No it isn't. Connecting rod and main bearings are under pressure after the power stroke of a running engine. There is no such stress on parts inside the transmission. The film of transmission fluid on the internal parts doesn't immediately disappear after the pan is empty so running it 10 15 seconds with an empty pan does no damage. Just see what Honda recommends as previously posted.
ATF Drain & Fill : How To Remove Max Fluid ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
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No it isn't. Connecting rod and main bearings are under pressure after the power stroke of a running engine. There is no such stress on parts inside the transmission. The film of transmission fluid on the internal parts doesn't immediately disappear after the pan is empty so running it 10 15 seconds with an empty pan does no damage. Just see what Honda recommends as previously posted.
From the previous post: Honda recommends shifting through the gears while the pan is still full and then draining the fluid.
Not draining and then running the engine.
“Does no damage” is quite a claim. You’ve not rebuilt transmissions, so you have not measured damage, or even looked for it, so, your claim is specious.
If @clinebarger says it’s OK to run the engine with an empty transmission fluid pan, then, that is a different story. He’s an experienced transmission guy. He’s seen the wear. He would know. I’ll take his advice.
Not draining and then running the engine.
“Does no damage” is quite a claim. You’ve not rebuilt transmissions, so you have not measured damage, or even looked for it, so, your claim is specious.
If @clinebarger says it’s OK to run the engine with an empty transmission fluid pan, then, that is a different story. He’s an experienced transmission guy. He’s seen the wear. He would know. I’ll take his advice.
Quite a few FSM specify the line off exchange method, it is generally the accepted norm, drain and fill is a waste of money and does not do a good job. This one is for an 06 Saab 2.0T 5spd auto, I will post the procedure for someone who may need the info for this specific car.
As can be seen you drain the fluid, (on cars that use an in the pan filter I change it before doing the line off) refill the fluid and only partially pump it out before refilling, the unit never goes dry.
As can be seen you drain the fluid, (on cars that use an in the pan filter I change it before doing the line off) refill the fluid and only partially pump it out before refilling, the unit never goes dry.
Exactly right.
For whatever reason, my 05 Honda Pilot FSM recommends drain and fills.
Since I joined up here, I have softened my stance on the "flush" method using the ATF coolant lines. As long as proper levels are maintained, I see no cause for alarm there.
As for doing a good job, after 5 drain and fills, you're over 98% fluid replacement... that's good enough. But, wasteful.
Since I joined up here, I have softened my stance on the "flush" method using the ATF coolant lines. As long as proper levels are maintained, I see no cause for alarm there.
As for doing a good job, after 5 drain and fills, you're over 98% fluid replacement... that's good enough. But, wasteful.
Why is the OP looking at getting out as much as possible is my question. Contaminated fluid? Wrong fluid? Some issue with the transmission’s performance?
Most mfgs I’ve run across recommend drain and fill. When buying a used car I just do a drain and fill ~ every weekend for a month theoretically most of the original fluid should be gone by drain 3. Usually the fluid comes out of the sump like it does from the bottle at drain 4. Total cost is <$90.
Most mfgs I’ve run across recommend drain and fill. When buying a used car I just do a drain and fill ~ every weekend for a month theoretically most of the original fluid should be gone by drain 3. Usually the fluid comes out of the sump like it does from the bottle at drain 4. Total cost is <$90.
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