HPL no VII pcmo 5w30. 3.5k miles. Big turbo Fiesta ST 175k miles

Nice. Big wang gang eh haha. What tires you run? I had the rt660’s and was very happy.
I have 2 sets of wheels. The daily’s have neogens. The others have r888r’s. I only bust out the Toyos if I know I’m going to the canyons or for a cruise with some friends.
 
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I have 2 sets of wheels. The daily’s have neogens. The others have r888r’s. I only bust out the Toyos if I know I’m going to the canyons or for a cruise with some friends.
Nice. Mine was a dedicated canyon car. Once i put in the lsd i couldnt justify the tripl8’s, it stuck real well.
 
I see no justification for changing this oil at this mileage. The fuel dilution is only 2.7% which isn't alarming to me since the KV100 is still in 30 grade range, the TBN is still >8, oxidation is practically non-existent, and no signs of wear metals increasing. I don't worry about fuel dilution until ~5% or when the oil is diluted out of grade.

Do you monitor oil temp? Ethanol's boiling point is 174°F so it should evaporate out if the oil temp is above that point. Usually street driven engines (or any that see full temp) on E85 don't have a major dilution issue due to that low boiling point. It's possible that your oil is only getting above that temp for short periods, not long enough to evaporate out the accumulation from warmup. This sample was also pulled in the dead of winter so fuel dilution is expected to be higher anyway. Regardless, I don't see a problem here. Keep on boosting.

Also, this makes me miss my Focus. I had an '07 with an FSW turbo (2860RS) that made 275 whp @ 12 psi and ran 12.8x @ 105-107 in the 1/4 mile. I miss that little car.
This.

The wear is very low for a modified engine in spite of the fuel. Keep on trucking.

David
 
This suggestion would mean more if it came from @High Performance Lubricants instead of me, as I am just a hack, but I would consider trying the NoVII EURO 10w30 for shts &giggles…since money wasn’t mentioned as a constraint. It might last longer (more viscosity headroom against fuel dilution). But Dave would know more about compatibility of the Euro’s add pack vs your ethanol brew…I’m just looking at viscosity and your climate there in S Cal. If your goal was to reduce fuel dilution, it would be interesting to try E10 for an OCI…if you could show your face after the decreased performance. But maybe try that AFTER you decided on an oil…so you don’t confuse oil-type vs gas-type for any possible improvement. Of course, how you drove that particular OCI, climate, how you sampled, and Oil Analysers attitude the day of the test could have a bigger effect on the FD reading than which oil.

By the way, I’m glad I live 1000 miles away from you, as I’m not the best user of a rear view mirror.
 
This suggestion would mean more if it came from @High Performance Lubricants instead of me, as I am just a hack, but I would consider trying the NoVII EURO 10w30 for shts &giggles…since money wasn’t mentioned as a constraint. It might last longer (more viscosity headroom against fuel dilution). But Dave would know more about compatibility of the Euro’s add pack vs your ethanol brew…I’m just looking at viscosity and your climate there in S Cal. If your goal was to reduce fuel dilution, it would be interesting to try E10 for an OCI…if you could show your face after the decreased performance. But maybe try that AFTER you decided on an oil…so you don’t confuse oil-type vs gas-type for any possible improvement. Of course, how you drove that particular OCI, climate, how you sampled, and Oil Analysers attitude the day of the test could have a bigger effect on the FD reading than which oil.

By the way, I’m glad I live 1000 miles away from you, as I’m not the best user of a rear view mirror.
I am very interested in the euro version. I don’t see why I couldn’t use it unless it’s lspi prone (which I highly doubt even with its calcium level)
 
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