Hypothetical: Supertech Syn vs Top conventional?

Pennzoil motor oil
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Originally Posted By: SirTanon
Good question, and I'm sure you'll get lots of differing opinions, but this is how I see it..

a top-tier conventional, like Pennzoil Conventional, Quaker State Conventional, etc.. will provide extremely good protection, lubrication, etc.. and most likely include a decent amount of Grp III, as Broc mentions

Super Tech synthetic will also likely provide some excellent protection, etc..

but, Super Tech synthetic is over $17 a jug, and I can get Pennzoil Conventional for about $13.. and as far as I'm concerned, both would EASILY go the distance on the standard 7,500 mile OCI that I run in my Fusion.. So I'll go with the Pennzoil Conventional and save $4 per OCI.


Exactly.

The dexos1 spec is not relevant for me, so Pennzoil Conventional/Formula Shell/ Quaker State Conventional, Castrol GTX, Valvoline conventional, etc will do just fine for me.
 
I agree that most cars only need API SN mineral oil, and there is nothing wrong with that. But like Wemay above, I think Dexos1 is a good oil spec (and more than just Noack), so if you have a few more coins in your pocket and want a bit more oil for your car, there is nothing wrong with chasing a higher oil spec. I've only ever seen GM Dexos1 or Euro A3/B4 as either a full or semi synthetic.

This is more personal opinion, but for the thinner oils I would list them in this (ascending) order: SN, GF-5, Dexos1, A1/B1, A5/B5

For thicker oils, I would list them as: SN, A3/B3, A3/B4, MB229.5, Porsche A40, BMW LL-01

There are many more specs out there like VW or RN or low SAPS C3 or HDEO specs. But the above are the ones I tend to look for. Many top shelf oils will list a multitude of these specs. You don't have to drive a GM to use Dexos or a Porsche to use A40 oil.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Abysmal = Extremely noisy operation and poor fuel mileage.
Valvoline "syn" was also poor. Magnetec SS 5w30 in the spring was a godsend of beauty.

Yes, I tell my truth. I don't withhold information to boost my ego.

If I make a poor choice I admit it. If I feel poor performance I report it.

I am not a fan boy.

Fan boys here hate me if I'm not on "their" team.

Discount the above as the typical, juvenile, ad hominem attack.


So many examples of subjective anecdotes though. Running terribly on Supertech could be bad gasoline, weather changes, battery performance causing slower starting...Whatever factors are being used have no way to be verified. Poor fuel mileage? Did you use a straight 50 wt in it? Going from similar grades wouldn't even make a noticeable difference.

You mention going to Magnatec in the spring "was a godsend of beauty"
tired.gif
. Maybe it was just spring and warmer temperatures made different sounds and would have with any oil you ran that winter? Maybe you had noisier operation and poorer fuel economy in winter because it was WINTER and everybody experiences that and it's not harmful or any oil's fault.

Any time people switch similar oils and instantly say there is a night and day difference, you can always discount them.



OP: To answer your question, Full Synthetic Supertech or a good name brand conventional? Depends on the deal. Same price , I'd go with the ST. If I can get the conventional for half the price, I'd go with that. The amount of difference isn't perceivable through "sounds (that mean nothing)" and "feelings" when they are barely not noticeable on lab results from used oil analysis.
 
Originally Posted By: Tony10s
Originally Posted By: SirTanon
Good question, and I'm sure you'll get lots of differing opinions, but this is how I see it..

a top-tier conventional, like Pennzoil Conventional, Quaker State Conventional, etc.. will provide extremely good protection, lubrication, etc.. and most likely include a decent amount of Grp III, as Broc mentions

Super Tech synthetic will also likely provide some excellent protection, etc..

but, Super Tech synthetic is over $17 a jug, and I can get Pennzoil Conventional for about $13.. and as far as I'm concerned, both would EASILY go the distance on the standard 7,500 mile OCI that I run in my Fusion.. So I'll go with the Pennzoil Conventional and save $4 per OCI.


Exactly.

The dexos1 spec is not relevant for me, so Pennzoil Conventional/Formula Shell/ Quaker State Conventional, Castrol GTX, Valvoline conventional, etc will do just fine for me.


Dexos1 spec is relevant to everyone if you want a guaranteed Noack limit.
 
One of the requirements of API SN is that the NOACK percentage has to be less than 15%, so any API SN motor oil also has a guaranteed NOACK limit.

In my case, as long as the motor oil is API SN/GF-5 (conventional, synblend, or synthetic), then it's fine for me to use it.
 
