How many "thick oil users" here?

Pennzoil motor oil
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My father runs 10W40 in everything inc his new Ford Escape Ecoboost and he says it starts fine below zero. He says 20 weight oils are good to put on pancakes!

I run Mobil 1 0W40 in my 4.0 V6 Nissan Pathfinder without issue.
 
Originally Posted By: Olas
10w40 all year round - my owners manual says it is good from minus 22c to positive 35c.

Oh No !!!!
It's going to be 37 C here today and I'm running a 40 grade !!! I better change it out for something thicker.

To me thick starts at 15W40 (boarder line) and goes up from there: 20W50, 10W60, etc

The middle grades are the 30's and the light 40's (0W40, 5W40, etc) The PCMO's with a HTHS less than 3.7 cP.

The light weighs are 20 and 16 grades.

The two boarder grades are an ILSAC 5W30 at the bottom end of the middle, and 15W40 at the top end of the middle.

But to answer your question OP, I spent years (decades) on nothing but Castrol EDGE 10W60 synthetic, Penrite 20W60 mineral, with the occasional GTX 20W50 and DuraBlend 10W40 for diversity.

Right now I'm using SynPower 0W40, but after speaking to Joe on the thread below, I'm thinking of going back to a Group 2 mineral 15W40

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4293744/
 
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: Olas
10w40 all year round - my owners manual says it is good from minus 22c to positive 35c.

Oh No !!!!
It's going to be 37 C here today and I'm running a 40 grade !!! I better change it out for something thicker.

To me thick starts at 15W40 (boarder line) and goes up from there: 20W50, 10W60, etc

The middle grades are the 30's and the light 40's (0W40, 5W40, etc) The PCMO's with a HTHS less than 3.7 cP.

The light weighs are 20 and 16 grades.

The two boarder grades are an ILSAC 5W30 at the bottom end of the middle, and 15W40 at the top end of the middle.

But to answer your question OP, I spent years (decades) on nothing but Castrol EDGE 10W60 synthetic, Penrite 20W60 mineral, with the occasional GTX 20W50 and DuraBlend 10W40 for diversity.

Right now I'm using SynPower 0W40, but after speaking to Joe on the thread below, I'm thinking of going back to a Group 2 mineral 15W40

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4293744/


In your climate I'd use 20w50 in the winter and 40w70 in the summer. We all know thicker is better
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
20W-50 seems to be the boogeyman of Bitog..... i would never use it in something that specs a 30 grade oil.

I would, nothing much happens, everything still works. Assuming it's not well below freezing.

Lots of Corolla's, Civic's, etc in Australia have run 20W50.

Silk in NZ puts Penrite 40-70 (no W rating on that sucker) in an older Corolla.
 
Originally Posted By: Olas

In your climate I'd use 20w50 in the winter and 40w70 in the summer. We all know thicker is better
wink.gif


You my friend, would fit in very well around here.

Would you eat Vegemite toast for breakfast, then sit on the beach or under a gum tree for hours drinking beer ?
 
The makers of these engines spend millions in R&D and after reading some of the posts here i am thinking what a waste of time and money..
They should just ask some of the member here on Bitog what they should use in the engines they design and build after all someone here has a new ford that calls for 20 weight but he or his dad uses 10w40 because he uses 20 weight on his "pancakes" then there is the guy that uses 15w40 because he "steals it from work"
Then there is the one that uses 10w40 and a bottle of STP.
I was thinking why not all STP... What does STP stand for anyway??? Stop Those Pistons????
I was thinking of all those poor engines that get the oil that is printed on the oil cap... Then i am thinking i should have never sold the engine shop because if people use what the oil cap says to use their will be lots of engines needing rebuilds...

Seriously people use what the engine builders say to use.
 
Originally Posted By: hatt
I want to play. 15w30 HDEO.


By golly, that qualifies for getting in the game!

True enough, the engineers at the OEM spend a lot of money in R&D. Then accountants, corporate, and most of all, Gooberment gets into the act and puts their thumb on the scale of what actually makes it out into the owner's manual about what to use.
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
after all someone here has a new ford that calls for 20 weight but he or his dad uses 10w40

Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
Seriously people use what the engine builders say to use.

