I am tired of people mixing oils

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I tend to buy on sale, so I end up with Big Lots markdowns, Wallyworld Super Tech stuff, and Pep Boys rebate brands. I've been using Advanced Auto as my mixer oil cause I got 2 cases at $1.25 a quart in a grand opening sale.

In general, I use Supertech synthetics (and Big Lots clearance Havoline Synthetic) in my 2 newer cars, and Dino sale stuff in the 2 old cars. Right now I've got Advance Auto Dino, and next season it will probably be Pep Boys rebated Valvoline.

I've just been very lucky. Ask my wife.

Seriously, for mainstream brands with SL/SM ratings, I see no harm done.
 
I never understood the desire or compulsion to mix lubricants of any type but my opinion is about as useful as a rock lurking under Pablo's brown patchy lawn.

A lawn full of weeds.

Where not even a starving goat would want to graze.

Uh, Pablo IS on vacation, right?
 
I'm not a mix fan, but used to mix viscs to get the best "feel" in my old Euro cars. 10w-40 alone just was too heavy. Anyway, the best argument against mixing is that various additives work best with various base stocks. Good then. Well, I'd have to point out that as you mix the oils, in ANY proportion, the relative levels and ratios of additives to basestocks will remain the same. See? If you pour in a certian amount of this or that oil, the base and additves go in along together abs their respective amounts stay in-check. Does this make sense? Even so, I don't mix except my Delo 30 with other Chevron oils. Havoline is one oil that I worry the least about mixing within the brand as the base and additives are pretty similar.
 
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Paul would you be kind enough to post the nimbleness rating of this brew after you give it the shake test?
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Ahhh, this brew will be extra nimble and will have a thickness to it that you can really feel.


Just for the record, so you know I am not a total mixing nut, I currently have no mixtures, but have souped all my vehicles crankcases:

Motorhome: Maxlife 10w30 with 3 oz Bruces PCMO add.
Aerostar: Maxlife Synthetic 10w30 with 15 oz VSOT.
Pickup: Soon to be Maxlife 10w40 with SLOB.

No mixtures beyond the additives. But I do plan to run the 20w50/20W brew someday.
 
Note to self, don't mix Fuchs and Mobil 1 0W20....
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I'm tired of people concerned about other people mixing oils. The whole premise of this topic is silly. Really. Who cares? I'm not trying to be rude, but....Most people mixing are getting rid of odds and ends or just having fun. Who's blown up an engine mixing Castrol and Valvoline? Mobil1 and Pennzoil? How many of us are blowing engines period? I mean, if the masses get by with bulk oil from Jiffy Lube changed out at some ridiculously stretched interval, how bad can a little bit of Havoline and M1 thrown together be for 5,000 miles in the grand, cosmic scheme of things? If I drove a Maybach, maybe I'd care. I don't, and....I don't.....
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And please no one post the Exxon Group III article at this point.
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Ahh, I have to say I have mixed with odds and end oil. My current run is Maxlife syn with 15oz. of vsot.
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glad to hear I'm not the only one slapping odds and ends in crank cases with no fear. For my buddies neglected jeep we went with a gallon of delvac 1300 15w40, a qt of delo 400, and 1/2qt of GC, and a 1/2qt of 5w30 havoline dino. He only had enough money to buy 1 gallon and a filter, I said I'd top him off with stuff from home. What's in there now is a lot better than leaving the oil he had in there any longer (was going on 10,000 miles).
 
Well it seems the mixing can fall into two categories. Those who mix out of necessity and/or convenience. I.e. financial reasons or not to waste oil oil, and those looking for the magic elixir that they have decided will result in zero engine wear.

The first feels legit to me, the second feels childish. But even still, some people are still children and what do kids do but play?
 
I also think that the attempts to "improve" on a given oil by mixing in a bit of something else, additives included, is mostly foolish. With zero controlled testing available to us this is simply shooting in the dark whilst thinking oneself a genius.

That said, I do occassionally mix to use up the odd half quart, but when doing so I try to at least keep it "in the family". Thus I might top off a fill of four quarts of Maxlife with a left over 1/2 quart of Maxlife synthetic. However, I try not to even do that as I can generally use up the odd bits for the several pieces of small engine equipment we have around.
 
I believe mixing with api certified oil is fine. isn't that one of the rules of being api certified? that they have to be mixable with other brands without detrimental to an engine. for example, joe schmo low oil light comes on, he pulls in a convenience store and buys pennzoil to top off but has kendall oil from the independent shop.
 
I do think mixing is a bit of a gamble. They only mixing I do currently is with my Motul 300V and they reason for that is the agents only brought stock of the 5w-30 (65 cst at 40C, 11 cst at 100C) and 10w-40 (89,5 cst at 40C, 14 cst at 100C) in and forgot the 5w-40 that I ordered for my self. SO I mix them 50/50 and come out to viscosities similar to a 5w-40….77 cst at 40C and 12,5 cst at 100C. Motul says there is no problem what so ever doing this to obtain a viscosity that suites your motor.
I am curious to know what your thoughts are regarding a mix of Motul 300V 5w-30 and Mobil 1 0w-40 are?
 
