So when and where did Ford/Honda make the announcement that "lower life expectancy is caused by 20wts"??
A simple solution to higher viscosity oils is oil temp control. This has been mentioned before. Doesn't 20wt keep cooler and hence at a similar viscosity to a thicker oil. Thinner oil leads to more oil flow which leads to.......The oil pressure regular dumps oil later with a thinner oil. More flow when its needed even if PSI is lower. More oil as a coolant and lube where/when its needed.
When Ford came out with the 20wt, its testing required the use of higher quality basestocks. This is one reason why the 5w20 was a success.
What would you rather have, a STOUT 20wt or a wimpy quickeelube 40wt? Not everyone wants to spend $6 a quart on oil.
What would a quickee lube place install if it wasn't forced to use the $1.50/quart 20wt? a $.59 30wt or 40wt! Remember to think in terms population majority.
Old Ford engine designs requiring 30wt?????? Nope, I just think that oil temp and flow control is good enough in those engines!
Can someone please post a link that mentions 20wt oils with tax tax and CAFE credits? I just can't find where oil weight is used in the CAFE MPG formula!
Concerning the rotary engine, it has a large sump per engine size, an oil cooler(s), oil thermostats, lots of oil pressure and flow.......The rotary lubrication is well enough designed that engine bearings are usually reused during rebuilds. The thicker is better has not been proven with this engine.
Anyone ever reuse engine bearings on a high mileage Ford/Chevy/Dodge rebuild????????
Silkolene's warning concerning the 0w20 is funny and inludes "under race conditions" and mentions nothing about street usage. You would think that someone building a race engine would be smart enough to include the appropriate oil pressure, volume, and cooling. I guess that there are race engine builders that suck. There's only one winner in a race!
Is thicker oil a bandaid for bad engine design, low quality manufacturing, and poor engineering?
Thats the vibe I'm getting from this thread.
I also think that switching to a not so popular weight is the easiest way for Ford/Honda to spec a quality lube without forcing dealer only oil/ATF like some VW's/Audi's/ZF and AW trannies!
Gotten run and add some 5w40 oil into my Nissan's 155hp ~3.5 quart(joke of a sump capacity+thimble sized oil filter), steering wheel & shifter shaking(low idle+poor engine balance), valvetrain clattering(engineering i$$ue), radiator fans running all the time(high head temp--clean emissions), 2.4L intake manifold gasket & rockercover seal eating.......
Then I'll check(even though it doesn't burn a drop) the 5w20 oil in the 160hp balanced shafted smooth quiet ~4.5 quart sump Mazda 2.3L, an engine design with some boringly excellent UOAs.
A simple solution to higher viscosity oils is oil temp control. This has been mentioned before. Doesn't 20wt keep cooler and hence at a similar viscosity to a thicker oil. Thinner oil leads to more oil flow which leads to.......The oil pressure regular dumps oil later with a thinner oil. More flow when its needed even if PSI is lower. More oil as a coolant and lube where/when its needed.
When Ford came out with the 20wt, its testing required the use of higher quality basestocks. This is one reason why the 5w20 was a success.
What would you rather have, a STOUT 20wt or a wimpy quickeelube 40wt? Not everyone wants to spend $6 a quart on oil.
What would a quickee lube place install if it wasn't forced to use the $1.50/quart 20wt? a $.59 30wt or 40wt! Remember to think in terms population majority.
Old Ford engine designs requiring 30wt?????? Nope, I just think that oil temp and flow control is good enough in those engines!
Can someone please post a link that mentions 20wt oils with tax tax and CAFE credits? I just can't find where oil weight is used in the CAFE MPG formula!
Concerning the rotary engine, it has a large sump per engine size, an oil cooler(s), oil thermostats, lots of oil pressure and flow.......The rotary lubrication is well enough designed that engine bearings are usually reused during rebuilds. The thicker is better has not been proven with this engine.
Anyone ever reuse engine bearings on a high mileage Ford/Chevy/Dodge rebuild????????
Silkolene's warning concerning the 0w20 is funny and inludes "under race conditions" and mentions nothing about street usage. You would think that someone building a race engine would be smart enough to include the appropriate oil pressure, volume, and cooling. I guess that there are race engine builders that suck. There's only one winner in a race!
Is thicker oil a bandaid for bad engine design, low quality manufacturing, and poor engineering?
Thats the vibe I'm getting from this thread.
I also think that switching to a not so popular weight is the easiest way for Ford/Honda to spec a quality lube without forcing dealer only oil/ATF like some VW's/Audi's/ZF and AW trannies!
Gotten run and add some 5w40 oil into my Nissan's 155hp ~3.5 quart(joke of a sump capacity+thimble sized oil filter), steering wheel & shifter shaking(low idle+poor engine balance), valvetrain clattering(engineering i$$ue), radiator fans running all the time(high head temp--clean emissions), 2.4L intake manifold gasket & rockercover seal eating.......
Then I'll check(even though it doesn't burn a drop) the 5w20 oil in the 160hp balanced shafted smooth quiet ~4.5 quart sump Mazda 2.3L, an engine design with some boringly excellent UOAs.