HYPER low mi/short trips: conventional or synth?

[Quartz]

(The full title of this post is supposed to be "ULTRA HYPER low mileage + short-trips car: should I use conventional or synthetic oil? Does it matter?" but I can't fit all that in the subject line)

I live in a northern state area with zero public transportation, so I need a car. However, I work from home and don't get out much, so I hardly ever drive: typically about ten miles a month and only a couple hundred miles per year. Most of what I use the car for are weekly trips to the grocery store (~2 miles round trip) and a random short errand or two, although I do occasionally go out to visit a friend or relative a few times a year (15-60 miles round trip). My car's engine is an i5 with factory low pressure turbo. Manual says conventional oil and that it should be changed at least once a year, I've been changing both the oil and filter every six months. My car lives in a garage complex if it makes any difference.

I know short trips (especially in the winter) don't let the engine warm up enough and that can lead to condensation-induced acid and sludge buildup, but I'm not sure if the extra additives in synthetic do anything about that. I can't seem to find any information except that synthetics are supposed to have a higher TBN and that that's supposed to indicate acid-fighting ability, but I'm not sure if that applies to my use case. I've swapped back and forth between conventional and synthetic oil based on different recommendations from different dealers, relatives, and my mechanic.... but I'd like to get a real answer if possible.

Thoughts?

 

[Superflop]

Mobil1 0w40 and a decent quality filter (napa gold,wix) once a year. Your Volvo should like this

 

[Superflop]

I should mention that I believe with turbos you are better served using a full synth

 

[FCD]

Definetly use a full synthetic but i'd also advise you to take it for a long drive every now and then just for the sake of getting the engine well up to temp so all the condensation from the oil evaporates and it also could prevent future issues with carbon build up, and if you do that when you take it out drive it aggressively with the engine up to temp ofcourse

 

[Superflop]

Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
Definetly use a full synthetic but i'd also advise you to take it for a long drive every now and then just for the sake of getting the engine well up to temp so all the condensation from the oil evaporates and it also could prevent future issues with carbon build up, and if you do that when you take it out drive it aggressively with the engine up to temp ofcourse
he makes a very good point I mostly short trip my car also which is a turbo 4cyl. So once every other week or so I have a nice to drive route I take to get the car nice and hot probably 40 mile round rip?

 

[Quartz]

I'm not sure full synthetic is strictly necessary just because I have a turbo... I mean it was a non-optional factory install and the manual says to use conventional, I assume if synthetic was a requirement for it they'd say so. I'm more wondering if synthetic has any properties that might help fight the condensation/sludge issue.

---

I know it should really be driven more and more often, but it's hard for me to justify blowing $10 in gas every weekend driving in circles just for the sake of it. Would typical suburban driving in a lower gear and keeping the revs higher than normal be a good idea? I've tried driving on the highway in lower gear a few times just to give the engine a workout, but even in 3rd I'm already over the speed limit way before redline, but I'm too scared to throw it in 2nd. I've tried to give it an "italian tune up" a few times, but there are few places around here with enough space to floor it and get up to speed legally and safely.

 

[umungus1122]

How about Rotella T5 10w-30 HDEO?

 

[Silk]

My Volvo also does short runs, but does get to do a longer trip into a couple of cities close to me infrequently. I just posted on another thread how quickly the Volvo heats up - the oil cooler goes into the top tank, and on my 2 mile trip to work it's fully warmed up, thermostat open and sump hot. I've never seen a car get fully warmed up so fast, so now am not too worried about my short trips in it.

 

[supton]

I'd skip on 6 month oil changes, and just do it once/year, on synthetic. I don't think it's necessary, not at less than 1,000miles per year and on a low-performance turbo; but it's probably best.

One thing I would do is buy a battery tender, a good one, so as to make sure the battery stays topped off. I'm not sure what kind of car this is, but I'm guessing its fairly old, otherwise you'd be complaining about how it always has a dead battery.

As for Italian tuneups... I'd pop the oil fill cap. If it looks milky then yes, try driving in 2nd a bit more (or take the long way), whatever it takes to get the engine warmed up. Otherwise, if it's clean, I'd just keep doing what you're doing. A handful of short trips followed by your longer trips every month or so is probably sufficient.

 

[Quartz]

Hmmm... is once a year really often enough? I know the miles are low but I feel like that's asking for trouble. My mechanic said he doesn't trust leaving the same oil in that long, even considering the mileage.

