how much power is too much power?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: used_0il
It's all about power to weight. 13,200 hp pulling 25,000 tons up a 1% grade is the most fun you can have at 9mph.
(GE AC44 X3)


I've always wondered, do you get a quantifiable amount of wheel slip?
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: 02SE
I don't ride or drive anything, to impress others.



That's very admirable of you, but, around here at least, EVERY one of those cars (as well as all Priuses, new bugs, most Miatas and Minis, and some other marques) have equal signs, and rainbow stickers on them.

So, if one does not want to worry about their orientation being mistaken in these parts, it is 'safer' to not be in one of those marques.
wink.gif




I'd rock an equality sticker if I didn't dislike the idea of stickers on my car. I also might have bought an MX-5 if I didn't need back seats (though more likely an S2000).

My orientation is my business and my wife's. Anyone else can pound sand. Likewise, the orientation of a Prius or Mini driver is none of my business, stickers or no. I do dislike Minis and Priuses, though. But only because I think they're terrible cars. :-P

Count me in with the "don't buy a car to impress people" bunch. The vast majority of people I talk to feel that switching from a '96 M3 to an '11 RX-8 was a downgrade. Does that sting sometimes? Sure. But it'll be a cold day in [censored] when I pay a dime or sacrifice on what I want in a car just to satisfy someone else's opinion.
 
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Anything more than 88 HP is a waste.

You were probably kidding with this, but I do think there's a strong argument to be made along these lines.

I think economy cars should have no more than 200 hp, more upscale sedans and coupes should have no more than 300-350 hp, and none of them should be heavy enough that they're slow with those power levels.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: gregoron
Too much power is when the chassis, brakes, and driver cannot handle the speed from a given throttle input.


Yup, this. My time in a Hellcat demonstrated that 707HP is quite streetable when the car is setup for it.


Exactly. And with modern safety systems in place it can actually be quite safe and entertaining.

Actually I buy cars just like Doodfood, just for me. I spend most of my driving in 9000 pound service vans, so the last thing I want to drive is something that has zero entertainment value...
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Anything more than 88 HP is a waste.

You were probably kidding with this, but I do think there's a strong argument to be made along these lines.

I think economy cars should have no more than 200 hp, more upscale sedans and coupes should have no more than 300-350 hp, and none of them should be heavy enough that they're slow with those power levels.
We'll put you in charge of telling everybody else what they "need". Ten Hut!
 
Originally Posted By: Brad_C
Originally Posted By: used_0il
It's all about power to weight. 13,200 hp pulling 25,000 tons up a 1% grade is the most fun you can have at 9mph.
(GE AC44 X3)


I've always wondered, do you get a quantifiable amount of wheel slip?
Slip is controlled by wheel speed sensors.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: gregoron
Too much power is when the chassis, brakes, and driver cannot handle the speed from a given throttle input.


Yup, this. My time in a Hellcat demonstrated that 707HP is quite streetable when the car is setup for it.
Until a chip fries in a fast corner. See Ya!
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: gregoron
Too much power is when the chassis, brakes, and driver cannot handle the speed from a given throttle input.


Yup, this. My time in a Hellcat demonstrated that 707HP is quite streetable when the car is setup for it.
Until a chip fries in a fast corner. See Ya!


I've never had a "chip fry" in a car. I've had a sensor fail however. The odds of a "chip frying" are quite low. And the car would probably go into limp mode if something like that happened to protect itself and the driver.
 
Originally Posted By: hansj3
I know it varies, but how much is too much?
my friend has a Hyundai Tiburon that he just has the need to modify. the community says to start with intake, headers, and exhaust and he's following that but he also seems to have grandiose thoughts of rebuilding the engine for a boatload of boost.
My thought is to shoot for an attainable power level, and enjoy what you have done instead of shooting for the moon. My thought is cars that are too light with too much power are not as much fun as a moderately modded car. Its going to be a daily driver.
(I've asked why and he just seems to have to do it)
The car is kinda like a civic, how much power is too much in one of those? And why


I can answer this with reasonably experienced authority.
smile.gif
As I've been driving high HP cars, and building turbo cars since the late 1970's.

All of the below are without any traction control. This is common among highly modified cars with aftermarket ECU's.

First, my 2375 pound turbo Miata made 385 uncorrected RWHP on a 93 degree day (obviously far more on a cool day) . Even with a torsen limited slip, and the stickiest street legal fat rubber, 3/4 throttle in 3rd gear would spin both tires starting at 65MPH. In other words, I could drive down I-95 at the speed limit, put it in 3rd and ease on the gas. They'd spin, even with a pax. And it was difficult to control. Call it boost onrush, or whatever, that car was a handful.

A recent 700HP C6 aftermarket supercharged 'vette did the same thing. Wild tire spin at high speeds as high as 80. Simply unsafe, and honestly, not much fun.

My current turbocharged 2800 pound, 407 true HP, Honda S2000 (taller gearing here) won't spin the tires in 3rd, no matter what. In other words, it has enough weight to get traction at higher speeds. This makes it considerably easier to drive. It also makes less real-world HP than my miata did. MUCH BETTER. I do not need more. In fact, what I'd like is less top end and more midrange.