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I believe mixing with api certified oil is fine. isn't that one of the rules of being api certified? that they have to be mixable with other brands without detrimental to an engine. for example, joe schmo low oil light comes on, he pulls in a convenience store and buys pennzoil to top off but has kendall oil from the independent shop.




great point, I agree 100%
 
All that data really says is that the Fuchs is cruddy compared to the M1.
Of course mixing crud with a better oil would make the end result worse.
 
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Is that calculator correct...I typed in my figures as given above and it shows some dodgy doo figures...?




Turbodriven,

Here's an example mix of two viscosity's based on a 5 quart quantity:

Chevron Supreme 10W-30 using 3 quarts = 60%
73.5 cSt @ 40C
10.8 cSt @ 100C

Chevron Supreme 10W-40 using 2 quarts = 40%
104 cSt @ 40C
14.8 cSt @ 100C

Final Viscosity:
84.4 cSt @ 40C
12.3 cSt @ 100C

It should be noted that these figures are from the previous 2006 formula.

ChevronMix.jpg
 
As for myself, I might get my hands on a 4 or 5 qt jug of oil, though I need to fill a 5.6 qt case. Yes I could by another qt or 2, but what about those sitting I already have. As said, sometimes it's about saving a buck or two.

Having used synthetic for a few years on a new-to-me used car with no oil history, one especially cold winter left me with some leaking seals. Going back to mineral stocks seemed to slow things, and the current fill of HM mineral has it all but stopped. I've done a bit of work on vehicles like many of those around here, even an engine rebuild and customization during my school years. The battle against rust was however a wearing factor on my nerves having to deal with the salts and dirt that inevitably becomes airborn, damaging paint and glass alike. That said, I resist getting the engine hoist out of the shed and pulling the motor and FWD tranny. I could just pay a shop, but that would cost $800-1000 for just the rear main seal as I have heard from others on another forum. I'd personally go about replacing all the seals as at one point in the above situation, they just about all showed some leakage.

A poster on another topic had provided a link to VW and something to do with recommended oils/OCI's for their vehicle(s). It did mention that if one didn't have spec'ed oil but one of applicable viscosity, that up to a qt or so could be added to the crankcase for replenishment/top-off. The only thing I think they said in such case that could be viewed as negative, was something like reducing the OCI, say using the servere service OCI even thought one's operating habits may not fit such a category. In such a case, having the correct amount of oil is better than no oil - being that it's acceptible oil to begin with that is able to be used in such a category (gasoline engine, deisel engine, etc.).

There are situations like that above where one oil type has a less favorable side effect but is thought ideal for all operating extremes, but a lesser in comparison though still able in less extreme situations is used. One might think to tweak the viscosity characteristics for say cold weather start-up, by switching out a qt or two of mineral for synthetic, possibly of lower viscosity. Infrequant use and cold soak issues to contend with that has some effect on mineral bases initial flow performance isn't the case with synthetic's so I've come to understand, and the ratio of synthetic to mineral doesn't seem to upset seal issues so as to aggrivate leaks. Does it really provide any benefit? I honestly don't know for I'm not running side to side comparisons. Does it feel like I'm "helping" the situations? It does, but then when have "feelings" proved to be the deciding factor in all successes? - I think it something that's easiest to live with, having it been said that human's are emotional beings.

And then again, Some might just wish to see what happens, playing a dare or just chance...though in reality they could stand to lose out and find their pleasurable was are/were actually self defeating - that of course if they are actually paying close attention and are open to the truth of the matter.

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"We come into life, learning about life. Just what one does with such knowledge and experience is up to the individual and their abilities, resources considered."
 
Well, Doc Haas, you've touched on this before in various papers anyway, lots of folks in the know have continuously pushed the good advice that the PCMO's of today are fine all by themselves. I dunno from Fuchs and M1 blends, I have no idea why anyone would engage in that. However, since you touch on the additive clash issue, what about the folks dropping a bottle of VSOT (a loaded mix of ALL the additives) or SLOB (lots of zinc, lots of calcium) into an OCI of synthetic PCMO that has passed the kind of testing presented by ILSAC and API in GF4 and SM (respectively)?

Pointless in modern-day passenger cars, and who knows the base oil properties of these adds? Aren't "adders" corrupting the base oil of a nice synthetic adding this stuff by the pint and quart?
 
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I pour all my odd and ends down my neighbors well. She is a city dweller who came out to the country and has no appreciation for folks shooting armadillo's off their back porch. She did mention to my wife that this country water has cured her digestive issues and she is now regular as the newspaper.
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Nice.
 
I'll say that after a long run of premium synth, like GC, I'll top the final time with a quart of dino. I figure at that point, it just adds some physical volume, it can't hurt and it saves me a quart of Golden Green.
 
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