Maybe 1-2 years ago.
How many are using engine oil with Antimony?
- Thread starter miami993
- Start date
not sure if anyone is using Antimony any more due to the SQ/GF-7 and for that matter Titanium maybe a thing of the past too , as these components are getting rather pricey, and moly and boron are the more prevalent offerings from the additive companys.
Thank you for your answer.
No, thank you for joining discussion.
An engineer first behavior is curiosity and questioning, that easy to find anything numeric nowadays with a little dedication.
Thank you very informative.
Thank you overkill, yes, you need to know some, like in many other areas...
What numerics? Help us out here who may not be as dedicated.
Please link your website, I’m always ready to learn. Thanks.
Unlike a troll.
With all due respect to your 'team of chemists since the 70s,' your logic here is a textbook case of additive clashing.
You’re claiming a 'spectacular' fix for a mechanical tick by dumping a high-pressure (EP) Antimony booster into a finished Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO). Any actual Tribologist would tell you that modern oil is a delicate balance of competitive adsorption. By spiking the Antimony to 200ppm, you aren't 'enhancing' the oil; you’re forcing the Antimony to compete with the existing Moly and ZDDP for surface area.
Here’s the reality check:
The 'Tick' Fix: You didn't 'fix' the engine; you likely just muffled the sound with a high-ash sacrificial film.
Emissions & Deposits: Antimony is largely deprecated in modern gasoline engines for a reason—it’s hell on catalytic converters and performs poorly in TEOST (Thermo-Oxidation) testing compared to modern organic friction modifiers.
The Math: As JavierH19 pointed out, you're spending upwards of $150 on additives alone. If your 'team of chemists' is telling you that a $200 oil change involving a heavy-metal booster pack is superior to a properly formulated off-the-shelf HPL Supercar or Mobil 1 Full Synthetic, then they’re still living in 1978.
If you actually have a website or white papers from your company proving that this DIY 'Antimony Cocktail' outperforms a modern API SP formulation in a 5.0L Coyote engine, we’d love to see the data. Until then, it looks like you're just playing chemistry set with an expensive engine and hoping the 'placebo effect' keeps the lifters quiet.
You’re claiming a 'spectacular' fix for a mechanical tick by dumping a high-pressure (EP) Antimony booster into a finished Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO). Any actual Tribologist would tell you that modern oil is a delicate balance of competitive adsorption. By spiking the Antimony to 200ppm, you aren't 'enhancing' the oil; you’re forcing the Antimony to compete with the existing Moly and ZDDP for surface area.
Here’s the reality check:
The 'Tick' Fix: You didn't 'fix' the engine; you likely just muffled the sound with a high-ash sacrificial film.
Emissions & Deposits: Antimony is largely deprecated in modern gasoline engines for a reason—it’s hell on catalytic converters and performs poorly in TEOST (Thermo-Oxidation) testing compared to modern organic friction modifiers.
The Math: As JavierH19 pointed out, you're spending upwards of $150 on additives alone. If your 'team of chemists' is telling you that a $200 oil change involving a heavy-metal booster pack is superior to a properly formulated off-the-shelf HPL Supercar or Mobil 1 Full Synthetic, then they’re still living in 1978.
If you actually have a website or white papers from your company proving that this DIY 'Antimony Cocktail' outperforms a modern API SP formulation in a 5.0L Coyote engine, we’d love to see the data. Until then, it looks like you're just playing chemistry set with an expensive engine and hoping the 'placebo effect' keeps the lifters quiet.
You are thinking Tungsten
He will return in another 15 years.
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- May 8, 2023
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I used AMSOIL Signature Series 5w30 in my 23 mustang gt and never had a tick.
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