Hypothetically, who makes a good 5w-20 for a modern, non-turbo engine?

Toyota 2.5L 4 cylinder, non turbo. OCI would never be more than 5,000. Trips would vary tremendously from city (5 miles or so) to 1200 miles on the highway continuously.

Just about any API licensed house brand would easily suffice. There is no reason to spend a lot of money for that application. Even if it's GDI, your planned OCI is short enough that fuel dilution would be moot.

Seriously; you're overthinking this. Your engine, based on the described application, will NEVER see any difference in wear control regardless of what brand/grade you choose.

Anyone who says otherwise I would challenge to show me real world true data from macro-market applications that what I claim is not true. (Shade-tree anecdotal war-stories are not credible "proof").
 
Mobil 1 usually runs two rebates in spring and fall
When rebates are on go to Walmart and pick up enough for 2 oil changes
Mobil 1 synthetic is great oil especially with rebates
 
Supertech or Quaker State at their everyday price at Walmart. Otherwise any synthetic on sale or rebate. This is usually how I decide what oil goes into my car these days.
 
So what is the difference between a 5w-20 and 0w-20 in formulation. More VII, better base stock in one or the other??

For example I looked at M1EP in 0w-20 and 5w-20. The 0W was dexos approved. The top one below is 0w, one below it is the 5w-20, M1EP?

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I know many on here think 0w-20s have better formulations than 5w-20s.
I think that many here who believe what you state are just fooling themselves.

Pretty much any lube that is available in both grades is going to be formulated extremely similarly, if not the exactly the same, as far as the add-pack goes. The only obvious difference will be the base stock grade itself. And when it comes to longevity of the equipment, the 5w- versus 0w argument is simply moot in all but the most incredibly cold of starting environments.
 
So what is the difference between a 5w-20 and 0w-20 in formulation. More VII, better base stock in one or the other??

For example I looked at M1EP in 0w-20 and 5w-20. The 0W was dexos approved. The top one below is 0w, one below it is the 5w-20, M1EP?

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The highlighted section on the MSDS of the 0W-20 alludes to the esters.
 
Because for mostly short trips less than 5 miles, 0w20 will be better for those driving conditions.
Is this not a myth? Unless we're talking about short trips in such low temperatures that the 5W rating oil will no longer pump, then it doesn't make a difference. 0W doesn't travel through the oil galleries faster at say 40 degrees Fahrenheit than a 5W does.
 
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The highlighted section on the MSDS of the 0W-20 alludes to the esters.
This is exactly what it is, or at least where the belief came from that 0W-20s are better. I myself was using Mobil 1 0W-20 EP instead of 5W-20 a couple years ago (before the Triple Action era) for the same reason.

Now, whether or not it made any difference in my application is another conversation, but that's where this mentality stems from.
 
Is that SuperTech "full saps" or "full synthetic"? 😆
Call Warren.
This is exactly what it is, or at least where the belief came from that 0W-20s are better. I myself was using Mobil 1 0W-20 EP instead of 5W-20 a couple years ago (before the Triple Action era) for the same reason.

Now, whether is made any difference or not is another conversation, but that's where this mentality stems from.
Same reason folks like to recommend 0W40s over 5W40s.
 
So for us simpler types, the 0w-20 is PAO, and Group 3?

The 5w-20 is 30-40% GTL, and something not listed - so Group 2??

Do I have that correct?
MSDS gives an idea as to what might be in the formula, it doesn't discuss the formulation itself.
Otherwise I think you have it correct. Not sure whether the unlisted line is group 2 or not...
 
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Ya know, this whole thread is a contradiction at it's core.

Look at the thread title ... it implies he's looking for a "good" oil. OK - there are a massive slew of "good" oils out there, and for his revealed application, pretty much anything from a house brand on up would suffice quite well. Nothing but "normal" in his operational description.

Yet in the text of the initial post, he eludes to wanting the best, but not paying for the best ... (he makes no effort to define what "highest quality" means)
... who is making the highest quality 5w-20 right now (excluding the "premium" brands that cost a fortune).

In summary, he wants a "good" oil, that is the "highest quality", for a non-premium (aka cheap) price, for his average application.
Typical BITOGer. :rolleyes:

Yes sir, the magic unicorn lubricants are kept behind the counter; strictly for BITOG members only.
 
Toyota port injected non-turbo 2.5L 4 cylinder with 5000 mile intervals? You could probably run sand in the oil and still see 300k miles.

Joking aside, really any 5w20 that meets the current API specs would work perfectly. Supertech, Napa, Valvoline, Quaker State, Pennzoil, Mobil, synthetic, conventional, any API certified brand 5w20 will work excellent. I dated a girl who drove a 96 Camry. It saw close to 300k before it rusted out, and she changed the oil "when her dad reminded her" and it got the cheapest oil they could find.

My mom has a 2011 Honda Fit with 1.5L NA engine. I've been running 5w20 that I find on sale for 105k miles, and the current favorite flavor has been MaxLife 5w20. Oil technology has come a long way, hard to go wrong with any of the name brands.
 
Mobil-1 EP Triple Action 0w20.
The 0w20 can do everything the 5w20s do (and more). The 0w20 is built stronger than the 5w20s.

When the warranty period ends, move to 5w30. Then check back and see how the engine's doing at 200k.
 
I have run various name brand, full syn 5W20 in an 1.5T Ecoboost and modified and tuned Hemi 5.7 without issue. And I wasn’t exactly easy on either. You could go 5W20 blend with that application and be more than covered.
 
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