Originally Posted By: addyguy
You could mix it 50/50 with M1 0W-20 or 5W-20...gets you a 30-weight.
Do oils really work like that?
You could mix it 50/50 with M1 0W-20 or 5W-20...gets you a 30-weight.
Do oils really work like that?
Is 15W-50 M1 EP too thick to use?
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Originally Posted By: peterdes
Originally Posted By: addyguy
You could mix it 50/50 with M1 0W-20 or 5W-20...gets you a 30-weight.
Do oils really work like that?
There are viscosity calculators that you plug in some required info, found on spec sheets and it will give you the viscosities of the end product.
Here's one: I think there are others too.
http://www.rohmax.com/rohmax/en/customerservices/calculationtools/baseoilmixtures/
HTH
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Originally Posted By: addyguy
You could mix it 50/50 with M1 0W-20 or 5W-20...gets you a 30-weight.
Do oils really work like that?
There are viscosity calculators that you plug in some required info, found on spec sheets and it will give you the viscosities of the end product.
Here's one: I think there are others too.
http://www.rohmax.com/rohmax/en/customerservices/calculationtools/baseoilmixtures/
HTH
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Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Go for it. If you were Aussie, this wouldn't even be an issue. I bet the Accord V6 is spec'd for heavier oil down under...
+1 . just do the 50 weight esp since you are in texas. (my opinion only and i am a layman)
Go for it. If you were Aussie, this wouldn't even be an issue. I bet the Accord V6 is spec'd for heavier oil down under...
+1 . just do the 50 weight esp since you are in texas. (my opinion only and i am a layman)
Ran it once in a 97 Honda Civic that was speced for 5W30...it hated that oil.
Most here are clueless. If 15W50 causes 'start up wear' how come my Mazda turbo 626 runs better than when purchased with 270,000kms on it and most of it's life on 25W70, the rest on 20W50.It will still be fine at 400,000 kms even though now on super thin 5W40.
Startup wear is worse for people in colder climates running soccer mom driving styles. A car that is started and driven 50 miles on the highway, even in extreme heat or extreme cold, then turned off and the drive repeated in the opposite direction is going to run well and live a long life on just about any oil. Take that same car and use it 9-5 in NY, then weekend soccer mom chores and I'm willing to bet it its life will be reduced by 2/3 or more.
In the NY example, I'd want something in the 0W-xx flavor. JMO
In the NY example, I'd want something in the 0W-xx flavor. JMO
Thick oil can make an old engine sound like new, for when you want to sell the car.
Originally Posted By: oilyriser
Thick oil can make an old engine sound like new, for when you want to sell the car.
It sure can, especially with a qt of Lucas Oil stabilizer added.
Thick oil can make an old engine sound like new, for when you want to sell the car.
It sure can, especially with a qt of Lucas Oil stabilizer added.
Originally Posted By: deven
He bought the car new and according to him he's always used M1 15w50 after he draind the factory fill.....Hey its working for him and we are creatures of habit and habits are hard to change. Oh well.
Well, I wouldn't do it, but it's working for him, I guess.
I've been told by mechanic friends that I trust about how they've seen newer engines tore up from too thick of oil but I dunno. I use the recommended weight, myself.
He bought the car new and according to him he's always used M1 15w50 after he draind the factory fill.....Hey its working for him and we are creatures of habit and habits are hard to change. Oh well.
Well, I wouldn't do it, but it's working for him, I guess.
I've been told by mechanic friends that I trust about how they've seen newer engines tore up from too thick of oil but I dunno. I use the recommended weight, myself.
Originally Posted By: oilyriser
Thick oil can make an old engine sound like new, for when you want to sell the car.
This reminds me of when I was driving my (free!) 1971 Dodge Dart and had to run it through the state emissions test. IIRC I put 20W-50 oil in it plus a bottle or two of STP Oil Treatment to boost the viscosity. The resultant mix was probably a straight 2050 weight oil but that old car would pass the test with flying colors, even though it used a quart of oil about every 200 miles or so.
As for the M1 15W-50 in the Honda, I agree it probably will not hurt it but such oil is awfully thick for a Honda unless you are driving in an oven. I do use M1 15W-50 in my '77 Chev 454 pickup but that engine is a totally different scenario than portrayed here.
Thick oil can make an old engine sound like new, for when you want to sell the car.
This reminds me of when I was driving my (free!) 1971 Dodge Dart and had to run it through the state emissions test. IIRC I put 20W-50 oil in it plus a bottle or two of STP Oil Treatment to boost the viscosity. The resultant mix was probably a straight 2050 weight oil but that old car would pass the test with flying colors, even though it used a quart of oil about every 200 miles or so.
As for the M1 15W-50 in the Honda, I agree it probably will not hurt it but such oil is awfully thick for a Honda unless you are driving in an oven. I do use M1 15W-50 in my '77 Chev 454 pickup but that engine is a totally different scenario than portrayed here.
First: someone above said why use/blend this oil with thinner oils. It was dirt cheap.
Below is the data I collected for blending M1 15W-50 EP with two different oils: M1 5W-20 and Synpower 5W-20. Blend viscosity at 100C was defined as 14.0 cST...my engines use thicker oils than most. You choose whatever blend viscosity you want.
Viscosities:
...........M1 15W-50 EP...M1 5W-20.....Synpower 5W-20
100 C.........18.............8.8...........8.65
40 C.........138.............48.3..........48
HTHS.........4.6.............2.62......?, but VI is 160 vs 163 for M1 5W-20
Results:
Ratio (%)....100-X..........33.47.........32.63
Blend 40 C...................95.12.........95.77
Blend HTHS *................3.8............?
Blend VI...................skipped.........150
Notes:
Ratio is to get 14 cst viscosity at 100C
* Calculator does not accept 150C temp nor take into account shear rates so accuracy is unknown
Quarts of each oil to use in two of my engines.
........................GTI.....G35
67% of sump (qts).......3.07....3.34
33% of sump.............1.53....1.67
How much 5W-20 I should buy and cost of blend:
I have 10 qts of M1 15W-50 EP
# of qts. of 5W-20 to buy...4.7952, so 5 qts.
Cost of mix ($ per quart)...$2.49
Link to the blending calculator I used: http://www.rohmax.com/rohmax/en/customerservices/calculationtools/baseoilmixtures/
Below is the data I collected for blending M1 15W-50 EP with two different oils: M1 5W-20 and Synpower 5W-20. Blend viscosity at 100C was defined as 14.0 cST...my engines use thicker oils than most. You choose whatever blend viscosity you want.
Viscosities:
...........M1 15W-50 EP...M1 5W-20.....Synpower 5W-20
100 C.........18.............8.8...........8.65
40 C.........138.............48.3..........48
HTHS.........4.6.............2.62......?, but VI is 160 vs 163 for M1 5W-20
Results:
Ratio (%)....100-X..........33.47.........32.63
Blend 40 C...................95.12.........95.77
Blend HTHS *................3.8............?
Blend VI...................skipped.........150
Notes:
Ratio is to get 14 cst viscosity at 100C
* Calculator does not accept 150C temp nor take into account shear rates so accuracy is unknown
Quarts of each oil to use in two of my engines.
........................GTI.....G35
67% of sump (qts).......3.07....3.34
33% of sump.............1.53....1.67
How much 5W-20 I should buy and cost of blend:
I have 10 qts of M1 15W-50 EP
# of qts. of 5W-20 to buy...4.7952, so 5 qts.
Cost of mix ($ per quart)...$2.49
Link to the blending calculator I used: http://www.rohmax.com/rohmax/en/customerservices/calculationtools/baseoilmixtures/
Originally Posted By: deven
He bought the car new and according to him he's always used M1 15w50 after he draind the factory fill. He is one of those loyal Mobil 1 guys. He could care less what group this oil is and he laughs at me for "wasting" my money on UOA's. This coming from a guy who drains M1 at 3k miles. Hey its working for him and we are creatures of habit and habits are hard to change. Oh well.
Draining Mobil 1 after only 3,000 miles is heresy!
He bought the car new and according to him he's always used M1 15w50 after he draind the factory fill. He is one of those loyal Mobil 1 guys. He could care less what group this oil is and he laughs at me for "wasting" my money on UOA's. This coming from a guy who drains M1 at 3k miles. Hey its working for him and we are creatures of habit and habits are hard to change. Oh well.
Draining Mobil 1 after only 3,000 miles is heresy!
I did it for the first 80K KM on my truck because the warranty required me to drain at no more that 3.5K. It was a waste but at least I know my engine was clean and still within warranty.
you guy`s are willing to use the wrong viscosity oil in your vehicles just because you got it on sale!! or have a stash of it !!...what ever man!
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Startup wear is worse for people in colder climates running soccer mom driving styles. A car that is started and driven 50 miles on the highway, even in extreme heat or extreme cold, then turned off and the drive repeated in the opposite direction is going to run well and live a long life on just about any oil. Take that same car and use it 9-5 in NY, then weekend soccer mom chores and I'm willing to bet it its life will be reduced by 2/3 or more.
In the NY example, I'd want something in the 0W-xx flavor. JMO
Startup wear is worse for people in colder climates running soccer mom driving styles. A car that is started and driven 50 miles on the highway, even in extreme heat or extreme cold, then turned off and the drive repeated in the opposite direction is going to run well and live a long life on just about any oil. Take that same car and use it 9-5 in NY, then weekend soccer mom chores and I'm willing to bet it its life will be reduced by 2/3 or more.
In the NY example, I'd want something in the 0W-xx flavor. JMO
Originally Posted By: Throckmorton
Originally Posted By: deven
He bought the car new and according to him he's always used M1 15w50 after he draind the factory fill. He is one of those loyal Mobil 1 guys. He could care less what group this oil is and he laughs at me for "wasting" my money on UOA's. This coming from a guy who drains M1 at 3k miles. Hey its working for him and we are creatures of habit and habits are hard to change. Oh well.
Draining Mobil 1 after only 3,000 miles is heresy!
Yep, I agree. Its his money and his car. I make fun of him changing it a 3k intervals and he makes fun of me doing UOA's. Nothing like two friends who are stubborn.
Originally Posted By: deven
He bought the car new and according to him he's always used M1 15w50 after he draind the factory fill. He is one of those loyal Mobil 1 guys. He could care less what group this oil is and he laughs at me for "wasting" my money on UOA's. This coming from a guy who drains M1 at 3k miles. Hey its working for him and we are creatures of habit and habits are hard to change. Oh well.
Draining Mobil 1 after only 3,000 miles is heresy!
Yep, I agree. Its his money and his car. I make fun of him changing it a 3k intervals and he makes fun of me doing UOA's. Nothing like two friends who are stubborn.
Originally Posted By: lexus114
you guy`s are willing to use the wrong viscosity oil in your vehicles just because you got it on sale!! or have a stash of it !!...what ever man!
+1 it is on clearance for a reason.
you guy`s are willing to use the wrong viscosity oil in your vehicles just because you got it on sale!! or have a stash of it !!...what ever man!
+1 it is on clearance for a reason.
deven, I see someone has taken the stamp away from you... Thank the lord.
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