I'm wondering if I can do this without a torque wrench. I saw a video of someone tightening the atf drain plug on a 2004 sienna, and it looked like it was hand tight, and then about 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn with a torque wrench. Is this about how much to turn it, or is doing it like this playing with fire (as in, I really need to buy a torque wrench)? I couldn't find any instructions at all in my 2005 manual about doing an atf drain & fill.
Sienna ATF drain & fill without a torque wrench?
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The ATF drain plug uses a hex socket.
I usually just tighten it with feeling using some of tapping on the wrench, I know it may be dangerous but if you are used to wrenching you have a feeling.
Make sure you buy and use new washer.
At any rate, if there is Harbor Freight in your area, torque wrench is cheap, probably around $10-$15 depending on the size.
Usually, there is coupon for it.
Quality may not be top of the line but if you are just using it for once in a while, it is worth your money.
I usually just tighten it with feeling using some of tapping on the wrench, I know it may be dangerous but if you are used to wrenching you have a feeling.
Make sure you buy and use new washer.
At any rate, if there is Harbor Freight in your area, torque wrench is cheap, probably around $10-$15 depending on the size.
Usually, there is coupon for it.
Quality may not be top of the line but if you are just using it for once in a while, it is worth your money.
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I have "Never" used a torque wrench! I have never seen any of my other mechanic friends use one either.
I have rarely used a torque wrench in any of my vehicle maintenance. Unless warranted, I just take note of the force to break the nut/bolt loose and attempt to torque it back by feel. I have swung a few wrenches in my time so I am not overly worried.
If you don't have a feel for tightening fasteners.....It's best to use a torque wrench! Though Toyota has a habit of calling for too much torque on drain/fill plugs.
The owners manual wouldn't cover that, You need a service manual. Most all Toyota transaxles have a 10mm Allen drive drain plug & 13-15 ft lbs is more than enough, Toyota probably calls for 20-22 ft lbs.
The owners manual wouldn't cover that, You need a service manual. Most all Toyota transaxles have a 10mm Allen drive drain plug & 13-15 ft lbs is more than enough, Toyota probably calls for 20-22 ft lbs.
Thanks for letting me know. I just d/l the service manual, and it said 36 lbft. Yes, their drain plug for my minivan is a 10mm Allen.
Originally Posted by clinebarger
If you don't have a feel for tightening fasteners.....It's best to use a torque wrench! Though Toyota has a habit of calling for too much torque on drain/fill plugs.
The owners manual wouldn't cover that, You need a service manual. Most all Toyota transaxles have a 10mm Allen drive drain plug & 13-15 ft lbs is more than enough, Toyota probably calls for 20-22 ft lbs.
Originally Posted by clinebarger
If you don't have a feel for tightening fasteners.....It's best to use a torque wrench! Though Toyota has a habit of calling for too much torque on drain/fill plugs.
The owners manual wouldn't cover that, You need a service manual. Most all Toyota transaxles have a 10mm Allen drive drain plug & 13-15 ft lbs is more than enough, Toyota probably calls for 20-22 ft lbs.
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Originally Posted by paulri
Thanks for letting me know. I just d/l the service manual, and it said 36 lbft. Yes, their drain plug for my minivan is a 10mm Allen.
My point exactly, It's as if they want you to ruin the crush washer......
Thanks for letting me know. I just d/l the service manual, and it said 36 lbft. Yes, their drain plug for my minivan is a 10mm Allen.
My point exactly, It's as if they want you to ruin the crush washer......
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Originally Posted by paulri
Thanks for letting me know. I just d/l the service manual, and it said 36 lbft. Yes, their drain plug for my minivan is a 10mm Allen.
My point exactly, It's as if they want you to ruin the crush washer......
Toyota does consider the crush washer to be a one-time use part.
Originally Posted by paulri
Thanks for letting me know. I just d/l the service manual, and it said 36 lbft. Yes, their drain plug for my minivan is a 10mm Allen.
My point exactly, It's as if they want you to ruin the crush washer......
Toyota does consider the crush washer to be a one-time use part.
I've never used a torque wrench on these drain bolts(HEX) either.
Originally Posted by clinebarger
If you don't have a feel for tightening fasteners.....It's best to use a torque wrench! Though Toyota has a habit of calling for too much torque on drain/fill plugs.
The owners manual wouldn't cover that, You need a service manual. Most all Toyota transaxles have a 10mm Allen drive drain plug & 13-15 ft lbs is more than enough, Toyota probably calls for 20-22 ft lbs.
Exactly. If there is any doubt about properly torquing a fastener, for about $10 with a coupon you can grab a torque wrench from Harbor Freight which is perfect for that job.
If you don't have a feel for tightening fasteners.....It's best to use a torque wrench! Though Toyota has a habit of calling for too much torque on drain/fill plugs.
The owners manual wouldn't cover that, You need a service manual. Most all Toyota transaxles have a 10mm Allen drive drain plug & 13-15 ft lbs is more than enough, Toyota probably calls for 20-22 ft lbs.
Exactly. If there is any doubt about properly torquing a fastener, for about $10 with a coupon you can grab a torque wrench from Harbor Freight which is perfect for that job.
