How would you fix this? - Motorcycle Drain Bolt

I lub mea bike. Urban it's just so nice (spring, summer, fall) to swing a leg over - a quick juant for a chore or small (15 mi or less) camute to wrk (no: door, squish in, seat belt, enclosed'n tight). In the rural, a long run for sights smells & re-energizing. But boy, they're dangerious. Drive defensivly friend...
EDIT
I'ma ol skol guy, like the 2 rear 'coil overs'.
That one - motor not a stressed member of frame, is water cooled, is 1000cc?
What make?
 
chrlsful said:
I lub mea bike. Urban it's just so nice (spring, summer, fall) to swing a leg over - a quick juant for a chore or small (15 mi or less) camute to wrk (no: door, squish in, seat belt, enclosed'n tight). In the rural, a long run for sights smells & re-energizing. But boy, they're dangerious. Drive defensivly friend...
EDIT
I'ma ol skol guy, like the 2 rear 'coil overs'.
That one - motor not a stressed member of frame, is water cooled, is 1000cc?
What make?
Click to expand...
?????
 
I've stopped cracks from spreading in the past by drilling a hole slightly larger diameter than the crack at the end of each crack. Should stop it from continuing. Then fill the crap out of that thing with JB weld or something. You won't need to worry about the crack spreading in my opinion then. Then you could thread another hole or just suck it out the fill hole.

Edit and caveat:. I haven't done it with an oil pan... But the idea is up there for consideration. YMMV.
 
Last edited:
AlpacaBowl said:
Finally this morning, I went out to a machine shop this afternoon and showed them the bike. They agreed that they could likely fix it but would be worried about future cracking and were hesitant to take on the work.
Click to expand...
What was their proposed fix if they would have attempted one?

Seems the shifted piece would have to be moved to the left and back very close to it's original spot if even possible without cracking it more (red arrows), then weld across the cracks and weld some reinforcement along the outside of the hole as shown below. Then the face of the plug hole would have to be filed back flat where the welds went across the sealing area, and the threads chased with the appropriate tap.

1661997046427.png
 
Non-stress area so...sandblast the paint off the area. Hook up vacuum to somewheres on the motor to create a vac in the case. Use brake cleaner or equivalent to clean area. Compressed air the area dry and clean as possible. Mix JB and apply to area with vac running. When area has sufficiently been saturated with JB and sucked into the crack use small visegrip or clamp to pull the separated area tight. Clean threads and be careful not to overtighten plug.

Looks like an impact on the plug broke the boss...not overtightning.
 
This mess going on and your worried about wasting two quarts of oil ? Wow.
Just buy a case or wait for engine failure and buy a new engine. So easy and that way when you replace the engine you dont have to waste two quarts of oil.
Maybe just use used car oil to save more money on the project.
 
Quantico said:
This mess going on and your worried about wasting two quarts of oil ? Wow.
Just buy a case or wait for engine failure and buy a new engine. So easy and that way when you replace the engine you dont have to waste two quarts of oil.
Maybe just use used car oil to save more money on the project.
Click to expand...
Relax
 
Dayyyya-m, no 1978 Kowie parts there.
...........(KZ750B 2 cyl, 4 stroke).............
'83 zit for history.
Looks like a good company tho
 
eddy21 said:
Little better price.

2019 Honda CB300R AC CRANKCASE | Powersports Discount

Shop online for OEM CRANKCASE parts that fit your 2019 Honda CB300R AC, search all our OEM Parts or call at 877-437-1631
www.powersportsdiscount.com www.powersportsdiscount.com
Click to expand...
Might also want to buy that needle bearing and seal (#3 and #14) because they might get damaged if removed and reinstalled. The head bolts (#10) might be a bear to R&R. New ones are only 2.35 each.

Also, not sure how those crankshaft journal bearings (#4) go in the case ... could be pressed in even though they have a split design. Hopefully you can use the existing ones since they are factory sized for the crankshaft. Just some things to think of during the case R&R.
 
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