- Apr 27, 2010
- Suburban Washington DC
Weld up the hole and drill and tap another drain next to it. Or just suck the oil out of the dip stick with a vacuum pump.
If its thin aluminum? ugh....I recently bought a lightly used CB300R in great shape. Only 2,200 miles and I managed to pick it up for a pretty good price. There seems to be only one problem. The PO had the dealership perform the first oil change and they really torqued the drain bolt down to the point when the owner went to perform the second oil change the bolt broke and cracked the case. Again, I bought it this way and the seller simply wanted to offload it instead of dealing with the damage.
I understand replacing the side of the case is the right way to fix this but im open to some other ideas. Ive had experience with Helicoiling and retapping before but not on a bolt this big.
With the cracks, I was thinking that maybe steel stick a Fumoto valve would work as well.
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Trust me, I'd be ok with this if I knew for a fact that I was keeping this bike forever. The reality however is that this bike may change owners one day and buying an extraction pump may just be another extra step which would dissuade some buyers.Weld the plug right into the hole. Use an oil extractor to change. Cheap and done.
If you attempt a repair, I'd drill the drain plug for some safety wire so you can torque it just enough to seal without re-cracking the repair, and then safety wire it so it won't move.I'm going to start making some calls to local places who may specialize in these kinds of repairs. I was recommended to start with Porsche repair since they are usually aluminum and high dollar engines.
I've busted enough cases on the trail to trust Steel Stik and JB weld to a certain point. But the rethreading and spreading of the crack is what concerns me.
Ive drilled and tapped JB weld before but it wasnt for a sump drain.
Thanks again for the helpful replies.
It does. And to split the cases you have to remove the cylinder so it's going to be a complete disassembly. Fortunately the engine can be laid on the right hand side and the cases can be separated without disturbing any of the transmission components. The timing components are on the right hand side but again, the cylinder must be removed to get the cases apart. Even if the cylinder studs could be removed separately there is still the issue of resealing the base of the cylinder.Does this engine really need to be removed from the bike and the cases split to install the new case? Lots of newer bikes have a separate drain pan case that can be removed with the engine in the bike.
Thats exactly it. The plug did sit well but I didnt want to risk dumping a ton of oil.if its a rubber expansion plug it needs a round hole (it 'grows in size' in a 'round way'). That hole is no longer round. Used one ona korean awd rear drive shaft hole so owner could keep using car, parts (junk yrd/dealer/aftr mrkt) - unobtainable, owner -0- $. Blocked up tranny so as to not loose lube, she's still drivin it. Signed a doc here to take full responsibility B4 leavin da shop.
Enjoy the nxt phase: #2. Let's hope 'that is it'/goes well~