Originally Posted by paulri
I'm wondering if I can do this without a torque wrench. I saw a video of someone tightening the atf drain plug on a 2004 sienna, and it looked like it was hand tight, and then about 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn with a torque wrench. Is this about how much to turn it, or is doing it like this playing with fire (as in, I really need to buy a torque wrench)? I couldn't find any instructions at all in my 2005 manual about doing an atf drain & fill.
Catch a torque wrench on sale at Harbor freight for $ 10 - $ 20 and be done with it .
https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=torque+wrench
I'm wondering if I can do this without a torque wrench. I saw a video of someone tightening the atf drain plug on a 2004 sienna, and it looked like it was hand tight, and then about 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn with a torque wrench. Is this about how much to turn it, or is doing it like this playing with fire (as in, I really need to buy a torque wrench)? I couldn't find any instructions at all in my 2005 manual about doing an atf drain & fill.
Catch a torque wrench on sale at Harbor freight for $ 10 - $ 20 and be done with it .
https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=torque+wrench
Originally Posted by The Critic
Toyota does consider the crush washer to be a one-time use part.
What manufacturer doesn't consider their crush washer to be a one-time use part ? I know people re-use them but the manufacturers don't "support" this.
Toyota does consider the crush washer to be a one-time use part.
What manufacturer doesn't consider their crush washer to be a one-time use part ? I know people re-use them but the manufacturers don't "support" this.
On that model Sienna (same what I owned before), you can also do a cooler line flush using the return line output radiator flow after the d&f.
Use about 12 qts of ATF and you will be good for a long time.
This procedure is available from Toyota forums like Toyotanation, Siennachat.
In addition, you can splice in a Magnefine filter, or something like it, into the ATF return line.
Then the ATF in there will outlast the van (not litterally).
With an extra quart of ATF, you can also flush the PS fluid, if you have not done so.
Use about 12 qts of ATF and you will be good for a long time.
This procedure is available from Toyota forums like Toyotanation, Siennachat.
In addition, you can splice in a Magnefine filter, or something like it, into the ATF return line.
Then the ATF in there will outlast the van (not litterally).
With an extra quart of ATF, you can also flush the PS fluid, if you have not done so.
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It is at 160K, and its never had an ATF flush. I checked the fluid today and it is very dark. So my intention is simply to do a drain & fill, and not try to stir up any gunk that might be lodged in the galleries where the ATF flows. I don't know if what you suggested might stir stuff up, but my plan is to do this first, and then see how the trans reacts. Perhaps this is unnecessary caution, but I'm trying to avoid a flush right now. I've heard that flushes on an unmaintained transmission can trigger issues. After searching threads here on that issue, I know some here think this is an old wives' tale, but others warn against it, so I'm going to err on the side of being too careful.
Originally Posted by JMJNet
On that model Sienna (same what I owned before), you can also do a cooler line flush using the return line output radiator flow after the d&f.
Use about 12 qts of ATF and you will be good for a long time.
This procedure is available from Toyota forums like Toyotanation, Siennachat.
In addition, you can splice in a Magnefine filter, or something like it, into the ATF return line.
Then the ATF in there will outlast the van (not litterally).
With an extra quart of ATF, you can also flush the PS fluid, if you have not done so.
Originally Posted by JMJNet
On that model Sienna (same what I owned before), you can also do a cooler line flush using the return line output radiator flow after the d&f.
Use about 12 qts of ATF and you will be good for a long time.
This procedure is available from Toyota forums like Toyotanation, Siennachat.
In addition, you can splice in a Magnefine filter, or something like it, into the ATF return line.
Then the ATF in there will outlast the van (not litterally).
With an extra quart of ATF, you can also flush the PS fluid, if you have not done so.
I only use a torque wrench on wheel lug nuts and engine assembly. everything else is by feel.
You can do whatever you want.
My first flush was at 130K. I bought at 117K,
The mechanics replaced the filter at 130K also together with the TB.
I did another flush at 220k and sold it close to 250k due to pesky knock sensor code no trans issue.
Just a data point.
The trans shift much better after the flush.
I can say that it is stirring anything when doing the oil cooler line method but from what I read, it is not.
The flush machine is the one that cause trans damage due to stirring some cruds because they are doing it by vacuum.
I can't blame you to be cautious.
My first flush was at 130K. I bought at 117K,
The mechanics replaced the filter at 130K also together with the TB.
I did another flush at 220k and sold it close to 250k due to pesky knock sensor code no trans issue.
Just a data point.
The trans shift much better after the flush.
I can say that it is stirring anything when doing the oil cooler line method but from what I read, it is not.
The flush machine is the one that cause trans damage due to stirring some cruds because they are doing it by vacuum.
I can't blame you to be cautious.
Originally Posted by Char Baby
I've never used a torque wrench on these drain bolts(HEX) either.
Most of us have not without issue. The humorous one is posters complaining about their tech not using one for the motor oil pan.
I've never used a torque wrench on these drain bolts(HEX) either.
Most of us have not without issue. The humorous one is posters complaining about their tech not using one for the motor oil pan.
Use some common sense too, of course, especially if the metal is aluminum. Lubricated threads can mess with torque readings. Your eyes may say keep tightening, but the logic part of your brain may be saying stop.
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