When I am at Walmart I bypass Super Tech syn and name brand conventionals altogether and get M1 or PP and send in the rebate. Cheaper than name brand conventional.

Hypothetically, if only Super Tech syn and name brand conventional were on the shelf (not an impossible scenario at Walmart by the way) I'd grab the Super Tech.
 
supertech synthetic is a fine oil. i run it in my wifes car 130K no issues. i use it in my dirtbikes, UTV. no issues with Super Tech oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Tony10s
One of the requirements of API SN is that the NOACK percentage has to be less than 15%, so any API SN motor oil also has a guaranteed NOACK limit.

In my case, as long as the motor oil is API SN/GF-5 (conventional, synblend, or synthetic), then it's fine for me to use it.


Dexos is lower than that. It's mentioned in this thread. Reading is fundamental.
 
But for Tony10s applications it's only called for API SN which is ALL that he needs. CONTEXT IS FUNDAMENTAL. API SN is 15% NOACK and that is fine for him. If a oil surpasses the limit then it's falsely advertising what's in the bottle IF it carries the insignia about being API SN approved.
Heck, let's look at MB 229.5 it's NOACK limit is 10%... well better than both API and Dexos. I have run a MB 229.5 in my car and even just a API SN as well. Both exceed the API SM which is called for in the manual. The question really is how much difference does it make? I Don't know. But I do know my car runs like a champ whether it be Dexos, SN, or MB 229.5 BMW LL-01 approved oil in it. Truth be told I have only had one time where I suspected my car burned a bit of oil more than I would like. It was Warren syn blend that did that just a bit.
 
Originally Posted By: bbhero
But for Tony10s applications it's only called for API SN which is ALL that he needs. CONTEXT IS FUNDAMENTAL. API SN is 15% NOACK and that is fine for him. If a oil surpasses the limit then it's falsely advertising what's in the bottle IF it carries the insignia about being API SN approved.
Heck, let's look at MB 229.5 it's NOACK limit is 10%... well better than both API and Dexos. I have run a MB 229.5 in my car and even just a API SN as well. Both exceed the API SM which is called for in the manual. The question really is how much difference does it make? I Don't know. But I do know my car runs like a champ whether it be Dexos, SN, or MB 229.5 BMW LL-01 approved oil in it. Truth be told I have only had one time where I suspected my car burned a bit of oil more than I would like. It was Warren syn blend that did that just a bit.


Yes context is fundamental. He said NOACK only matters to GM folks. I said it can matter to anyone if they want a lower Noack ceiling. Keep digging.
 
Again superhero.. he was referencing his own applications thus when it was emphasized in the bold type in that post he put up about it. Of course you are correct that it can be applied to all other vehicles not just GM. Which is spot on. I like a Dexos specification and HTO-06 together. Or MB 229.5 and BMW LL-01-04 together if I'm thinking of running something not tied into saving 0.3 mpg.
 
Originally Posted By: bbhero
... he was referencing his own applications thus when it was emphasized in the bold type in that post he put up about it. ...


Thank you bbhero.

My original post made no mention of NOACK at all. I was just talking about me and what I am currently concerned about. And like I said in my second post, in my case, as long as the motor oil is API SN/GF-5 (conventional, synblend, or synthetic), then it's fine for me to use it.
 
Originally Posted By: gallydif
Seems like the general census on bitog was that dexos was a load of [censored]
Opinions... but bellow are the facts. Not that there's anything wrong with ILSAC/API but Dexos is clearly a step above if needed or wanted.

 
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: gallydif
Seems like the general census on bitog was that dexos was a load of [censored]
Opinions... but bellow are the facts. Not that there's anything wrong with ILSAC/API but Dexos is clearly a step above if needed or wanted.


I'm not sure the general concensus on BITOG was that dexos was a load of hooey from a technical standpoint, but I do recall the general disdain for it being a "paid" standard, in that any oil blender who wished to sell a dexos-certified oil had to pay an ongoing royalty fee to General Motors.
 
People don't trust store brand oil. And after my experience with an off-brand paint roller, I think I now understand why.
 
What standards and specifications does that paint roller list on the label?

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
People don't trust store brand oil. And after my experience with an off-brand paint roller, I think I now understand why.
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: gallydif
Seems like the general census on bitog was that dexos was a load of [censored]
Opinions... but bellow are the facts. Not that there's anything wrong with ILSAC/API but Dexos is clearly a step above if needed or wanted.






I don't see API SN or even SM on this.. don't suppose you have a graph that includes either of those as well?
 
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