With a timing light with this sort of connector:
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/4140/1003802z.jpg
Its probably a 20 year old timing light that has been sitting in an outside storage shed for 10 years or more.
I had the timing belt job done 20,000 miles ago and want to check things out, since I have idle issues as well and want to verify timing wasn't adjusted to mask idle problems. Among other things and simply learning to use a timing light.
I mean, how do I use that connector on cylinder 1? I've seen the other timing lights that simply clamp onto the #1 cylinder's spark plug wire.
Do I need to remove the valve cover + upper timing cover in order to not be fooled by a potentially warped belt cover relative to setting the timing marks?
According to the FSM, at idle it needs to be around 16 degrees BTDC +/- 2 degrees.
ADDED: It also occurred to me that I may need to short the test pins for the ECU that you also use to retrieve any stored trouble codes?
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/4140/1003802z.jpg

Its probably a 20 year old timing light that has been sitting in an outside storage shed for 10 years or more.
I had the timing belt job done 20,000 miles ago and want to check things out, since I have idle issues as well and want to verify timing wasn't adjusted to mask idle problems. Among other things and simply learning to use a timing light.
I mean, how do I use that connector on cylinder 1? I've seen the other timing lights that simply clamp onto the #1 cylinder's spark plug wire.
Do I need to remove the valve cover + upper timing cover in order to not be fooled by a potentially warped belt cover relative to setting the timing marks?
According to the FSM, at idle it needs to be around 16 degrees BTDC +/- 2 degrees.
ADDED: It also occurred to me that I may need to short the test pins for the ECU that you also use to retrieve any stored trouble codes?
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