The bottom line is, (with good tires) 600HP is a rough practical limit for a 3300-3400 pound car. 400HP is about the practical limit for a 2400 pound car. 450HP is about the practical limit for a 2800 pound car. More than that results in highway speed wheelspin, which becomes problematic, as loss of control results in very high speed crashes.

Edit: cars in this power to weight range are solidly 11 second cars. Fast enough to be an absolute blast. With enough traction to be able to use it at practical speeds.

miata_resize.jpg


MaKGi0o.jpg
 
Last edited:
It's interesting to realize just how little power you might use on a normal drive, just keeping up with eveyday traffic.

I swear, driving my Toyota around town and home again on the back roads. I don't use more than 25-30 hp.
and that's just normal driving.

In the city I see many cars not even using 5% of their potential.
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d

Count me in with the "don't buy a car to impress people" bunch. The vast majority of people I talk to feel that switching from a '96 M3 to an '11 RX-8 was a downgrade. Does that sting sometimes? Sure. But it'll be a cold day in [censored] when I pay a dime or sacrifice on what I want in a car just to satisfy someone else's opinion.


There is a classic BMW "wearer" who posts in the car forums at Edmunds.com. He has an F10 535i xDrive with the sport package and believes that boring sled is the greatest thing since sliced bread. The fool can't comprehend that I would rather drive my MS3 or a Charger R/T Scat Pack over his wallowing marshmallow of a snooze-mobile. His head almost exploded when another participant sold his F10 5er and replaced it with a new Mazda3 GT. I informed the idiot F10 fan that I drive what makes me smile and that I don't select cars on the basis of how often it attracts envious glances or how well it telegraphs my disposable income to other motorists.
Moron.
 
There are many who believe traction control, and stability control tame very high HP cars into being fun instead of a "handful" . I'm not 100% convinced.

The problem is that the traction limit must first be reached, then the power reduction occurs. I find this to be rather unpredictable at lower speeds and under varying conditions. So, performance is not consistent. Watch certain high HP cars at an autocross, with the TC and stability control on, and you will see what seems to be excessive electronic intervention and a very frustrated driver.

The latest generation is far better. For example, the C7 Corvette has various settings for electronic intervention. The track setting gives the driver more authority, and far more rapid throttle response. On the course, with a competent driver, the car remains in control, while pushing the tires to the limits. On the street in "track mode" with an average driver, it's a bit different and less than smooth.

In my opinion, it's more fun to drive a responsive, but somewhat lower HP car without serious traction problems. The classic sports car...
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet

The problem is that the traction limit must first be reached, then the power reduction occurs.


That's not quite true anymore.

Torque management is always there, in the background, smoothing out all the dumb things a driver may do... far before the limits of traction are reached. It's not power reduction, per say, but rather torque smoothing.

This is why a 707 HP Hellcat or 650 HP Z06 are so easy to drive and benign: There are no transient torque spikes. Power always comes on smoothly, never in a massive rush. There are no huge torque spikes during downshifts. Even with traction and stability control off, torque management is still there.

Much of the magic of GM's Performance Traction Management on the Corvette, Camaro, and V-Series is torque management. Think of it of interpreting what the driver *wants* the car to do, based on steering input, brake application, and vehicle dynamic motion... not what he is actually doing with the throttle. It filters the I/O before traction or stability control has to intervene. Traction and stability control are part of the overall PTM package too, but torque management it doing its best to prevent them from even being used. Of course, if you think you're a better driver than PTM (you probably area't), you can shut it all down and see how fast you go four-off.

I cringe when I hear people talk about turning off torque management with a tune. A new 6.2L full size GM truck will run 13.9 all day... but it won't do a two-block burnout by just mashing on the gas, even with traction control off. Despite all evidence to the contrary, people think this is "slow" and start fiddling with things. These are the guys you see at the boat launch who can get their boat out of the water because of wheelspin on the ramp.
 
The main reason I bought an aftermarket tuner was to be able to "dial back" the traction and stability controls in my car.

With factory tune: zero wheelspin. None. Big time yaw intervention even at slower speeds with any rotation.

With aftermarket tune: just enough wheelspin to let you play a bit, and later intervention when it slips a bit. It's so perfect I rarely turn it off. Yet one night in a deer incident it really reigned in the rear end.

This can be good stuff, it's the programming and integration of all systems that is the key...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
The main reason I bought an aftermarket tuner was to be able to "dial back" the traction and stability controls in my car..


[censored] straight. What fun is it if you can't get bent out of shape once in a while. Tire chirping shifts are fun. Bonus points for getting rubber on both rear tires.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
The main reason I bought an aftermarket tuner was to be able to "dial back" the traction and stability controls in my car.

With factory tune: zero wheelspin. None. Big time yaw intervention even at slower speeds with any rotation.

With aftermarket tune: just enough wheelspin to let you play a bit, and later intervention when it slips a bit. It's so perfect I rarely turn it off. Yet one night in a deer incident it really reigned in the rear end.

This can be good stuff, it's the programming and integration of all systems that is the key...


Dodge must have learned from this as the nannies on my '14 are very transparent and allow you to get a way with a fair bit before intervention begins. Basically, they don't get in the way of the fun factor
smile.gif
 
Mark Donohue's definition of enough power: If you can spin the tires all the way down the longest straight of any racetrack.
 
Originally Posted By: T-Bone
This reminds me of a great statement by Mark Donohue:

"If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower."


Drat. You beat me to it!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom