HPL 0w-20 ... More money than sense...

I've decided to switch to HPL's 0W-20 Premium Plus Passenger Car Engine Oil while still doing 5K OCIs with OEM filters on my four Toyotas. The first two vehicles are each around 50K miles. The third is around 15K miles and the last on is brand new.

Before someone accuses me of wasting money by using a premium oil for such a short OCI, which I will NOT be extending, money is not an issue when it comes to maintenance. I want the best and can easily afford it. I want my vehicles to last many hundreds of thousands of miles while having their internals looks nearly new.
I run the HPL 5w20 in our older Ford Taurus and it runs really smooth and quiet
in the old 2003. It's great oil, imho.
 
I recently dealt with a severly overtightened Corolla composite filter.
May not have been really over tightened. Some cartridge filter caps seize to a certain degree regardless if they are tightened correctly or not. Over tightening can certainly aggravate the situation for sure, but some people tighten the cap per manual torque spec and a year later it's still pretty difficult to loosen.
 
I think it is. Last year, Jiffy Lube was $109.99 for a 5qt PP oil change.

Wow! You are right! Just for kicks and giggles, I just ran a Jiffy Lube price quote for my wife's Outback, which holds 5.1 quarts. Jiffy Lube wants $105 for oil/filter change with full synthetic. I wasn't expecting that.

Since I do all my own oil changes, I'm mostly out of touch with what places charge for oil change service. But just a few weeks ago, I took the 2021 Chevy Silverado 2500HD, that belongs to the community food pantry where I volunteer, in for an oil change at the local shop. It takes 8 quarts, and they charged us $90. If I recall correctly from the receipt, they used full synthetic. I guess I wasn't expecting the big chain to be more expensive than a local family gas station/shop.
 
Wow! You are right! Just for kicks and giggles, I just ran a Jiffy Lube price quote for my wife's Outback, which holds 5.1 quarts. Jiffy Lube wants $105 for oil/filter change with full synthetic. I wasn't expecting that.
I just called the local one - their price has gone up to $112.99 for the 5qt PP service.
 
May not have been really over tightened. Some cartridge filter caps seize to a certain degree regardless if they are tightened correctly or not. Over tightening can certainly aggravate the situation for sure, but some people tighten the cap per manual torque spec and a year later it's still pretty difficult to loosen.
Maybe you missed my thread...
 
May not have been really over tightened. Some cartridge filter caps seize to a certain degree regardless if they are tightened correctly or not. Over tightening can certainly aggravate the situation for sure, but some people tighten the cap per manual torque spec and a year later it's still pretty difficult to loosen.


I maybe wrong here Zee but I bet all those heat cycles make that phenomenon happen there.
 
But it's not, right?
Last time I took a vehicle in for an oil change it cost me $130…. In January of 2014 at jiffy lube. Not a dig against them, they deserve to be paid for their work.

I now own 2 vehicles that take a combined 13qts, assuming the same price as back then I’m at roughly $500 just in oil changes twice a year at jiffy lube for both vehicles. 16qts of HPL super car oil is about $230 shipped and $25 for filters that should last me a year in each vehicle. Even if we say screw it and run jiffy lube oil for a year (not saying it can’t, I’m sure it could), I would still have to leave my house and hopefully not have to wait around at the “quick” change place.
 
I've decided to switch to HPL's 0W-20 Premium Plus Passenger Car Engine Oil while still doing 5K OCIs with OEM filters on my four Toyotas. The first two vehicles are each around 50K miles. The third is around 15K miles and the last on is brand new.

Before someone accuses me of wasting money by using a premium oil for such a short OCI, which I will NOT be extending, money is not an issue when it comes to maintenance. I want the best and can easily afford it. I want my vehicles to last many hundreds of thousands of miles while having their internals looks nearly new.
And...point?
 
You definitely pay for the convenience factor and stripped drain bolts.

I don't mind changing the oil on the Colorado. I can get right under it with no ramps. I always properly torque the drain bolt and filter too, so I know it's getting done right.
 
Last time I took a vehicle in for an oil change it cost me $130…. In January of 2014 at jiffy lube. Not a dig against them, they deserve to be paid for their work.

I now own 2 vehicles that take a combined 13qts, assuming the same price as back then I’m at roughly $500 just in oil changes twice a year at jiffy lube for both vehicles. 16qts of HPL super car oil is about $230 shipped and $25 for filters that should last me a year in each vehicle. Even if we say screw it and run jiffy lube oil for a year (not saying it can’t, I’m sure it could), I would still have to leave my house and hopefully not have to wait around at the “quick” change place.
What are your OCIs? Seems like you could certainly make it longer than 1y on 2 OCIs of HPL
 
May not have been really over tightened. Some cartridge filter caps seize to a certain degree regardless if they are tightened correctly or not. Over tightening can certainly aggravate the situation for sure, but some people tighten the cap per manual torque spec and a year later it's still pretty difficult to loosen.
Weirdly, I've NEVER had a problem getting a filter housing off a Toyota when I was the last person to do the filter change but have now twice had a problem (one resulting in the housing cracking) when the dealership did it last.
 
Close to 60 replies, I figured this was going to happen. Tough crowd. This is still America, people can still spend their money the way they want to. The OP wants to use a premium product in his vehicle and not use it to its full ability, so be it. I drive a gas guzzling JK Rubicon, why? Because I want to. That is all the reason in the world imo. Carry on........... ;)
 
I've decided to switch to HPL's 0W-20 Premium Plus Passenger Car Engine Oil while still doing 5K OCIs with OEM filters on my four Toyotas. The first two vehicles are each around 50K miles. The third is around 15K miles and the last on is brand new.

Before someone accuses me of wasting money by using a premium oil for such a short OCI, which I will NOT be extending, money is not an issue when it comes to maintenance. I want the best and can easily afford it. I want my vehicles to last many hundreds of thousands of miles while having their internals looks nearly new.
I'm missing your question here, as your post reads like a statement meant to trigger others into posting their convictions and opinions about motor oil and oil change intervals in general.

This thread is nearly at page four and you haven't provided any feedback to any of the responses you received to your statement, and some of them are really good. So, there is that.

Like everyone else, I will give you my two cents:
Since you want very expensive motor oil for 5K mile OCIs, I think Red Line High Performance 0W-20 is what you should go for. It's not blended for long OCIs to begin with, and at $65 a gallon it fits your budget quite well.
 
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