As for the battery, yeah that is something I have to worry about. I've gotten low battery warnings once or twice when I sit in a parking lot for ~15m with the key in accessory mode listening to the radio. I have to do most of my driving at night so it's harder on the alternator. I'm not sure how to go about dealing with a battery tender; there's no good place to hook that up.

Popping the oil cap doesn't tell me anything I can understand. There's some sort of metal disk with vents in it about an inch down into the hole (which I guess to to prevent idiots from dropping things in there?) but I can't figure out how to get it out. I can't really see through it, but the area above it is completely clean of pretty much anything.

Also, FWIW, on a weekly trip down the street to the store, the engine gets to around 75% normal temp in the five minutes it takes to get there. Sometimes I'll idle in the lot for a bit but I know idling too much is also a problem so I'm not sure what to do there either. Unfortunately, the roads here mean that there isn't really a "long way around" so much as driving in the opposite direction and then driving back.

 

[Rickey]

Quartz, greetings.

Thats a difficult question to answer accurately.

I would consider your situation to be one of "severe service" concerning your vehicle.
Does your owners manual mention a "severe service" schedule for oil changes?

I do think you are on the right track in looking for an oil with high TBN to address the possible (likely) water and condensate contamination issues.

Taking into account the conditions you mention; if it were mine frequent oil changes with a high TBN oil would be on the menu.
If I had to pick a number....6 months.
Changing too often in your situation is no vice IMHO.

Umungus mentioned Rotella T5 10w-30 HDEO above.
I think that if this weight is suitable for your application and climate, T5 would be a good choice.

Good luck Sir.

Rickey.

 

[xshoex]

Once a year with 0w40 and a quality filter(wix, mann, etc) would be percect for you.

My jeep gets at most 2k miles a year, not as low as you but still very low, and once a year is what she gets aswell.

 

[ecotourist]

Originally Posted By: rickmeseke
Once a year with 0w40 and a quality filter(wix, mann, etc) would be percect for you.

And do the annual change in the spring. Don't want that stuff sitting there all summer. I think you should also treat yourself and the car to a longer road trip (at least 60 miles) about every 3 months.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: Quartz

Also, FWIW, on a weekly trip down the street to the store, the engine gets to around 75% normal temp in the five minutes it takes to get there. Sometimes I'll idle in the lot for a bit but I know idling too much is also a problem so I'm not sure what to do there either. Unfortunately, the roads here mean that there isn't really a "long way around" so much as driving in the opposite direction and then driving back.



75% of coolant temp is not what the oil temp is at all. Its probably colder. Granted a turbo probably heats it up faster than an n/a, it still probably takes 20 minutes to get the sump hot.

 

[AandPDan]

Do an oil analysis to see how your current oil is doing.

Short trips means more contamination. The oil doesn't warm up enough to burn off moisture or fuel.

I'd stick with a conventional and change it more often. No need for a synthetic.

 

[RISUPERCREWMAN]

Dude you need to get out more! How long do your car's battery last? Geez

 

[Garak]

Worrying about a synthetic in a turbo if your trips don't exceed a couple miles isn't necessary. Your oil won't even be at operating temperature, much less a temperature that's going to cause it any degradation.

 

[BrocLuno]

I agree, but I don't think that's the issue. I think it's cold oil all the time. So which will lube better cold all the time?

I'd likely run the thinnest syn-blend that I could and that the manual will allow all fall/winter when I know the sump is cold most of the time.

Change up one "weight" for spring/summer since you are doing 1/2 yearly anyway. Take advantage of the schedule and make it work for you. I agree on the high TBN oils too.

I duuno if you can get thin HDEO's where you are, but I'd be leaning in that direction for the add pak

Rotella T5 would be in the hunt if it were me ...

 

[Quartz]

So, I looked again but I don't see anything in the books about different schedules for normal/severe/etc, just the single disclaimer about at least 75000/12months.

The closest anything I can find is that the books say it needs ILSAC GF-3, API SL, or ACEA A1/B1. Normal is conventional 5W-30, but for "extreme engine operation" synthetic SAE 0W-30 or 0W-40 is recommended. Also, it says any kind of fuel or oil additive is strictly prohibited (not that I've ever used any).

 

[Garak]

If it were me, I'd run the 5w-30, unless it starts consuming oil. When I had the old Audi 200 Turbo 5 cylinder, it would consume a lot of oil on 5w-30, but 0w-40 and 5w-40 were fine. So, I stuck to those two grads, particularly in the winter. I don't like to use synthetic in an oil burner, but this vehicle didn't consume the 40 grades, so it didn't matter.