I agree with JHZR2 and The Critic...replenishing the additives in ATF is what's important. A pan-drop done at intervals appropriate for the use the vehicle gets is more than adequate.
Changing out ATF without torque converter drain plug
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I wish Ford, GM etc. would put drain plugs in their transmission pans like many import branded vehicles do. Doing a drain and fill on my Acura is a five minute, no mess job. The same job on my truck could take considerable longer and create an oil slick on my driveway. Oh well, that's why I use the syphon from the dipstick method on it to replenish the fluid.
I don't want to beat that poor ole horse again but many people on these forums (and many that are not) advise against power flushes for transmissions. Especially in older units it can stir up junk that may work its way into the cooler or valve body. Frequent drain and fills (or pan drops or pulling from the dipstick etc.) is a safer method.
I don't want to beat that poor ole horse again but many people on these forums (and many that are not) advise against power flushes for transmissions. Especially in older units it can stir up junk that may work its way into the cooler or valve body. Frequent drain and fills (or pan drops or pulling from the dipstick etc.) is a safer method.
How difficult it is to change the fluid in a transmission depends on the the specific vehicle. With my '02 Sable (same as a G4 Taurus) I can reach throught the lower grill, remove the hose from the ATF cooler and put a piece of hose on and pump the old fluid into a container. So I've a done a full fluid exchange without even having to raise/crawl under the car. On my old Mercury Mystique there was no simple way to disconnect one of the cooling lines, so I did dump and refills.
FWIW, a fluid exchange, done through the cooling lines either with a machine or into a bucket, is not a "power flush". A true power flush machine will run cleaning fluids through the transmission. That may cause a problem with an old, never serviced transmission.
FWIW, a fluid exchange, done through the cooling lines either with a machine or into a bucket, is not a "power flush". A true power flush machine will run cleaning fluids through the transmission. That may cause a problem with an old, never serviced transmission.
Kestas
Staff member
That's one way, but there's no guarantee the other hose will suck it in. Ideally, you're supposed to disconnect the return line to the transmission and route that to a bucket, while adding new fluid through the dipstick hole.
Since it's hard to keep up with the fluid being pumped out, this is an iterative process where you have to shut the engine off after 2-3 qts are pumped out to allow for refilling.
Since it's hard to keep up with the fluid being pumped out, this is an iterative process where you have to shut the engine off after 2-3 qts are pumped out to allow for refilling.
^^^what he said^^^
"Fluid exchange" is a more accurate term for what the T-Tech (and other) machines do.
Actually, that's exactly what a fluid exchange machine does, except there's a piston (like in a shock absorber) between the 2 "buckets" to push the fresh fluid in as the old is being pumped out.
The Ford FSM procedure for doing a fluid exchange (on a Taurus/Sable) is to:
- Disconnect the return line and pump the fluid, with the engine running in Park, into a container until the flow begins to stop. (This gets most of the fluid out of the sump ~4 qts.)
- Pour 10 qts into the transmission.
- Pump 10 qts out of transmission.
- Add 2 qts to transmission.
This exhanges all 14 qts in the transmission.
It does not hurt the transmission to momentarily run the sump dry: the engine is only idling and there is no load on the transmission. There is no reason to try and keep up pouring fluid into the transmission as the fluid is being pumped out.
- Disconnect the return line and pump the fluid, with the engine running in Park, into a container until the flow begins to stop. (This gets most of the fluid out of the sump ~4 qts.)
- Pour 10 qts into the transmission.
- Pump 10 qts out of transmission.
- Add 2 qts to transmission.
This exhanges all 14 qts in the transmission.
It does not hurt the transmission to momentarily run the sump dry: the engine is only idling and there is no load on the transmission. There is no reason to try and keep up pouring fluid into the transmission as the fluid is being pumped out.
Uhh...shouldn't you pump out 10 quarts before pouring back in an additional 10 quarts? Wouldn't you blowout some gaskets/seals if you overfilled by 10 quarts?
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No. If you drove that way you would aerate the fluid. Nothing's moving if you over fill. The pump still just pumps what the pickup ..picks up.
OTOH, I think you would be pressed to find 2.5 gallons worth of hollow room inside a transmission that still had the majority of the fluid in it.
OTOH, I think you would be pressed to find 2.5 gallons worth of hollow room inside a transmission that still had the majority of the fluid in it.
Reread the Tauri FSM simple and quick directions:
Disconnect line
Pump transmission DRY
Add 10 quarts
Pump out the 10 just added
Reconnect line
Top off completely
This can be adapted to any transmission, and many have plenty of air space for an additional gallon or 2 so you don't have to waste time doing tiny increments.
Disconnect line
Pump transmission DRY
Add 10 quarts
Pump out the 10 just added
Reconnect line
Top off completely
This can be adapted to any transmission, and many have plenty of air space for an additional gallon or 2 so you don't have to waste time doing tiny increments.
Which ATF fluid is the best? Dexron 6, Amsoil, or Redline?
You've asked this question a gizillion times.quote:
Originally posted by stingray427:
Which ATF fluid is the best? Dexron 6, Amsoil, or Redline?
Use Dexron-VI when you have the flush done at the dealership. It may not be as good as RL or Amsoil on paper, but it will perform just as well if not better when it comes to low-temp/fuel economy. Thought it isn't that big of an issue, using Dexron-VI will eliminate any warranty concerns that you may have with unlicensed fluids, which may be a concern with you.
Kestas
Staff member
It can be used anywhere Dexron-III is allowed, and is backward compatible with those applications.
Dexron 6 is the latest from GM and it goes back to cover past Dexron applications. It is semi-synthetic ATF.
I bought one of those $6.99 drill-pumps at the local hardware store. I thought that would be handy with that clear plastic line. I think the pump was defective as it wouldn't pump anything, even when I put fluid in and sucked hard!!
I like the idea of the pump to get out MOST of the fluid and then dropping the pan to finish. Getting a second pan at the salvage yard might be a good idea as well, then you can clean it, drill it, tap it and put in a drain plug and when you take your pan off you have one cleaned and ready to go back on, with plug in place.
I am thinking Amsoil synthetic on my 1996 Park Avenue and forgetting the Lucas oil additive.
I am thinking Amsoil synthetic on my 1996 Park Avenue and forgetting the Lucas oil additive.
I can't speak for Red Line, but as for Amsoil ATF I don't think you are risking ANY warranty in using it. It meets specs all across the board except the Honda CVT transmission.
Sounds good to me
So if Amsoil doesn't have the license for Dexron 6 does that mean they have to get the license from GM before they can make the claim that the fluid is Dexron 6?quote:
Originally posted by Nebraskan:
I bought one of those $6.99 drill-pumps at the local hardware store. I thought that would be handy with that clear plastic line. I think the pump was defective as it wouldn't pump anything, even when I put fluid in and sucked hard!!I like the idea of the pump to get out MOST of the fluid and then dropping the pan to finish. Getting a second pan at the salvage yard might be a good idea as well, then you can clean it, drill it, tap it and put in a drain plug and when you take your pan off you have one cleaned and ready to go back on, with plug in place.
I am thinking Amsoil synthetic on my 1996 Park Avenue and forgetting the Lucas oil additive.
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