hunting tecumseh 11 hp .

[browning300wsm]

update ..[1] thanks for all the reply's ...i sprayed carb cleaner down that idle circuit hole , then i used compressed air to clean all the passages ..reinstalled everything ,started her up and no more surge or hunting ..idle is now steady and ok ...

 

[Boss302fan]

Originally Posted By: browning300wsm
update ..[1] thanks for all the reply's ...i sprayed carb cleaner down that idle circuit hole , then i used compressed air to clean all the passages ..reinstalled everything ,started her up and no more surge or hunting ..idle is now steady and ok ...


Good job. This year I ran a little Kreen through the first tank of use during the winter because I had a little surging. My tecumseh 8.5 now runs very smooth at idle and does not surge.

 

[Vikas]

Originally Posted By: browning300wsm
update ..[1] thanks for all the reply's ...i sprayed carb cleaner down that idle circuit hole , then i used compressed air to clean all the passages ..reinstalled everything ,started her up and no more surge or hunting ..idle is now steady and ok ...


What did you take off before re-installing? I have 9.5HP one which could use some help.

 

[browning300wsm]

What did you take off before re-installing? I have 9.5HP one which could use some help.
[/quote]

reoved the metal guard ..choke plate to get better access ..fuel bowel.. also noticed that i don't have a fuel filter you can be sure i will install one before next winter ..

 

[JimPghPA]

Now that you have it clean, before you store it you want to be sure it will not clog again. Some kind of fuel treatment in a heavy dose like 2X in the last small bit of fuel it runs would be a good idea. StaBil or RedLine SL-1 would be my top choices. I now use RedLine SL-1.

Run it dry (till it stops) then remove carb bowl, and hit that idle passage and the main jet with some WD-40.

The ethanol in the fuel now days leaves a film on everything. StaBil or RedLine SL-1 fight this. But I like WD-40 as real insurance against moisture causing problems.

Ethanol left in the film from the fuel pulls moisture (water molecules) right out of the air. Ethanol + water makes glacial-acitic-acid, a mild acid also known as vinegar. Unfortunately over time it is strong enough to corrode the metal in the carb, including the small passage for the idle.

PS. Glad you got it working good.

 

[JimPghPA]

Also if it does not have an inline fuel filter add one.

 

[JimPghPA]

After the last use every year for a snow blower, if it has sheer pins, remove the sheer pins, disassemble clean inside and shaft, grease and reassemble. If this part of your snow blower is not serviced and rust the sheer pin will not sheer if you hit something like a rock, and the result will be major damage when you could of got away with just a busted sheer pin. Use new sheer pins if old ones are bent. Some use a bolt for the sheer pin. If it is a bolt be sure you use the same grade metal.

 

[browning300wsm]

Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Also if it does not have an inline fuel filter add one.


no Jim it does not have a fuel filter ..as soon as spring has arrived i will install a FUEL filter ..thanks again for your input ..

 

[JimPghPA]

Now that you are a BITOGer you goats-ta change that oil before your put it away, and foam the cylinder with either some Sta-Bil foaming oil or at least a spoon full of some fresh Xw-30 and a few pulls on the rope. (Put a rag over spark-plug hole so it does not splash over everything). Then put the plug back in and pull rope and stop on a compression stroke so moisture can not condense into the cylinder, and so the valve springs are not in full compression. Baby that engine like that and it will outlast the rest of the machine.

 

[JimPghPA]

Do not foam the cylinder every time you use it in the winter, if you do you will foul the plug in 3 to 7 uses.