If cost was not a concern?

[demarpaint]

OK so you have a new vehicle that specs 0W-20 and 6 month or 7,500 mile OCI to keep the warranty people happy. Cost not being a factor, given the above requirements and the choice of these two oils only, would Amsoil 0W-20 be that much better than Mobil 1 0W-20? I know for longer drain intervals the Amsoil shines,,,,,,,,,but given the above requirments is there any real world benefits?

Frank D

 

[GROUCHO MARX]

Cost not being a factor, I'd drive a Ferrari.

 

[chevrofreak]

I'm not sure the Amsoil would keep the warranty people happy.

 

[dnewton3]

Would the Amsoil do "that much better" than Mobil?

Either oil is so capable of going past the conditions you've set (6 mo/7.5k miles) that it's moot to discuss.

Frankly, Frank, were is the merit in this question? You've limited the application to warranty criteria, and then locked us into two oils that clearly will not be challenged by the circumstances, and THEN you imply that cost is not an object in the decision?

What's left to debate?

 

[drivewaytech]

Cost not a factor.... Amsoil is a no brainer. My opinion is based off UOA's. Amsoil outshines.

 

[demarpaint]

I guess what's left to debate is would there be any real world differences filling the above requirements?

Frank D

 

[Cup of Joe]

Given your requirements I would use PP and I am using ASM now but for longer then 7500 miles. I've used PP in the past and would again for that length.

 

[demarpaint]

PP is not available in this neck of the woods in the 0W-20.

Frank D

 

[Johnny]

Maybe I should already know this, but what new vehicle specs 0W-20?

 

[demarpaint]

My father is looking into a new Toyota and he went into the shop and was told by the service manager to use 0W-20. I was tossing a lot of BITOG info at him and he shocked the [censored] out of me that he even asked at the dealership. Guess he wants this car around for a while.

Frank D

 

[Cup of Joe]

I prefer the 5w-20 myself in PP. There is a site to order 0w-20 PP from for quite reasonable if it was a must. But it is your money and your choice.

 

[Steve S]

I would say that any oil will allow the engine to live as long as it is going to live. The interval mentioned is not severe for M1 or Amsoil. . My Toyota 2006 is 6 month 5,000 mile oil change interval.

 

[dnewton3]

demarpaint - the only thing left (since we've eliminated the other issues i.e. OCI and cost) is availability. You can walk into any autoparts store and find the Mobil 1. Can't say that about the Amsoil. Not that it's hard to get, but it's not AS easy as the Mobil to get.

Seriously, though, why even worry about this for 6 mo/7.5k miles for either choice? I, for one, don't believe that under those circumstances the Amsoil would have any clear advantage over the Mobil. Only UOA's would tell for sure, and the OCI is so short compared to the two oil's abilities that it's just silly to debate.

Let me make an anology:
You have a finishing nail you want to drive into some door trim. You ask your buddies which framing hammer you should buy; the 23oz wood handled or 22oz fiberglass handled? It doesn't matter because they both are more than capable of doing the job; in fact, they are probably over-qualified. The real question is: do you need such a big hammer in the first place? Do you need a group IV oil when limited to the OCI you've set forth? I say NO!

Buy whichever you feel is better; none of us are going to be able to convince you that one is superior/inferior to the other, because I don't think there is irrefutable evidence to the substantiate any claims.

Or, are you looking for validation of a decision you've already mentally made???

 

[drivewaytech]

If cost is no concern...... If someone is looking for the best oil for their car, which is a question often posed on BITOG, wouldn't a moderate run (4k) on Amsoil or other Grp IV in any driving conditions be the best? Grant it's overkill, but would that be absolute best protection. This scenario probably applies more to areas of warmer climate where salt will not destroy body and frame prematurely. Again this is if cost is of no concern.

 

[demarpaint]

I really haven't made any decision yet, I was helping out my father with this. The answers are exactly what I was looking for, that meaning very helpful. I've read so much good info on this board that it can become confusing and lead to second guessing. Then there's the bad press here about Mobil 1 5w30, it gets you thinking again! Not a lot of UOA's to compare M1 0w-20 to Amsoil 0W-20 so it makes researching that grade a little tougher too.

Reading leads me to believe that Amsoil might just be the best oil, and A-Rx the best additive.

However after reading thru these answers, visiting the Amsoil site, and going through 100's of threads, I think where Amsoil will really shine is when the warranty is over and the OCI's can be extended. However some people have lost interest in their vehicles when the warranty is up and don't care anymore about what's best.

My question cleared thinkings up, and I can pass it along to my father.

Thanks,
Frank D

 

[Steve S]

Originally Posted By: drivewaytech
If cost is no concern...... If someone is looking for the best oil for their car, which is a question often posed on BITOG, wouldn't a moderate run (4k) on Amsoil or other Grp IV in any driving conditions be the best? Grant it's overkill, but would that be absolute best protection. This scenario probably applies more to areas of warmer climate where salt will not destroy body and frame prematurely. Again this is if cost is of no concern.
The absolute best protection ? No really Syn oils advantages are

1)real cold pumping ,do the winters get below 0*f?
2)possible longer mile drain intervals,are the oil change intervals going to be extended?
3) holding up better in high heat operation,is the car going to see track days ,tow ultra heavy loads with the pedal to the metal? I have seen many engines overheated till the valve seats fall out "aluminun heads" and the machine shop straightens the head and repairs the valve seat and the motor is just fine.
Oil keeps the parts seperated ,the additives protect when the oil film is smooshed cam /lifter area for example help with deposits, acid formation carry the heat away and besides the Highly refined GPII+ oils are all an engine needs unless syn oil is recommended by the manufacture for whatever specific reason the mfgs have. Usually syn oil is like having a 20 foot ladder to get you out of a 6 foot hole, a lot of wasted ladder that has no purpose.Study up the Uoas most syn oils are changed too soon .There are no bad uoas with regular oil unless there is a mechanical problem usually a head gasket or a bad sealed filter or its related plumbing. Probably if you want to spend extra Schaffers oil costs less and its dino oil will be over kill and could out perform Amsoil and M1 at half the price.

 

[IntegraVT]

Originally Posted By: Johnny
Maybe I should already know this, but what new vehicle specs 0W-20?


Honda Civic Hybrid 1.3L does for sure, probably a couple of other hybrids call for it as well.