If dino is so good why buy Syn?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 7, 2004
Messages
702
Location
Ilinois
I have a small sump (4 quarts) and thought syn would be a good choice for my application (99 Jeep wrangler 2.5L) I have the "treat my jeep better than myself" sickness going on and want whats best for my jeep.
I thought Syn would give me better wear numbers, keep my engine cleaner, and extend the life of my jeep that sees 99% on road use and close to 14k a year with 75% of that being a 15 mile commute to and from work at an average speed of 45mph. I live in chicago so winters can be below zero for a few days a year but average somewhere in the 30's.
Am I ******* my money away using syn? Is there any advantage besides the extended drain interval? because I don't mind changing my oil one bit. Would 4 quarts of 5w30 supertech oil with a supertech filter with a 3k change interval be just as good as 4 quarts of German Castrol and a napa gold filter with a 7=10k OCI?
 
More and more people will be asking that question. Well supertech has a pretty weak additive package. You would be better of with Motorcraft, Castrol, Pennzoil, Chevron Supreme, etc.
 
Even better, how about Pennz/Chev/Hav/Troparctic/Motorcraft 5W30 changed every 5,000 miles? With your relatively easy driving pattern you'd be GOLDEN.
 
True, True. VERY cold starting that is.

I had a '92 cavalier in Northern Michigan running 5w30 conventional...that bad boy fired up no problem in subzero temps. Except that time I left the dome light on for three days.

Sure the wear was probably 'high', but I reckon that in most places cold enough to cause problems for your engine, the salt will get you first
mad.gif
 
For the most part a 3,000 OCI with SuperTech 5w30 and a Super Tech filter will serve you well. It is API certified as well as SL or SM rated. 5w30 can handle Chicago's weather.
 
Don't know, it might be piece of mind in using synthetic oil what one feels comfortable using. But must say the synthetic blends are very cost attractive in performance and in real world testing.
 
The only reason I could justify a full synthetic is for cold starts in bitter cold weather. Kentucky is sort of on the border with our winters. We do see about 4 months of cold weather but it usually doesn't dip below zero F very often. Motorcraft 5w20 with a -49 F pour point is going to be my winter only oil in the Ranger.
 
wn1998

I think that if you start some used oil analysis you will find that the 2.5 is as much of an iron hog as the 4.0 (there's no reason to think otherwise). The only low iron UOA using anything under a xw-40 in a jeep engine was when the owner used a magnetic drain plug.

Kinda fixing the results, so to speak.

I think you will have higher wear with a xw-30. If you feel you need a better cold weather oil ..that would be where I would say a synthetic would be an option.

Since you don't mind changin oil (I don't think any of us do, as a rule) ..then I would think that you would just use the lighter oil in the severe months of the winter.
 
what about seals? I would a syn be better on the seals or less likely to make a engine leak in general?
 
While I agree the new conventional oils are better, I still wouldn't run a group 1 or 2 oil in a turbocharged car, for example.

My case is simple. 10,000 mile oil changes in my turbo with synthetic. 3000 mile MAX oil changes with dino in my turbo. I'm not getting under the stupid car that much, in the nasty winter. I can't deal with that much used oil. And yes the car has 250000 miles on it.
 
Cold start and GF-4 dino's and syn blend dino's .

One very good SL GF-3 5w30 all group II has a CCS of 6400 @ -30c

The oil that replaces it in SM GF-4 has CCS @ 4500 -30c

I did a freezer test putting these oils in little test tubes with screw caps then did a little home made bench test. Big difference in the two at - 4f with only a 4 point VI index difference which made be want to look at 11 other oils so I did . Might type the results later if anyone is interested .

Dino's are pretty good these days but due to engine design synthetics are not on their way out by no means .

Theres an oil for every engine and how it's used .
 
Ha Ha just found a reason to use syn in my Jeep!

Conventional Oil change
Havoline $1.50 quart
Napa Gold Oil Filter 5.00

Total Change $11
4 changes a year=$44 3k or 3month

Syn
German Castrol $4.00 quart
Napa Gold Oil Filter 5.00

Total change $21
2 changes a year $42.00 6-7k or 6 month

Total savings of using syn $2.00
 
Thing is the dino don't need changed every three months in most cases and they are soon to be 2 bucks a quart most likely .

That Castrol 0w30 price is not everyday pricing either and a price hike over the current 4.99 is surely coming .
 
even with the price hike and if I kept dino in a little longer we are talking a few bucks if that. I just have this "Syn is better" mentality so I guess this works out to not costing me too much more. Maybe I can skip the Mcdonalds breakfest once a year to offset syn vs dino cost.

If I am going to get the same protection as a 4k dino change, better cold weather protection, and the piece of mind of using what I think is "best" I think I will stay with syn. I am also going to be using LC with my German Castrol. So my 6month or 7k change should be fine.
 
wn1998 - You came to the same conclusion I did. I run 5w30 full synthetic the year around with a Purolator Pure One filter. The cost is just a little more than dino but the protection and cold start wear are better. Been doing this since 1993 and have been happy with the results.
 
The main reason I do it is 1) I sleep better at night with the green elixor and the gummi bear fairies protecting my engine
rolleyes.gif
; and 2) less oil changes = less problems for the environment and more oil for everyone.

Okay, I'm just lazy and don't _really_ care about number 2, but the less time under the car, spilling oil on the ground and all that, the better

V
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom