HPL Engine cleaner / 2015 Volvo XC60 high oil consumption progress report

[RYDMOTO]

Do you plan on using their oil? The cleaner is just an initial and the oil must be used the rest of the way. If HPL cleans up that mess I’m sold. Please keep us updated.

That is a good question. At this point in time I will be using the Volvo specified oil that Castrol has along with Liqui Moly. I can catch free shipping on a few websites seeing I change the oil on 3 Volvos that use the 0W20. On this particular XC60, it had used the formerly specd 5W30 oil which likely contributed to the oil consumption issue. Once the oil drains are opened,I would hope the Volvo V 0W20 will keep things flowing.I might just do 6k oil changes and not wait the 10k miles.The 10k oil change you see on my first post had the Volvo specd oil in it. That tells me that oil does not have a high amount of cleaner in it as I saw quick results with the HPL cleaner oil.So the Volvo oil might maintain a properly maintained Volvo 4 cylinder but will not clean a engine with consumption issues. I wont rule out HPL oil use as I believe they do have a more robust oil additive package along with higher quality synthetic oil base.

Don't you just love BITOG? Where else can you find these discoveries and input from other enthusiasts?

 

[priler]

I would go another round but this time use HPL entirely. They have another line that has more ester than the cleaner. I would go 2 OCI with it.

 

[RYDMOTO]

I would go another round but this time use HPL entirely. They have another line that has more ester than the cleaner. I would go 2 OCI with it.

Duly noted Priler. The HPL EC does state "concentrated" on the label. Can I go from 5 quarts 0w20 to 1 quart HPL EC to 4 quarts 0w20 to 2 quarts HPL EC and accomplish the same thing? The first round would be considered more gentle on the engine's filtration so as to not overwhelm it with debris from the cleansing. Considering the spark plugs condition in the picture, that is due to the oil being burned during combustion which by theory the resulting ash would exit the combustion chamber via the exhaust AND being scraped into the crankcase via the piston rings. It would be safe to say the crankcase is gunked up to a fair amount thus the incremental increase in HPL EC.
This is confirmed by my WAG test - wild ass guess. I could use my SWAG test - scientific wild ass guess and have the oil and filter tested for particulates. This is where a oil pressure gauge would be very helpful. I will cut up the 10k and 2k filters to see if anything is observable under magnification and decide from there. Some people say I over think things to which I respond that I didn't mean to overwhelm you with common sense.

Your thoughts and opinions are most welcome.

 

[ARB1977]

That is a good question. At this point in time I will be using the Volvo specified oil that Castrol has along with Liqui Moly. I can catch free shipping on a few websites seeing I change the oil on 3 Volvos that use the 0W20. On this particular XC60, it had used the formerly specd 5W30 oil which likely contributed to the oil consumption issue. Once the oil drains are opened,I would hope the Volvo V 0W20 will keep things flowing.I might just do 6k oil changes and not wait the 10k miles.The 10k oil change you see on my first post had the Volvo specd oil in it. That tells me that oil does not have a high amount of cleaner in it as I saw quick results with the HPL cleaner oil.So the Volvo oil might maintain a properly maintained Volvo 4 cylinder but will not clean a engine with consumption issues. I wont rule out HPL oil use as I believe they do have a more robust oil additive package along with higher quality synthetic oil base.

Don't you just love BITOG? Where else can you find these discoveries and input from other enthusiasts?

What kills me is how people just say F it and give up. Time to get something new. Seeing an engine get new life brings me joy, lol. Good luck on your journey. Keep us posted.

 

[priler]

Duly noted Priler. The HPL EC does state "concentrated" on the label. Can I go from 5 quarts 0w20 to 1 quart HPL EC to 4 quarts 0w20 to 2 quarts HPL EC and accomplish the same thing? The first round would be considered more gentle on the engine's filtration so as to not overwhelm it with debris from the cleansing. Considering the spark plugs condition in the picture, that is due to the oil being burned during combustion which by theory the resulting ash would exit the combustion chamber via the exhaust AND being scraped into the crankcase via the piston rings. It would be safe to say the crankcase is gunked up to a fair amount thus the incremental increase in HPL EC.
This is confirmed by my WAG test - wild ass guess. I could use my SWAG test - scientific wild ass guess and have the oil and filter tested for particulates. This is where a oil pressure gauge would be very helpful. I will cut up the 10k and 2k filters to see if anything is observable under magnification and decide from there. Some people say I over think things to which I respond that I didn't mean to overwhelm you with common sense.

Your thoughts and opinions are most welcome.

You could do it that way, incrementally, but i would use HPL fully and instead change out the filter more often. Keeping in mind that most filters are usually about 20 microns i would also not do extended drains, about 3000 miles at most, perhaps even less, for several OCIs. It's a little extra money but your trying to solve a problem and worth it. I would continue using it until i was satisfied and then eventually extend the drains to normal with it.

Call HPL and ask them lots of questions telling them what your trying to do. They remind me of Redline in that they are good in answering questions and giving info on their products which they are proud of. It's really worth it to call them. Try doing that with a corporate behemoth and you'll get a scripted answer.

 

[RYDMOTO]

What kills me is how people just say F it and give up. Time to get something new. Seeing an engine get new life brings me joy, lol. Good luck on your journey. Keep us posted.

ARB. Oil consumption, oh yeah? You think so? Off come the gloves and it's on! It's me and you engine!

Seeing an engine get new life such as a restored Spitfire? Or a Big Boy steam engine?
Yes, great music can bring tears to my eyes but nothing touches the sound of the symphony
of a Merlin engined Spitfir low pass or a Big Boy steam engine pulling a mile long freight or a 6 engine
freight train go by with it's inaudible low frequency chest rumbling power! Glorious!

Non of this can be taught. Either you have it or you don't.

 

[Bullwinkle007]

Those engines are known for high oil consumption due to piston rings. I'm definitely very curious to see what difference HPL EC makes. Mainly because I do plan to eventually replace the Pilot with an XC90 with that engine.

Why would you buy a junk Volvo for? You want electrical problems? And what other problems they’ve.

 

[GR_CoB]

Why would you buy a junk Volvo for? You want electrical problems? And what other problems they’ve.

Might expanding on that? I haven't heard of many of those issues you refer to, so I'm definitely interested. You got one, or had one of those? Or friends/family had some experience with them?

 

[Bullwinkle007]

Might expanding on that? I haven't heard of many of those issues you refer to, so I'm definitely interested. You got one, or had one of those? Or friends/family had some experience with them?

They just have electrical issues. Most of my issues with them were from their semi trucks. I wrenched in them in the 90s. Same have electrical problems, drive train issues. There’s a reason they’re not a dime a dozen like Honda/toyota. Their dealer network is small. Unlike Acura, any Honda dealer will work on them and parts are available. Honda just can’t do warranty work on a Acura. Acura has the best SH-AWD. It’s even been rated better than Audi. You want an SUV. I highly recommend the MDX. the performance and all around blows the competition out of the water. I own a 2015 Acura MDX SH-AWD with Advance Package

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Can I go from 5 quarts 0w20 to 1 quart HPL EC to 4 quarts 0w20 to 2 quarts HPL EC and accomplish the same thing?

This is a bad idea. @High Performance Lubricants went into great detail on EC use and recommendations, and it is clearly stated to not exceed 20% of sump capacity with the EC. It can cause issues with seals. It’s not worth it.

Your engine didn’t become a mess internally overnight; there is no safe way short of full disassembly and hot tanking things to clean it up overnight, either.

 

[OVERKILL]

They just have electrical issues. Most of my issues with them were from their semi trucks. I wrenched in them in the 90s. Same have electrical problems, drive train issues. There’s a reason they’re not a dime a dozen like Honda/toyota. Their dealer network is small. Unlike Acura, any Honda dealer will work on them and parts are available. Honda just can’t do warranty work on a Acura. Acura has the best SH-AWD. It’s even been rated better than Audi. You want an SUV. I highly recommend the MDX. the performance and all around blows the competition out of the water. I own a 2015 Acura MDX SH-AWD with Advance Package

I thought this test was interesting:

 

[UncleDave]

I thought this test was interesting:

Both look pretty competent, it looks like the Jeep slipped a little less to me.

Pretty sure my Ridgeline has the same setup.

Not sure what kind of "mode" prep or button pushing each requires when doing these calisthenics.

Chevy dealers don't do warranty work on GMC's or Caddies, nor Lexus/ Toyota so thats pretty normal Honda and Acura staying separate.

 

[OVERKILL]

Both look pretty competent, it looks like the Jeep slipped a little less to me.

Pretty sure my Ridgeline has the same setup.

Not sure what kind of "mode" prep or button pushing each requires when doing these calisthenics.

Yes, that was my takeaway. The Jeep has a factory e-locker in the rear, which explains its more graceful handling of rear tire spin.

 

[dbias]

i have oil consunption too. mechanics tell me must be from valve stem seals.is there a product for that too? or replacing them is a one way solution?

Try a high mileage oil. Additives in those help seals to swell a little bit and may help with the valve stem seals

 

[UncleDave]

Yes, that was my takeaway. The Jeep has a factory e-locker in the rear, which explains its more graceful handling of rear tire spin.

Looks good. The small block SRT jeep is phat.

I imagine it also does well in a 3 roller test.

Does it have to enter a slow speed mode, or a work within a given speed window to engage or disengage the e-locker mode?

One of the things I dig about the Honda system is that you simply drive and it just works.
It does have modes and you can switch in an out of them at any speed or time.

 

[svenson]

Try a high mileage oil. Additives in those help seals to swell a little bit and may help with the valve stem seals

thanks a lot, do you have any suggestion? one i can find in europe?

 

[OVERKILL]

Looks good. The small block SRT jeep is phat.

I imagine it also does well in a 3 roller test.

Does it have to enter a slow speed mode, or a work within a given speed window to engage or disengage the e-locker mode?

One of the things I dig about the Honda system is that you simply drive and it just works.
It does have modes and you can switch in an out of them at any speed or time.

Don't have to do anything, it just "works" and there's no speed limit or anything that I'm aware of. It's a 60/40 split normally for the AWD, but if you put it in "snow" it cranks up the stability control sensitivity and locks it at 50/50.

 

[Bullwinkle007]

Both look pretty competent, it looks like the Jeep slipped a little less to me.

Pretty sure my Ridgeline has the same setup.

Not sure what kind of "mode" prep or button pushing each requires when doing these calisthenics.

Chevy dealers don't do warranty work on GMC's or Caddies, nor Lexus/ Toyota so thats pretty normal Honda and Acura staying separate.

The MDX is Full time active, rear diff is torque vectoring. Acura is the only one that has SH-AWD which is only available in the MDX, RDX and TLX. Also used to include RL which is discontinued. Less slippage could be a tire difference. Honda uses a total different kind of AWD setup.

 

[Bullwinkle007]

Don't have to do anything, it just "works" and there's no speed limit or anything that I'm aware of. It's a 60/40 split normally for the AWD, but if you put it in "snow" it cranks up the stability control sensitivity and locks it at 50/50.

It will also go into a 10/90 to the rear if you turn off traction control and go drift it on snow. Leave dynamic mode in sport

 

[OVERKILL]

The MDX is Full time active, rear diff is torque vectoring. Acura is the only one that has SH-AWD which is only available in the MDX, RDX and TLX. Also used to include RL which is discontinued. Less slippage could be a tire difference. Honda uses a total different kind of AWD setup.

The slip he's talking about is when the MDX left rear is spinning in the air and it takes a while for it to send power to the right rear. The JGC in the same position only allowed for momentary slip on the left rear before sending power to the right rear. This is done at the diff.

As you note, they are very different systems.