to get to a new job.
My job is finishing up (next month) - six years, over 290,000 miles driven.
Originally Posted By: lovcom
As to slowing down, I really can't back away from the 80-85 mph because if I do, or if I leave later, traffic builds very fast and my 50 minute commute can turn into 120 minutes fast. I do realize I'm buring a lot of gas, even for a sipper. As it is now, I leave the house at 4:30AM.
I know how it is. I leave at 4:30 am because traffic during the first 50 miles picks up after 5:30 am. I leave at 2:30 pm but the drive home isn't time sensitive...if it takes 30 minutes longer, so be it as I would rather save the $$ on gas. It really adds up after a year!
Originally Posted By: lovcom
The Yaris currently has 54,000 miles and just replaced the tires 200 miles ago (2nd set). Brakes still have more then half life in them. Motor is quiet, not buzzy (unless I put my foot into it), and runs smooth, and in fact smoother then my GF's 2009 Corolla with the 1.8L. The car pulls just ask good as the day I bought it; perhaps a tad better even.
I sold one of my vehicles after 188,345 miles and it still had the original brake pads with 30% remaining. I went through a set of tires every 47,000 miles and a windscreen about every year.
Get a good DIAL type tire pressure gage so you can easily tell 1/4 pound settings. Experiment with tire pressure to get the best handling for your drive. Check the pressure every week (or more) - it will become a habit. My car calls for 30 psi all around but the best handling and ride (comfort) is with 32 to 32.5 front and 30.5 rear. By now I can tell when a tire is 1/3 pound "off" from the others (it doesn't take long to learn the "feel").
Originally Posted By: lovcom
Anything else I can do, maintenence-wise to insure long engine life? I add about 4 oz. of Lucas UCL every tank and I found it to give me 7% more MPG over a years worth of tanks. I'm going to replace the PCV this weekend, as it is just $6.00.
If you have power steering, change the fluid every 18 months. Change the coolant every 18 to 24 months. Stay on top of the oil changes. Inspect your belts every time you change the oil.
Regards,
GEWB
Last edited:
GEWB, thanks for the info. As to power steering, the Yaris has an electric motor for that.
- Status
Similar threads
