Any ideas on this? Recently went back through the BITOG motor oil university, and I can't think of a single reason, if the only difference between two oils was that one was 0w-30 and the other was 10w-30, why you would go with that 10w-30 oil? Thoughts?
Is there any reason NOT to run a 0w-30 engine oil?
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It's probably cheaper and 0W oils are only needed below minus 25C according to the oil companies, although they are good for the battery and starter motor.
Nowadays the reasons NOT to use a 0wX oil are shrinking, I agree,
Originally Posted By: volk06
Availability is a issue for some people. 10w30 is usually a more stable oil with less NOACK. Buster posted a article about having a small bit more varnish when using 0w oils due to the VII in the oil.
So all the thin oil 0w20 users will varnish up over time?
Availability is a issue for some people. 10w30 is usually a more stable oil with less NOACK. Buster posted a article about having a small bit more varnish when using 0w oils due to the VII in the oil.
So all the thin oil 0w20 users will varnish up over time?
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: volk06
Availability is a issue for some people. 10w30 is usually a more stable oil with less NOACK. Buster posted a article about having a small bit more varnish when using 0w oils due to the VII in the oil.
So all the thin oil 0w20 users will varnish up over time?
That all depends on way to many factors. You'll have to read the whole article to get a better understanding. Hopefully Buster will post it here, he posted it not to long ago.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Availability is a issue for some people. 10w30 is usually a more stable oil with less NOACK. Buster posted a article about having a small bit more varnish when using 0w oils due to the VII in the oil.
So all the thin oil 0w20 users will varnish up over time?
That all depends on way to many factors. You'll have to read the whole article to get a better understanding. Hopefully Buster will post it here, he posted it not to long ago.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: volk06
Availability is a issue for some people. 10w30 is usually a more stable oil with less NOACK. Buster posted a article about having a small bit more varnish when using 0w oils due to the VII in the oil.
So all the thin oil 0w20 users will varnish up over time?
That all depends on way to many factors. You'll have to read the whole article to get a better understanding. Hopefully Buster will post it here, he posted it not to long ago.
Thanks. Now that Walmart is selling 0w40 in the jugs I wanted to try it out on my 2 Highway oil burners. Hoping the 40 weight can help there but keep the 0 for starts, warmups, etc.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: volk06
Availability is a issue for some people. 10w30 is usually a more stable oil with less NOACK. Buster posted a article about having a small bit more varnish when using 0w oils due to the VII in the oil.
So all the thin oil 0w20 users will varnish up over time?
That all depends on way to many factors. You'll have to read the whole article to get a better understanding. Hopefully Buster will post it here, he posted it not to long ago.
Thanks. Now that Walmart is selling 0w40 in the jugs I wanted to try it out on my 2 Highway oil burners. Hoping the 40 weight can help there but keep the 0 for starts, warmups, etc.
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: volk06
Availability is a issue for some people. 10w30 is usually a more stable oil with less NOACK. Buster posted a article about having a small bit more varnish when using 0w oils due to the VII in the oil.
So all the thin oil 0w20 users will varnish up over time?
Mobil has shown evidence that its 0w-40 product actually removes varnish (they had/have pictures on their website). It is possible (but expensive) to formulate a 0w-xx oil that will effectively ward off deposit formation, have a low NOACK and high flash point, and also be additized enough that it can clean up the deposits left behind by other oils.
I mentioned this, and a few other points in the thread that was referenced earlier. M1 0w-40 has a higher flash point than many oils with a narrower visc spread, and a lower NOACK than many 15w-40's.
It all comes down to how much you want to spend on the product. Mobil has invested heavily in their 0w-40 and it shows.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Availability is a issue for some people. 10w30 is usually a more stable oil with less NOACK. Buster posted a article about having a small bit more varnish when using 0w oils due to the VII in the oil.
So all the thin oil 0w20 users will varnish up over time?
Mobil has shown evidence that its 0w-40 product actually removes varnish (they had/have pictures on their website). It is possible (but expensive) to formulate a 0w-xx oil that will effectively ward off deposit formation, have a low NOACK and high flash point, and also be additized enough that it can clean up the deposits left behind by other oils.
I mentioned this, and a few other points in the thread that was referenced earlier. M1 0w-40 has a higher flash point than many oils with a narrower visc spread, and a lower NOACK than many 15w-40's.
It all comes down to how much you want to spend on the product. Mobil has invested heavily in their 0w-40 and it shows.
0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 are all a straight 30 weight above 32 degrees. Go with what makes you feel good inside.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
It is possible (but expensive) to formulate a 0w-xx oil that will effectively ward off deposit formation, have a low NOACK and high flash point, and also be additized enough that it can clean up the deposits left behind by other oils.
I mentioned this, and a few other points in the thread that was referenced earlier. M1 0w-40 has a higher flash point than many oils with a narrower visc spread, and a lower NOACK than many 15w-40's.
This acronym is the answer to the thread... NOACK.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2926549
It is possible (but expensive) to formulate a 0w-xx oil that will effectively ward off deposit formation, have a low NOACK and high flash point, and also be additized enough that it can clean up the deposits left behind by other oils.
I mentioned this, and a few other points in the thread that was referenced earlier. M1 0w-40 has a higher flash point than many oils with a narrower visc spread, and a lower NOACK than many 15w-40's.
This acronym is the answer to the thread... NOACK.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2926549
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: grndslm
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
It is possible (but expensive) to formulate a 0w-xx oil that will effectively ward off deposit formation, have a low NOACK and high flash point, and also be additized enough that it can clean up the deposits left behind by other oils.
I mentioned this, and a few other points in the thread that was referenced earlier. M1 0w-40 has a higher flash point than many oils with a narrower visc spread, and a lower NOACK than many 15w-40's.
This acronym is the answer to the thread... NOACK.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2926549
That link was posted in the THIRD post in this thread dude......
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
It is possible (but expensive) to formulate a 0w-xx oil that will effectively ward off deposit formation, have a low NOACK and high flash point, and also be additized enough that it can clean up the deposits left behind by other oils.
I mentioned this, and a few other points in the thread that was referenced earlier. M1 0w-40 has a higher flash point than many oils with a narrower visc spread, and a lower NOACK than many 15w-40's.
This acronym is the answer to the thread... NOACK.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2926549
That link was posted in the THIRD post in this thread dude......
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 are all a straight 30 weight above 32 degrees.
0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 are all a straight 30 weight above 32 degrees.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 are all a straight 30 weight above 32 degrees. Go with what makes you feel good inside.
That statement is not correct. They are all a 30 weight at operating temperature.
This is also not entirely correct. They all fall within 10 - 12 cst at 100 degrees celcius. There can be much variation at 150 degrees, which also falls within the realm of "operating temperature." Many 0w- and 5w- 30s have HTHS of
I have used Mobil 1 AFE 0w30, and Mobil 1 5w30 in my turbo Subaru, and I believe these oils caused a problem. I would never use either oil again in my car. German Castrol 0w30, on the other hand, is quite stout, and I would have no problem running this in my Subaru. I would have no problem running M1 AFE 0w30 in my wife's Honda, or even 0w20 in our short trip civic in the winter.
After getting my Subaru motor rebuilt, I have been running Brad Penn 10w30 during the winter months, and will run Brad Penn 10w40 through spring and summer until I switch to a full synthetic.
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 are all a straight 30 weight above 32 degrees. Go with what makes you feel good inside.
That statement is not correct. They are all a 30 weight at operating temperature.
This is also not entirely correct. They all fall within 10 - 12 cst at 100 degrees celcius. There can be much variation at 150 degrees, which also falls within the realm of "operating temperature." Many 0w- and 5w- 30s have HTHS of
I have used Mobil 1 AFE 0w30, and Mobil 1 5w30 in my turbo Subaru, and I believe these oils caused a problem. I would never use either oil again in my car. German Castrol 0w30, on the other hand, is quite stout, and I would have no problem running this in my Subaru. I would have no problem running M1 AFE 0w30 in my wife's Honda, or even 0w20 in our short trip civic in the winter.
After getting my Subaru motor rebuilt, I have been running Brad Penn 10w30 during the winter months, and will run Brad Penn 10w40 through spring and summer until I switch to a full synthetic.
Originally Posted By: 05foresterXT
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 are all a straight 30 weight above 32 degrees. Go with what makes you feel good inside.
That statement is not correct. They are all a 30 weight at operating temperature.
This is also not entirely correct. They all fall within 10 - 12 cst at 100 degrees celcius. There can be much variation at 150 degrees, which also falls within the realm of "operating temperature." Many 0w- and 5w- 30s have HTHS of
I have used Mobil 1 AFE 0w30, and Mobil 1 5w30 in my turbo Subaru, and I believe these oils caused a problem. I would never use either oil again in my car. German Castrol 0w30, on the other hand, is quite stout, and I would have no problem running this in my Subaru. I would have no problem running M1 AFE 0w30 in my wife's Honda, or even 0w20 in our short trip civic in the winter.
After getting my Subaru motor rebuilt, I have been running Brad Penn 10w30 during the winter months, and will run Brad Penn 10w40 through spring and summer until I switch to a full synthetic.
Nit Picky eh? So explain to me how these oils are not all a 30 weight oil at "operating temperature." Operating temperature = 100C per the test requirements. I dont know many engines that have an operating temperature of 150C or 302F. This conversation was not about HTHS but rather the oil weight, which, anyone knowledgeable knows that the HTHS is one of the factors that actually determines the actual thickness. Most people don't even care what the HTHS of their oils are. I also don't understand how you think M1 5w30 damaged your engine when it meets the strict HTO-06 spec from honda which stands for High Temperature Operation, which if you haven't you should look up that spec and the testing.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 are all a straight 30 weight above 32 degrees. Go with what makes you feel good inside.
That statement is not correct. They are all a 30 weight at operating temperature.
This is also not entirely correct. They all fall within 10 - 12 cst at 100 degrees celcius. There can be much variation at 150 degrees, which also falls within the realm of "operating temperature." Many 0w- and 5w- 30s have HTHS of
I have used Mobil 1 AFE 0w30, and Mobil 1 5w30 in my turbo Subaru, and I believe these oils caused a problem. I would never use either oil again in my car. German Castrol 0w30, on the other hand, is quite stout, and I would have no problem running this in my Subaru. I would have no problem running M1 AFE 0w30 in my wife's Honda, or even 0w20 in our short trip civic in the winter.
After getting my Subaru motor rebuilt, I have been running Brad Penn 10w30 during the winter months, and will run Brad Penn 10w40 through spring and summer until I switch to a full synthetic.
Nit Picky eh? So explain to me how these oils are not all a 30 weight oil at "operating temperature." Operating temperature = 100C per the test requirements. I dont know many engines that have an operating temperature of 150C or 302F. This conversation was not about HTHS but rather the oil weight, which, anyone knowledgeable knows that the HTHS is one of the factors that actually determines the actual thickness. Most people don't even care what the HTHS of their oils are. I also don't understand how you think M1 5w30 damaged your engine when it meets the strict HTO-06 spec from honda which stands for High Temperature Operation, which if you haven't you should look up that spec and the testing.
Originally Posted By: 05foresterXT
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 are all a straight 30 weight above 32 degrees. Go with what makes you feel good inside.
That statement is not correct. They are all a 30 weight at operating temperature.
