I've got a 1970 Chevelle SS 396 and it has been in storage since last November. It had fresh Brad Penn 20W50 in it at this time last year just before it came out for the '09 season. My questions are: (1)Is it best to change the oil now before I start it? (2)Since the oil has only approx 1500mi on it, does it even need to be changed? It is still very clean green!
Is it time to change my oil?
- Thread starter TRI_SS
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1) No
2) No
2) No
You should change the oil before you put it in storage. One change per year min, eveb if low usage
If it has been in storage that has not been heated I would start it, get the oil warm and look at it. If it has a milky appearance I would then dump it as it probably has a lot of moisture in it from condensation and that is the fast way of getting rid of it.
I noticed that my vehicles here had a ton of built up moisture in them this winter.
I noticed that my vehicles here had a ton of built up moisture in them this winter.
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
If it has been in storage that has not been heated I would start it, get the oil warm and look at it. If it has a milky appearance I would then dump it as it probably has a lot of moisture in it from condensation and that is the fast way of getting rid of it.
I noticed that my vehicles here had a ton of built up moisture in them this winter.
Or he could take it for a drive and heat up the oil which will burn off the water.
If it has been in storage that has not been heated I would start it, get the oil warm and look at it. If it has a milky appearance I would then dump it as it probably has a lot of moisture in it from condensation and that is the fast way of getting rid of it.
I noticed that my vehicles here had a ton of built up moisture in them this winter.
Or he could take it for a drive and heat up the oil which will burn off the water.
Originally Posted By: TRI_SS
I've got a 1970 Chevelle SS 396 and it has been in storage since last November. It had fresh Brad Penn 20W50 in it at this time last year just before it came out for the '09 season. My questions are: (1)Is it best to change the oil now before I start it? (2)Since the oil has only approx 1500mi on it, does it even need to be changed? It is still very clean green!
1) This question is straightforward... warm the car up first as you normally would. 20w50 is like glue cold.
2) This one is not so straightforward... I have low use cars like yours and have been sucked into the once per year thing too (I do a Fall change). However I have left lots of these cars more than one year, some as long as 4 and never had trouble. I personally would feel ok with an every 2 year interval assuming the car is fully warmed up everytime you drive it and you don't do the "idle it for 15 minutes every 2 weeks over the winter" thing.
You didn't ask this but... why 20w50? I have loose (by design) engines on some of my cars (.0055" piston, .0025"-.0028" rod and main) and never run these thick oils. They are hard on timing chains, distributor gears and eat power (and fuel). The most I go is a Xw40. Not a big deal... just curious what or who made you settle on the heavy oils? It's not going to kill anything with your low usage and, I presume, fair weather driving anyway. I also am not big on the 20 on the cold end... but again... not a big deal and, afterall, I am guilty of running straight 30 sometimes which is worse for starts.
Nice car btw... is it an L34 or L78 car?
I've got a 1970 Chevelle SS 396 and it has been in storage since last November. It had fresh Brad Penn 20W50 in it at this time last year just before it came out for the '09 season. My questions are: (1)Is it best to change the oil now before I start it? (2)Since the oil has only approx 1500mi on it, does it even need to be changed? It is still very clean green!
1) This question is straightforward... warm the car up first as you normally would. 20w50 is like glue cold.
2) This one is not so straightforward... I have low use cars like yours and have been sucked into the once per year thing too (I do a Fall change). However I have left lots of these cars more than one year, some as long as 4 and never had trouble. I personally would feel ok with an every 2 year interval assuming the car is fully warmed up everytime you drive it and you don't do the "idle it for 15 minutes every 2 weeks over the winter" thing.
You didn't ask this but... why 20w50? I have loose (by design) engines on some of my cars (.0055" piston, .0025"-.0028" rod and main) and never run these thick oils. They are hard on timing chains, distributor gears and eat power (and fuel). The most I go is a Xw40. Not a big deal... just curious what or who made you settle on the heavy oils? It's not going to kill anything with your low usage and, I presume, fair weather driving anyway. I also am not big on the 20 on the cold end... but again... not a big deal and, afterall, I am guilty of running straight 30 sometimes which is worse for starts.
Nice car btw... is it an L34 or L78 car?
Thanks for the replies.
The car is an L34, all original survivor car, painted once and recently had the 396 rebuilt (3000mi ago).
The car is in a heated garage over the winter, so moisture is not really a concern. I never start it over the winter, only disconnect the battery and cover it up. I usually change the oil and filter at the end of the season but didn't get around to it this time. I pulled it out of the garage this afternoon to change the oil on my TBSS and upon checking the stick noticed the oil was not as clean as I thought. I think I will change it anyway,only because it's been in there a year.
As far as the wieght, I've used it for years and never really thought to use anything else. I joined this forum to investigate other possibilities though. I am open to suggestions anyone might have.
My TBSS uses M1 5W30 as recommended my GM4718M. My understanding is that there aren't many options for oil in this vehicle to meet the standard. Is this correct? My OLM shows about 8000kms at 10% remaining more or less every time. From what I've read here, M1 is capable of that mileage and more. Any suggestions on an alternate oil?
The car is an L34, all original survivor car, painted once and recently had the 396 rebuilt (3000mi ago).
The car is in a heated garage over the winter, so moisture is not really a concern. I never start it over the winter, only disconnect the battery and cover it up. I usually change the oil and filter at the end of the season but didn't get around to it this time. I pulled it out of the garage this afternoon to change the oil on my TBSS and upon checking the stick noticed the oil was not as clean as I thought. I think I will change it anyway,only because it's been in there a year.
As far as the wieght, I've used it for years and never really thought to use anything else. I joined this forum to investigate other possibilities though. I am open to suggestions anyone might have.
My TBSS uses M1 5W30 as recommended my GM4718M. My understanding is that there aren't many options for oil in this vehicle to meet the standard. Is this correct? My OLM shows about 8000kms at 10% remaining more or less every time. From what I've read here, M1 is capable of that mileage and more. Any suggestions on an alternate oil?
Originally Posted By: TRI_SS
The car is an L34, all original survivor car, painted once and recently had the 396 rebuilt (3000mi ago).
Sounds nice! What color? Automatic or 4 speed? Cowl induction?
The car is an L34, all original survivor car, painted once and recently had the 396 rebuilt (3000mi ago).
Sounds nice! What color? Automatic or 4 speed? Cowl induction?
Its Forest Green, Dark Green Top, white stripes, Saddle (beige) interior, 4-speed, cowl hood.
Go here for a look see: http://ssregistry.macswebs.com/1970/136370a_114xxx.htm
I think I will go back to a Brad Penn 10w40 rather than the heavier 20w50. The car runs fairly cool at max. 180 degrees and of course only on warm sunny days! Is there much difference between the 40 and 50 weights?
I will be getting an anaysis doon soon and will post the results for comment.
Go here for a look see: http://ssregistry.macswebs.com/1970/136370a_114xxx.htm
I think I will go back to a Brad Penn 10w40 rather than the heavier 20w50. The car runs fairly cool at max. 180 degrees and of course only on warm sunny days! Is there much difference between the 40 and 50 weights?
I will be getting an anaysis doon soon and will post the results for comment.
Originally Posted By: TRI_SS
Its Forest Green, Dark Green Top, white stripes, Saddle (beige) interior, 4-speed, cowl hood.
Go here for a look see: http://ssregistry.macswebs.com/1970/136370a_114xxx.htm
I think I will go back to a Brad Penn 10w40 rather than the heavier 20w50. The car runs fairly cool at max. 180 degrees and of course only on warm sunny days! Is there much difference between the 40 and 50 weights?
I will be getting an anaysis doon soon and will post the results for comment.
Nice car! I definitely support the 10w40 decision over the 20w50 for sure.
Its Forest Green, Dark Green Top, white stripes, Saddle (beige) interior, 4-speed, cowl hood.
Go here for a look see: http://ssregistry.macswebs.com/1970/136370a_114xxx.htm
I think I will go back to a Brad Penn 10w40 rather than the heavier 20w50. The car runs fairly cool at max. 180 degrees and of course only on warm sunny days! Is there much difference between the 40 and 50 weights?
I will be getting an anaysis doon soon and will post the results for comment.
Nice car! I definitely support the 10w40 decision over the 20w50 for sure.
I changed the oil and filter today with only 650 miles on the oil, but it was a year old to the day. I filled with Brad Penn 10W40 Semi-Syn High Perf oil. The engine seems to run smoother. Maybe it's just me.
Any thoughts on Brad Penn oils?
Any thoughts on Brad Penn oils?
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