Is this engine a candidate for Kreen?

[Mud]

I've read the posts related to Kreen and wanted to ask for opinions regarding my specific situation.
Here's what I've got:
57 Chevy with a 454 BBC, mild street build engine, 7 qt oil pan, generally have used 10W-40, 5W-40 since 1987 when I built the engine. Very low usage year to year - in fact some recent years have been less than 100 miles. Car gets started up fairly regularly but has sat more than it's been run. There have been a few times when it has sat for months without being started. However, luckily (so far) it has no operating issues. I pulled the intake a couple of years ago and the lifter valley was spotless, no build-up or sludge in any corners.
I've been driving it more now but was wondering if a dose of Kreen may provide some PM, especially at the ring packs. My thinking is that the long periods sitting may have contributed to deposits somewhere? Or should I just drive it, using an oil known for a bit better cleaning such as PP?

 

[eagle23]

I would think a good high detergent synthetic like Pennzoil Platinum or Pennzoil Ultra would be fine, though not really necessary other than your own peace of mind. Whatever regimen you've been using seems to be working.

I like Kreen and am using it in my old Ranger, but I don't see it's being for your situation. The lifter valley is spotless, so I'd have to suspect the ring packs are too given the low miles you accumulate.

Of course having some pictures of the vehicle the engine is resting in might make for a better assessment

 

[Trav]

I don't think i would go the Kreen (or any other in the sump product for that matter) route.
From what you say the engine sounds clean enough that something like PU or Rotella should clean up whatever there may be in the ring area.

I would go with the Pennzoil Ultra / Pennzoil Platinum 5w40 or Rotella T6 5w40 in this engine.

 

[ABerns]

Yep, I would just use a quality synthetic (if it helps you sleep at night) and avoid the Kreen. Frankly, I think you're just fine with what you are doing, so no need to change.

 

[LeakySeals]

Here's my experience with Kreen. I have used Kreen in several different engines now. Some that were totally sludged, some had been running Pennzoil Ultra, Pennzoil Platinum, Mobil 1, Mobil 1 High Mileage, etc. for thousands of miles.

While Kreen really helps with sludge, deposits, etc., so do the quality synthetics listed above. Other than making the process go faster, quality synthetics or Kreen will get you the same results eventually.

But that last little bit of varnish and crud that stubbornly remains on the dipstick, cam/lobes, etc. Most people don't care about that. Can Kreen remove what the best quality synthetics can't? It did for me. Give it a maintenance dose, see what you get. We know looking at a dipstick is not much of an indicator for most oil related issues, but it clearly shows you there's a lot of junk in suspension shortly after its use.

I think Kreen's best use is occasional maintenance in addition to a quality synthetic for that extra little kick in detergent power.

 

[Loobed]

I don't think your engine needs a cleaning. Since you use 5w-40, which is a synthetic, your engine should stay clean. Since the spark plugs are easy to get at in the 57, you could use fogging oil when the engine is cold. It would keep the cylinders from rusting which would probably be you largest source for wear. I also suggest Shell Rotella 5w-40. I know that stuff will keep your engine clean. It kept my motorcycle engine spotless inside for almost 100,000 miles.

 

[DBMaster]

That sure is a pretty motor!

 

[Mud]

Gents, thanks very much for your help

looks like a continued approach with T6 is the most reasonable approach, although I hear what you say about a maintenance dose of Kreen. Since the driving of this thing has increased I'll go with T6 only for now.
PS thank you for nice comments too.

 

[95busa]

5500 RPM at WOT should do it

 

[Loobed]

Originally Posted By: Mud
Gents, thanks very much for your help

looks like a continued approach with T6 is the most reasonable approach, although I hear what you say about a maintenance dose of Kreen. Since the driving of this thing has increased I'll go with T6 only for now.
PS thank you for nice comments too.

Back in 1978 my father gave me his 57 BelAir he bought new in 1957. I started to take it apart so that I could refinish it and have it ready for when I turned 16 and got my license. Somehow I got interested in girls and it never got put back together. I think all the pieces are still at my parents house.

 

[Trav]

Nice car and a nice engine! Its great to see there as still some "real American" cars being kept in nice shape, its a rolling piece of history and a remainder of better times.

 

[sprocketser]

Love these ! a friend of mine is making the same as you buddy ! bbc in a 57 Chevy #1

 

[eagle23]

See, told you the assessments would be better with pix

Nice looking ride!

I have a SIL whose grandfather gave her his 57 (either 2 door or 4 door hardtop) with the factory power package, which I think was the 283 with a 4-barrel. This was about 1964 when she was attending U of Texas in Austin. I saw the car once back then and knew the 57 Chevy was an icon, but it didn't look as nice...or go as fast...as what you've got.

 

[Mud]

Originally Posted By: eagle23
See, told you the assessments would be better with pix

LOL, you were right, needed for accurate refined final assessments

I will digress a bit from the original Kreen question just to add a little history. I built the car from 1985-1990 in a 2 car garage, did everything except upholstery. Kind of hard to believe that I've had it that long but I've actually been thinking about another resto to roll some additional engine, suspension, and interior upgrades into it. I did the car show stuff for a while, but now I prefer to drive and enjoy it without worrying if the underside may get some dirt on it

Couple more pics, battery is in the trunk behind right panel. Going to replace the console with something smaller, molded, and color-matched, but the reason I did it was to avoid cutting into the car for gauges/switches.

thanks again for the help on the original post.

 

[sprocketser]

Nice interior too buddy !

 

[skyship]

Nice motor, so don't ruin it by using additives. Your engine is obviously not suffering from sludge and as long as you run it every month minimum it should be fine.
Modern oils last a long time when they are not used and if your car is in a garage a 2 year OCI would not be an issue.
A good blast down the highway on a Sunday is always good for a motor, it burns off any fuel contamination in the oil and the higher oil temperatures and flow will help the oil dissolve any deposits. Any carbon deposits inside the cylinder tend to get burnt off and a sustained high power run will do the engine far more good than any fuel or oil additive.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Implying that additives 'ruin' a car is not truth, just opinion.

As long as we are all allowed our differences no two cars will be used in exactly the same manner, meaning an additive may have a place in someone's specific driving pattern.

 

[Mud]

All good advice, I agree that additives can help with certain conditions, which is what got me to ask about Kreen in the first post. I do use stabil and dose of mmo in the fuel, seems to do fine.
But as I think most have noted, it just needs to be driven! Just sitting does no good. With the TH400 and 3.70 gear, the engine turns right at 3k at 70mph, which seems to provide some good exercise

with 3" pipes/flowmasters the exhaust is music lol. But def not a daily driver.

 

[SteveSRT8]

We are BIG Kreen fans here, ordering it a gallon at a time. Great stuff.

Almost any engine with 100k miles is a candidate as the ring packs will be coked up no matter the oil you use. But I see nothing here to indicate that's an issue for you.

Enjoy that old Chevy, it looks like fun in a straight line!

 

[Trav]

Quote:
Any carbon deposits inside the cylinder tend to get burnt off and a sustained high power run will do the engine far more good than any fuel or oil additive.

Never worked on a N* i take it. No amount of driving hard or otherwise will ever loosen the carbon in these engines.
Quote:
so don't ruin it by using additives

That's a little over the top IMO.
An engine with sticky rings, lifters, minor deposit build up or varnish can many times be brought back with the right product.

I agree most mechanic in a can is snake oil but there are some products that work very well and cause no damage if used correctly.