But you'll get people who suggest that Pennzoil or Castrol or Quaker State just barely squeak by at the minimum levels in order to meet various requirements or certifications. Or they think that an oil that has 2x the concentration of various ingredients is "better". Whatever happened to the "moly" rage or infatuation here, for example ? People were searching for oils that had the MOST moly, like it made it the holy grail of oils.I buy PQIA approved oil rated SN. I know any WalMart shelf SN rated PQIA oil is a good quality certified oil that meets or exceeds
In addition, motor oil overall is a very small part of HPL's portfolio.BITOG-related sales comprise
I'm currently running Mobil1 in both my vehicles, but am going to switch to HPL next change as a personal experiment. My 93 Isuzu Rodeo has a decent amount of varnish & a valve tick. It has ran on a variety of oils over the years, but have ran Mobil1 FS Euro 5w40 the past 2 oci's. Varnish isn't as dark, & valve tick isn't as loud. I just want to see if HPL will accelerate that process. Even if by a little. Otherwise, I've been impressed with Mobil1 Euro line.5th , I agree with much you said, the Walmart sarcasm aside.
I buy PQIA approved oil rated SN. I know any WalMart shelf SN rated PQIA oil is a good quality certified oil that meets or exceeds
standards.
Remember the VI infatuation, along with the moly? That's what made TGMO "the nectar of the Gods", it was a truly bizarre period.But you'll get people who suggest that Pennzoil or Castrol or Quaker State just barely squeak by at the minimum levels in order to meet various requirements or certifications. Or they think that an oil that has 2x the concentration of various ingredients is "better". Whatever happened to the "moly" rage or infatuation here, for example ? People were searching for oils that had the MOST moly, like it made it the holy grail of oils.
On a related note, one guy that did like "moly" seems to have disappeared (or maybe he's blocked me). He was from TX and had an Accord and an older 300ZX. His avatar was an anime face. Anyone know ?
I feel like the VI infatuation is still going even though it seems to be realistically a non-issue either way.Remember the VI infatuation, along with the moly? That's what made TGMO "the nectar of the Gods", it was a truly bizarre period.
Yeah, though it kind of went the other way. With the TGMO thing, it was about having this "stratospheric" VI, whilst more recently, folks have been pining after oils with the least amount of VII, hence HPL's "no-VII" series.I feel like the VI infatuation is still going even though it seems to be realistically a non-issue either way.
Probably a wrong thread to ask but exactly does VI and VII do? In my book it's a Roman numeral 6 and 7.Yeah, though it kind of went the other way. With the TGMO thing, it was about having this "stratospheric" VI, whilst more recently, folks have been pining after oils with the least amount of VII, hence HPL's "no-VII" series.
A PQIA virgin oil analysis doesn’t tell you anything about an oil’s suitability for a given application. That’s what certifications and specifications are for. And SN has been obsolete for several years now, replaced with API SP.5th , I agree with much you said, the Walmart sarcasm aside.
I buy PQIA approved oil rated SN. I know any WalMart shelf SN rated PQIA oil is a good quality certified oil that meets or exceeds
standards.
CATERHAM was quite the cat up in that TGMO tree, wasn’t he??Remember the VI infatuation, along with the moly? That's what made TGMO "the nectar of the Gods", it was a truly bizarre period.
VI = viscosity index. The higher the number, the less viscosity change between KV40 and KV100.Probably a wrong thread to ask but exactly does VI and VII do? In my book it's a Roman numeral 6 and 7.
False. Less wear is less wear. Cleaner internals is cleaner internals. Mileage doesn’t have anything to do with it, other than once you stack up a couple OCIs, the difference is more noticeable, and your wallet is lighter due to more frequent changes.I am no fan of ANY oil. Some are probably a little better (I'm talking 5w-30 - one of the more common oils used in "Murica) but that's really going to come down to 2 things. Driving conditions and intervals of les changes.
Per the data (which is not some poster with a bajillion posts TELLING me that HPL is better cause their super slipper base blah blah blah is better (even if they follow it up with smart sounding reasoning) I have come to learn that HPL really is a cut above.
I have also come to learn that unless you have a driving desire to run a LOOOOONNNGGGGG OCI - there is absolutely PROBABLY not enough difference to make a difference in whatever you run. A 5-7k interval, you PROABABLY aren't getting much additional benefit from ANY 5w-30 from the Walsmarts flavor to HPL no VII - which if I'm not mistaken is the biggest shiniest jewel in HPL's crown.
Again - this is all very dependent upon 2 things (3 if you count 'problem child engines', but again, a shorter OCI should really cover that) which are driving conditions (I beat on my 4 cylinder like it's a government mule or I tow a lot) and long intervals.
So - I'll give it it's well deserved accolades. It's great for severe duty or long intervals. It's probably even better at the myth (and this IS NOT HPL's FAULT AS I HAVE NEVER SEEN THEM MAKE THIS CLAIM) that it will turn back the odometer or the clock on your engine. That is a by-product of people claiming sh1$ that they really believe, but probably really isn't happening in reality. I'll probably run a run of it along with some of that super colon blow (HPL engine cleaner) that they sell in another 50-75k miles. I certainly won't run it for 5k-7k miles and put it in the landfill bucket just because it's MARGINALLY better than Mobil 1 etc... 3-4 times a year.
TL;DR
It's great stuff, probably the best of the best, but it's probably not a whole hell of a lot better than AMSOIL or SOPUS unless you beat on your vehicle or change the oil every 20k.
Remember the VI infatuation