I changed the ATF today (Added Mobil 1).

[Built_Well]

Today I did a drain and refill of my transmission pan's Toyota T-IV, replacing it with Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. 3.7 quarts of red T-IV drained out and I replaced it with 4 quarts of red M1 Synthetic. The extra 1/4 of a quart or 0.30 quarts isn't too much extra, is it? Not enough to cause foaming or windage, right? (Not even sure windage is an issue in automatic transmissions like windage can be with engine oil.)

Anyway, the car really likes the Mobil 1 ATF so far. True only about 50 percent of the car's total ATF capacity is M1. The other 50 percent is still the factory fill of T-IV (now 25,000 miles old and 3.5 years). Maybe it's my imagination, but the car seemed like it was shifting a lot better today with the M1 synthetic in it. Or maybe it's just a result of having some fresh sauce in the car.

I took a sample of the drained T-IV ATF and will mail it to Blackstone Labs tomorrow.

The only thing I didn't much care for during the ATF change was the surprise of finding an Allen wrench socket on the transmission pan's drain plug. It's not a regular bolt, so I wasn't able to use my trusty Craftsman torque wrench to torque the drain plug to 36 foot-pounds. This is an '06 Camry, and unfortunately the Camry service and repair manual I downloaded from CamryStuff.com is for an older 2002 (same 5th generation Camry but the '06 and '05 models are considered Generation 5.5 --they differ slightly from the 2002 to 2004 cars).

So after reading the CamryStuff pdf document, I was expecting to torque a regular drain plug bolt to 36 foot-pounds, but obviously I couldn't with the Allen wrench (ie, hex? wrench) drain plug. Is there some way to properly torque an Allen wrench bolt? Does it take a special adapter fitted to your torque wrench?

I'm concerned I came close to stripping the threads by overtightening with an unmeasured Allen wrench. If I did come dangerously close to stripping the threads, might the pan start leaking sometime in the next few days? Or weeks? Or even months? So far no leaking. Well, I noticed I did have some leaking after the first Allen wrench tightening, so I tightened further, and further again. I think I should have waited for the complete ATF fluid dripping to stop before doing any tightening. The dripping may have lead to my problem of possibly overtightening and coming very close to stripping the threads. I waited for only one drip every 3 seconds, but even that, I think, was too soon to begin tightening.

Anyway, is there some way to check the torque of an Allen wrench drain plug bolt, or to torque an Allen wrench bolt properly in the first place?

 

[AzFireGuy79]

You really shouldnt stress it. I usually just replace the crush washer and hand tighten with a 3/8 drive ratchet. It would take quite a bit of torque to strip those threads ( I own a 2006 camry as well). I have had that plug out like 50 times it seems without one leak. If you can get your hands on some hex bits you can adapt them to your torque wrench if its a 1/2 inch. If its 3/8 it should be no problem. But I never torque them as I believe its not needed.

 

[BimmerMan]

You can buy hex sockets at any auto parts store.

 

[Built_Well]

Well, I dunno. It seemed like that third and last tightening was a bit too easy compared to the first two. That's why I think I may have partially stripped the threads.

I actually stopped after the first tightening, but the drain plug was leaking 15 minutes later when I checked it. So then I may have overdone it with a third twist of the Allen wrench.

No leaking is happening at the moment, but what course of action should I take now if, indeed, the threads are partially stripped?

 

[AzFireGuy79]

If it does not leak, leave it alone. Next time you drain and fill inspect the threads. Get some hex sockets in the meantime so you can torque them to spec if you feel better about doing this. I dont feel its necessary to do so if the threads were ok. Keep an eye on it as far as leaks are concerned.

SK makes a good hex set, although I prefer Snap-On. Toyota had to be difficult and use hex on the transmission plugs. I hardly use my Hex set for much else! Crack a cold one and enjoy until it becomes a problem.

If later it leaks, get a new or used pan and some new crush washers along with a factory pan gasket. The toyota plugs require very little in the way of torque to achieve a good seal.

 

[unDummy]

Drain plug washers are cheap. Should've gotten an allen socket prior to starting the job to torque correctly.

You can get a tapered over sized self tapping replacement drainplug at most autoparts stores.

You might just be lucky. Sometimes the washer will give you the 'feel' of a stripped thread when it really isn't.

Toyota drain plugs are pretty cheap too. You could replace it with a normal hex bolt next time.

 

[Built_Well]

Thanks very much unDummy and AzFireGuy for both your help. I'll buy the hex socket/adapter for my 1/2" torque wrench and the tapered, over-sized, self-tapping drain plug in case anything goes wrong next time I change the ATF.

I forgot to mention that I didn't see or feel any metal shavings in the drained ATF. I wonder if used ATF can cause cancer, like used motor oil is suppose to {heh heh}.

I used a new crush washer/metal gasket yesterday that I got from the dealership for $2.24. It looked identical to the old gasket (Toyota seems to call it a "gasket"--part number 90430-18008).

By the way, I never use the torque wrench for tightening the motor oil drain plug, but I will use it the next time I torque that tricky ATF plug. A novice like myself can't take too many chances. Thanks again

Oh, forgot to mention, that Walmart says they don't take used ATF (just used motor oil and filters), but O'Reilly Auto took the used ATF, and didn't even require me to write down my name on a sheet of paper like Walmart does whenever I give them used motor oil.

 

[unDummy]

Talk about profit margin. Most autopart and hardware stores will have nylon, aluminum, copper, fiber, and rubber coated.... washer/gaskets for drain plugs for ~$1.

http://www.oereplacement.com/partInfo.php?ID=R-3018W

 

[Built_Well]

My dealer charged me $30 for that cabin air filter. Nice to see it's available at OEreplacement for $11.

 

[unDummy]

When it comes to thermostats, pcv valves, belts/hoses, sensors, and some select other parts, I prefer buying directly from the dealer vs questionable quality imported from commieland. They screwed up a $1000 order of OE tuneup parts that I had planned to install on this 3-day weekend. parts.com is a great place for factory parts too.

 

[ravenchris]

Consider an oil extraction pump.

 

[brian12]

You can get a set of hex sockets at walmart for cheap. They are what I've been using. The reason toyota used hex bolts is so people wouldnt mistake them for the oil the drain plug. So how does the car shift with the mobil 1 fluid in it. I used the the last formula and the shifts were pretty firm. I haven't tried the newest formula yet though.