Is a AT bypass filter worth it?

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I don't think that a bypass setup is worth it for ATF(or even oil in most situations). Its tough to way the cost/benefit vs. using a quality synth with reasonal drain intervals.
Heat is more of an issue. Since your not in a desert area and I hope that you won't be towing, the stock cooling setup should be sufficient especially using a quality synth (or even OEM ATF).

Do regular drain/refills(every 6 months). Use Amsoil universal or Redline D4 ATF.
Pick a quality synth motor oil too. Don't forget the PS fluid. It can be siphoned/refilled during normal maintenance. Brake should be bled yearly. If you do the maintenance yourself, speedbleeder are a good investment.

I expect the Echo to last a long time.
 
Thanks for the advice. I am not familier with speedbleeder. Does it allow you to replace entire brake fluid without someone pumping the brake pedal? Maybe someone is needed to refill the master cylinder while another is using the speedbleeder to flush out old brake fluid? Is this the idea?
 
I just bought a 2003 Toyota Echo, a subcompact, to drive to work dialy. I will put about 16~18K miles per year on the engine. I intend to keep it as long as possible. Is an AT bypass filter based on TP worth it? Does it eliminate the need to flush the AT fluid or clean the pan? How often is TP replacement? What brand of synthetic AT fluid would you recommend?
 
quote:

Originally posted by sifan:
-*- Is an AT bypass filter based on TP worth it? Does it eliminate the need to flush the AT fluid or clean the pan? -*-

I'll disagree and say YES it is worth it. They do prolong the life of the parts, but there is the issue of the cost and more important the potential for something to go wrong.

The best thing if you will do the filter, the very best thing you can do for the auto transmission is to PUT a COOLER with a temp control on it... yes the transmission has most likely a cooler, but another cooler maybe with a fan on it... I know one guy that has on on an old car and he has never changed the fluid and the car is I think in the 50's, I donno what it is sorry, but it looks like a boat.
 
quote:

Originally posted by unDummy:
-*-*-*
Do regular drain/refills(every 6 months).-*-*
Don't forget the PS fluid. *-*-. Brake should be bled yearly. If you do the maintenance yourself, speedbleeder are a good investment.


Yes, the speed bleeder would be a good investment, they have several to choose from. All the fluids Brake/ PS and Trannnnnny every year.
There is no real need to do the trannnnny more than that, if so then he might as well get the cooler/filter you say no to... Anyhow, his user manual will tell him if he is within the milage, and I know on the trucks it's like 30K so his milage is WELL save to do every year.
As far as the transmission, just use a GOOD name brand fluid, Syn here is not going to be any major benefit to you the end user unless you have a specific need. Now if it was a STICK, I'd say in most cases yes a SYN is sure the way to go over a Dino, and the engine well this is a big cite, just relax and enjoy.
 
Thanks to all for your advices.

I guess I will not consider installing the AT bypass filter since I am not living in an environment that requires AT cooler. However, this discussion brings up the speedbleeder device which I will definitely install to all my cars to bleed/flush the brake fluid. This simple and inexpensive bleeders can help me save money on car maintenance in the long run.
 
The ATF bypass filter is about 30 bucks and a small price to pay for the added insurance.

My car's transmission doesn't have a replaceable filter in it. All it supposed to have is a couple of mesh screens.

Well, my torque convertor crapped out and sent bits of bearing material into my transmission which eventually damaged it. The magnetic plug could only hold so much. Had I installed an inline filter earlier, I would not be out as much money as I am now for a rebuid with a new torque convertor.

As for coolers. EVERY AT transmission should install an aftermarket cooler on their vehicle. The 30-50 bucks will reduce temps and extend your transmission's life. Its a fact. In fact, my new rebuilt transmission (and others) require that an aftermarket cooler be installed with the installation in order for the warranty to be honored.

Partial fluid changes every 2 years or every 25k with a good quality synthetic is also a good idea. Don't wait until you rack up 50-60k to change your fluid.

This was my first AT transmission removal and installation. It was a PITA and I hope to never do it again.
 
sifan,

If your Toyota's transmission uses Toyota Type T-IV ATF, you can only use Toyota's ATF. Amsoil ATF is not qualified as Toyota T-IV, but Amsoil says that it works. No other ATF, petro or synthetic, qualifies. You can try Schaeffer, Mobil 1, or Redline Dexron III ATF plus Lubegard black bottle supplement, but if you have a transmission problem, "forget" that you ever put anything except T-IV in there.

An in-line filter (Drew's $20-$30 filter) can be added to a cooler hose and will be a help at extending transmission life. I'm not sure about the value in a bypass filter--generally, Toyota's transmissions are long lived unless overworked. Maybe every other oil change, or at least every 30,000 mile service, draining the transmission sump and replacing that much ATF is a very wise idea.


Ken
 
Ken,

Removing the AT pan only allows part of AT fluid to drain out. Most of fluid remains in the torque converter. Without the complete AT flush, just by replenishing the amount of AT fluid being drained is sufficent to maintain the AT?

Simon
 
An Amsoil Dealer I know has a by-pass setup on his 01 powerstroke, the transmission oil has over 100,000 miles on it and is still going strong.

I would think that anything that will keep the oil cleaner will reduce wear, and let the oil do it's job. Also note that water/moisture can affect the life of an ATF so if you use a by-pass that can remove moisture you will be adding to the life of the oil.

Though I do agree, heat is the #1 killer of transmissions/ATF's.
 
From my understanding the installation of an AT by pass filter has to be associated with a AT cooler. Is this true? My car does not come with an AT cooler. How do you install an AT cooler?
 
quote:

Originally posted by sifan:
From my understanding the installation of an AT by pass filter has to be associated with a AT cooler. Is this true? My car does not come with an AT cooler. How do you install an AT cooler?

No mandatory association. Either/or/both/neither/fullflow is your choice.
Most cars have AT coolers that are integrated with the radiator.

[ November 05, 2003, 06:58 PM: Message edited by: unDummy ]
 
Can't imagine NOT putting auxiliary filtration/coolers on a keeper car.

As to relation of trans cooler/filter:

1] On a car with fewer than 5k, filter shold go ahead of all coolers.

2] With more miles, AFTER all coolers.

Coolers tend to collect some gunk in them. Important that they be flushed at some point in time (beyond fluid changes).

RACOR has an especially fine trans filter set-up, and I imagine that its dual inlet/outlet mount could be modified for a bypass set-up.

Just search RalphPWood's posts on this site for some ideas how to set-up bypass filters.

[ November 06, 2003, 11:57 AM: Message edited by: TheTanSedan ]
 
unDummy - I think you are right about the intergration of AT cooler into the radiator. Yesterday I looked into the factory repair manual and saw a digram showing two tubes going from automatic transaxle to radiator.
 
Some cars stress the transmissions, others don't. It depends on the driver and vehicle make.
I would assume that if the car is a keeper, then the owner won't beat the snot out of it. So, a cooler isn't really needed, especially if reasonable fluid changes and synthetics are being used.

I have 'keeper' cars with automatics without coolers. I don't tow and I usually don't drive aggressively. Most of my cars go 250k+ miles without any issues. I've also installed coolers on cars that need new transmissions are 30k miles.
Teenager neutral drops will roast a transmission regardless of fluid/cooler/make/model/maintenance.... so will a defective solenoid or other factory defect.
Heat is taking a step back to allow other causes of failure to enjoy the future spotlight.

Replenishing the ATF every 6 months/10k miles is plenty and will provide a extremely long life for a typical automatic. Its also simple and cost effective if the vehicle has a drainplug.
 
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