4brDzJE.jpg
 
When I drove my old D150 daily I would run 20w50 in the summer then switch to 10w40 in winter. The 20w50 slowed the oil consumption down and kept the oil light off... Engine is very,very tired but just keeps going. Now I only use it a few times a year I just keep 10w40 in it so I don't have to worry about winter starts.
 
Earlier it was mentioned ALWAYS using ONLY what the mfg's/engineers spec. In some instances I completely agree - mfg's spend likely millions in engineering to get steering geometry, driveline angles etc. correct. One aftermarket $2500 - $5000 lift kit can screw all that up. Seen it many times with lifted trucks. Oil specs are ALOT different IMO, due to CAFE influence. Automakers have implemented start/stop technology, ECM control of alternator output, thin oil specs etc. in an effort to gain even the most miniscule increase in CAFE average. Multiplied over many many vehicles sold implication is significant. As an owner of many "older" vehicles, I'm not a fan of these technologies for extreme long term ownership, as I forsee issues many years/miles down the road. I obviously don't have a "better" answer than what the mfg's are doing to try to meet CAFE stds. But I think there may be some compromise when it comes to best vs adequate oil viscosity, even tho the vast majority of owners won't keep a vehicle long enough to notice.
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
The makers of these engines spend millions in R&D and after reading some of the posts here i am thinking what a waste of time and money..
They should just ask some of the member here on Bitog what they should use in the engines they design and build after all someone here has a new ford that calls for 20 weight but he or his dad uses 10w40 because he uses 20 weight on his "pancakes" then there is the guy that uses 15w40 because he "steals it from work"
Then there is the one that uses 10w40 and a bottle of STP.
I was thinking why not all STP... What does STP stand for anyway??? Stop Those Pistons????
I was thinking of all those poor engines that get the oil that is printed on the oil cap... Then i am thinking i should have never sold the engine shop because if people use what the oil cap says to use their will be lots of engines needing rebuilds...

Seriously people use what the engine builders say to use.


A just bought some Valvoline Synpower MST 5W-40 which is going into a vehicle which specs 5w30 API SN GF-5. It will be used in March to June time frame here in Arizona. I doubt I will have a issue.
 
Car specs 10W30. Too skinny, and probably quite hard to find, come to think of it, though I havn't really tried.

Using roughly 1:1 Straight 40 (CPC) and 15W40 (Mobil Delvac MX).

Both those seem to have disappeared off the shelves so if I can't track them down next time around I'll probably go Castrol GTX 20W50.

But this is really another job for Standard Answer Man.

" It DOESN'T MATTER. And If It Did You Wouldn't Be Able To Tell Anyway"

(Who was that masked meanie)
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
20W-50 seems to be the boogeyman of Bitog..... i would never use it in something that specs a 30 grade oil.

I would, nothing much happens, everything still works. Assuming it's not well below freezing.

Lots of Corolla's, Civic's, etc in Australia have run 20W50.

Silk in NZ puts Penrite 40-70 (no W rating on that sucker) in an older Corolla.


Yep. EVERYTHING in the 90's ran on 20w50 here, with no problems whatsoever. Most guys with V8's would have something like a 25w60 in the sump! 15w40 is the default oil these days, and again, no issues. I changed the oil in my Falcon a couple of days ago, poured another round of 15w40 down its throat, that's it done for 12 months or 10,000(ish) kilometres, luckily we have a climate which doesn't vary that much summer to winter.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
after all someone here has a new ford that calls for 20 weight but he or his dad uses 10w40

Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
Seriously people use what the engine builders say to use.

4brDzJE.jpg




Bazinga!

Good one....won't hurt a thing they say.
 
I put Mobil 1 0W-40 in my S2000 and NSX, which both call for 10w30. Sort of. The S2000 manual says to use 5W-40 in cold weather. Same for the NSX in later years, supposedly. And, of course, in various countries (including, supposedly, Japan) they specced 5W-40 for them.

robert
 
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Bazinga!

Good one....won't hurt a thing they say.


Is that Oasis message still current? It was reported here that the message was recalled and no longer valid.
 
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