I need help understanding if Redline or Amsoil is worth it.

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tldr: is premium oil really worth premium prices for a daily ricer?

In doing some searching on the forum none of the threads really help me understand if it's worth either brand, just that there's tons of addictive in Redline, and Amsoil isn't really worth it. And this thread: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/am-i-wasting-money-with-amsoil-schaeffers.332678/ kinda makes me think the verdict is still out on "worth".

My car has a turbo direct injection gasoline engine that's open port with an aluminum block. I drive regularly 90% of the time, and beat it somewhat hard 10%. I live in a part of the country that is cold more than hot (PA). In my engine I notice a difference if I use Redline and the highest octane Shell Gas.

Today I switched to Amsoil and it just ... I'm not impressed. I definetly feel a difference but it's not an improvement. The other thing is I hear quite often "oil is just oil, and it's not worth the price". Is that true? I really hammer this car sometimes and want it to last at least 5 years.
 
Personally, I would use Mobile 1 or equivalent quality synthetic instead and put the money you save toward stuff that will be statistically most likely to keep you car on the road the longest. Thinks like transmission service, quality tires, brakes, cooling system maintenance, rust proofing etc. Bad transmissions, accidents, rust and overheating are a lot more likely to put your car in the junkyard than a worn out engine.
 
Here's the short answer. Nope. Just goes to show how marketing can sell almost anything. Maybe if you're going to drive it a million miles, but worn out engines in 5 years are rare if you change the oil regularly.
 
I realize oil is a very personal thing. But I'll never understand the use of expensive brands. Somebody show me proof that they can provide anymore protection than less expensive alternatives. How many UOAs from SuperTech does one need to see that even the least expensive oils do a great job. And even if a boutique oil did provide a negligible amount of additional protection, how many 100s of thousands of miles would it take to even begin to measure that?

I will continue to use readily available M1, Valvoline and Warren products. You can find them on every corner and always on sale. Something will happen the vehicle or to me long before an oil related issue will.

That said.....to each his own
 
Redline in my F250: Yes worth every penny it cost. Best oil I’ve used so far in that motor.
Amsoil in my wife’s Lincoln Turbo: No
Next change will be back to an off the shelf oil.
Yeah the Lincoln has the same type of engine so I'll just get Mobil 1 or whatever.
Tfw talking about using Redline for a Honda accord. Lol
I just don't feel like off the shelf stuff will keep the car going for a while if I beat it sometimes. So many people call direct engine turbo cars nightmares. I never had one before, always a v6.
 
As is the case with lot of things, You get what you pay for.
Specially in today's environment where engine displacement is getting smaller, compression ratio rises, more and more engines are Turbo/GDI which are lot harder on oil compare to past.
So yes, spending more money on a good and Mfg approved oil is worth the money and better for longevity of the engine.
 
Yeah the Lincoln has the same type of engine so I'll just get Mobil 1 or whatever.

I just don't feel like off the shelf stuff will keep the car going for a while if I beat it sometimes. So many people call direct engine turbo cars nightmares. I never had one before, always a v6.
No offense but it's a Honda Accord. Any of the big name off the shelf API/Honda spec oils are going to be fine.
 
Buy the Red Line if it makes you feel better. For sure it will handle extreme temperatures created by a turbo better than most. It will also handle extreme cold temperatures and cold starts better than many. You may be well served just using Mobil 1. You are going to find that most posters on this site strive for the cheapest and longest lasting oil and interval they can get away with. They use BOTH sides of the toilet paper! If you want/need factory approvals but actually want a higher quotient of PAO/POE synthetic in the blend check out Ravenol. Looks like Honda requires a 0W20 with an API starburst only. Semi synthetic is ok.
Here is one of many to look at.
 
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I mean if any of us were being honest about the economics of all this, we’d let Jiffy Lube change our oil and spend our time obsessing about home improvement projects to increase the values of our homes. You might save a few grand over a lifetime being obsessive about car maintenance. You build your own sunroom and deck and remodel your kitchen and bathrooms with your own labor, you did a heck of a lot better with your time financially than those of us using that time to send samples off to Blackstone!
 
Yeah the Lincoln has the same type of engine so I'll just get Mobil 1 or whatever.

I just don't feel like off the shelf stuff will keep the car going for a while if I beat it sometimes. So many people call direct engine turbo cars nightmares. I never had one before, always a v6.
Do you beat your engine like this?

This is part of Porsche oil test. If you are that concerned with oil, get Castrol 0W40 in Wal Mart. Castrol 0W40 has numerous approvals, including Porsche A40. Redline is very application specific oil that doesn’t have ANY approval. It would be good track oil, short OCI oil. For daily driving you want regular oil that is designed for trips to daycare, school, work, occasionally fast drive, even track, like that Castrol. Oils like Redline have their drawbacks, and if you are not tracking your car often, you might end up doing more harm.
 
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