4 year old snow blower ..changed oil ..installed new plug..fresh fuel ..starts right away all the time .but it will not run normal ..goveror is constantly hunting ,i can see the rod move in and out ..if i load up with snow it stops hunting because the governer is wide open ..all the jets are sealed on the carb .i cleaned the carb and it did not cure the problem ..
hunting tecumseh 11 hp .
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put a new diaphram in the carb, ethanol in the fuel deforms them
Originally Posted By: Roadkingnc
put a new diaphram in the carb, ethanol in the fuel deforms them
the carb has no diaphram ..
SERIES 10 (EMISSION)
The Series 10 carburetor is identical to the Series 8
carburetor with the addition of a choke to assist in cold
weather starts. It also has a fixed idle and main. The idle
restrictor jet will be capped to prevent access unless the
cap is removed. The fixed main jet is part of the bowl nut.
A ball plug is visible from the bottom, which seals the
metering passage. This carburetor also has a serviceable
main nozzle emulsion tube and a stepped primer bulb to
assist in starting. (diag. 20)
put a new diaphram in the carb, ethanol in the fuel deforms them
the carb has no diaphram ..
SERIES 10 (EMISSION)
The Series 10 carburetor is identical to the Series 8
carburetor with the addition of a choke to assist in cold
weather starts. It also has a fixed idle and main. The idle
restrictor jet will be capped to prevent access unless the
cap is removed. The fixed main jet is part of the bowl nut.
A ball plug is visible from the bottom, which seals the
metering passage. This carburetor also has a serviceable
main nozzle emulsion tube and a stepped primer bulb to
assist in starting. (diag. 20)
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my bad, i have been fighting this on my 2 stroke stuff. must have some trash somewhere
Did you take it apart and clean/ blow the passages out with compressed air?
Originally Posted By: Roadkingnc
Did you take it apart and clean/ blow the passages out with compressed air?
yes and no results
Did you take it apart and clean/ blow the passages out with compressed air?
yes and no results
Originally Posted By: dave123
I thought I have read the carbs on that series just flat out run lean. Will it clear up if you lightly prime the carb while running?
if i choke it slightly it runs better ..it is running too lean.
I thought I have read the carbs on that series just flat out run lean. Will it clear up if you lightly prime the carb while running?
if i choke it slightly it runs better ..it is running too lean.
Did you remove the idle screw and be sure that the little passage behind the choke plate is clear, replace the idle screw, and then use a new black ring gasket that seals the carb bowl?
Also be sure the little white plastic part is still in the hole on the throttle where the rod from the governor linkage connects up.
Sounds to me like there is something in the governor circuit, like the spring or something messed up. It could be the part of the governor inside the engine that is bad. If the linkage coming out of the engine moves when the RPM go from idle to full than it probably is good inside the engine. If you could look at a similar linkage on a Tecumseh engine on a snow blower or even a generator you might see something that your linkage is not doing. There is an adjustment that requires a screw be tight to complete the linkage. The tight screw just locks the angle that those two pieces stay at as they move. If that screw was loose the governor would not work.
Also be sure the little white plastic part is still in the hole on the throttle where the rod from the governor linkage connects up.
Sounds to me like there is something in the governor circuit, like the spring or something messed up. It could be the part of the governor inside the engine that is bad. If the linkage coming out of the engine moves when the RPM go from idle to full than it probably is good inside the engine. If you could look at a similar linkage on a Tecumseh engine on a snow blower or even a generator you might see something that your linkage is not doing. There is an adjustment that requires a screw be tight to complete the linkage. The tight screw just locks the angle that those two pieces stay at as they move. If that screw was loose the governor would not work.
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Ps: If you were looking for a Tecumseh engine to compare the governor linkage just about any 8 or 10 HP snow blower or generator witn a Tecumseh should have a similar linkage set-up.
the linkage coming out of the engine moves .i checked the screw for the linkage and it is solid .all the springs are in they're place and working .i can't be running low on fuel because when i plow into a 2 foot snow bank going w.o throttle it never stalls or lags ..i do all of my mechanical work . my old 1977 snow blower had a screw on the bottom of the bowl and all i had to do was turn it 1/4 of a turn counterclock wise and it would clear the "surge"
I would bet on the balck gasket for the carb bowl being dried out enough to leak air, or small hole for the idle circuit to breathe located behind the choke plate being cloged.
I like to blast some WD-40 down that small hole to see that it is open. WD-40 in it after final shut-down before storage insures that it will not be cloged the next time you use it.
The ethanol in fuel leavs a filim that pulls moisture right out of the air and that can cause carbs to corode. WD-40 fight this. Fuel additives like Sta-Bil or RedLine SL-1 also are good to help prevent this problem.
Any air leak such as a bad gasket after the carb will lean out an engine. There is a white felt washer on the throtle that should be oiled to help it seal.
I like to blast some WD-40 down that small hole to see that it is open. WD-40 in it after final shut-down before storage insures that it will not be cloged the next time you use it.
The ethanol in fuel leavs a filim that pulls moisture right out of the air and that can cause carbs to corode. WD-40 fight this. Fuel additives like Sta-Bil or RedLine SL-1 also are good to help prevent this problem.
Any air leak such as a bad gasket after the carb will lean out an engine. There is a white felt washer on the throtle that should be oiled to help it seal.
Some say to use a fine wire to clean out that small breather for the idle. It is risky. if the wire breaks off it it you could have a tough time getting it out. If you can spray something down that idle circuit hole with the idle screw removed and it makes it through to the idle screw and or down into the bowl than that passage is OK.
Look behind the choke plate on the floor of the air passage into the carb before the main jet. It is just behind the pivot point for the choke plate.
Look behind the choke plate on the floor of the air passage into the carb before the main jet. It is just behind the pivot point for the choke plate.
For the fine wire you want one strand from a multi strand wire.
ok will look into it tomorrow morning ..thanks for the feed back
If there is a black screw on the side of the carb it is the screw for the idle. Remove that screw to check that the idle passage is open.
If you can't find new black bowl gasket anywhere local try partstree online.
The way I remember it, if the idle screw has a black plastic cap on it, that means it is non adjustable and is simply turned all the way in. Do not over-tighten.
If there is no plastic cap on the idle screw than it is adjustable, and you must adjust it. This is done by finding the minimum and maximum that it runs good at and leaving it at the middle of that.
If there is no plastic cap on the idle screw than it is adjustable, and you must adjust it. This is done by finding the minimum and maximum that it runs good at and leaving it at the middle of that.
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
The way I remember it, if the idle screw has a black plastic cap on it, that means it is non adjustable and is simply turned all the way in. Do not over-tighten.
If there is no plastic cap on the idle screw than it is adjustable, and you must adjust it. This is done by finding the minimum and maximum that it runs good at and leaving it at the middle of that.
yes it has a black plastic cap .i removed it and the idle screw to clean it ..i didn't over-tighten it when i reinstalled it ..
The way I remember it, if the idle screw has a black plastic cap on it, that means it is non adjustable and is simply turned all the way in. Do not over-tighten.
If there is no plastic cap on the idle screw than it is adjustable, and you must adjust it. This is done by finding the minimum and maximum that it runs good at and leaving it at the middle of that.
yes it has a black plastic cap .i removed it and the idle screw to clean it ..i didn't over-tighten it when i reinstalled it ..
If the rig does what you need it to do ,despite the poor idle, you may not have a trouble and the engine is tuned as well as it can be and meet EPA rules. Granted, a surging idle, isnt "right" Also, with a cruddy running carb, the first thing I try is a few ounces of B12 Chem-Tool in the gas. Could an adjustable main jet be retro-fitted?
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