This is also not entirely correct. They all fall within 10 - 12 cst at 100 degrees celcius. There can be much variation at 150 degrees, which also falls within the realm of "operating temperature." Many 0w- and 5w- 30s have HTHS of
I have used Mobil 1 AFE 0w30, and Mobil 1 5w30 in my turbo Subaru, and I believe these oils caused a problem. I would never use either oil again in my car. German Castrol 0w30, on the other hand, is quite stout, and I would have no problem running this in my Subaru. I would have no problem running M1 AFE 0w30 in my wife's Honda, or even 0w20 in our short trip civic in the winter.
After getting my Subaru motor rebuilt, I have been running Brad Penn 10w30 during the winter months, and will run Brad Penn 10w40 through spring and summer until I switch to a full synthetic.
I have never heard of any quality oil causing engine problems. What happened with the engine?
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 are all a straight 30 weight above 32 degrees. Go with what makes you feel good inside.
That statement is not correct. They are all a 30 weight at operating temperature.
This is also not entirely correct. They all fall within 10 - 12 cst at 100 degrees celcius. There can be much variation at 150 degrees, which also falls within the realm of "operating temperature." Many 0w- and 5w- 30s have HTHS of
I have used Mobil 1 AFE 0w30, and Mobil 1 5w30 in my turbo Subaru, and I believe these oils caused a problem. I would never use either oil again in my car. German Castrol 0w30, on the other hand, is quite stout, and I would have no problem running this in my Subaru. I would have no problem running M1 AFE 0w30 in my wife's Honda, or even 0w20 in our short trip civic in the winter.
After getting my Subaru motor rebuilt, I have been running Brad Penn 10w30 during the winter months, and will run Brad Penn 10w40 through spring and summer until I switch to a full synthetic.
I have never heard of any quality oil causing engine problems. What happened with the engine?
10w30 is much cheaper if you live somewhere it doesn't get cold. My Kia's owner's manual says it's allowed over 0F. Around here it doesn't get below 70 during June, July and August, so 10w30 seems like a perfectly reasonable choice.
That being said I run 5w20 because it's also allowed and it seems to lead to less cold startup clatter in the cooler months.
That being said I run 5w20 because it's also allowed and it seems to lead to less cold startup clatter in the cooler months.
(I'm the OP)
So basically, 10w30 still has the best oxidative and thermal stability? And also may prove helpful for turbocharged cars (like mine)?
If you're going with low OCIs (3-5k) does that still matter? Does it outweigh the benefit decreased cold engine startup?
So basically, 10w30 still has the best oxidative and thermal stability? And also may prove helpful for turbocharged cars (like mine)?
If you're going with low OCIs (3-5k) does that still matter? Does it outweigh the benefit decreased cold engine startup?
Originally Posted By: kyoo
Any ideas on this? Recently went back through the BITOG motor oil university, and I can't think of a single reason, if the only difference between two oils was that one was 0w-30 and the other was 10w-30, why you would go with that 10w-30 oil? Thoughts?
First welcome to BITOG!
You're correct there is no reason not to use a 0W-30 if your engine is spec'd for a 30wt oil. The 10W-30 grade is largely redundant particularly in a synthetic oil and has been replaced by the 5W-30 grade.
The problem with the 0W-30 grade is that there is not much choice in an OTC oil. What is readily available and would be the most suitable oil for your application would be M1 AFE 0W-30.
Any ideas on this? Recently went back through the BITOG motor oil university, and I can't think of a single reason, if the only difference between two oils was that one was 0w-30 and the other was 10w-30, why you would go with that 10w-30 oil? Thoughts?
First welcome to BITOG!
You're correct there is no reason not to use a 0W-30 if your engine is spec'd for a 30wt oil. The 10W-30 grade is largely redundant particularly in a synthetic oil and has been replaced by the 5W-30 grade.
The problem with the 0W-30 grade is that there is not much choice in an OTC oil. What is readily available and would be the most suitable oil for your application would be M1 AFE 0W-30.
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