I use it in our two Infinitis and our BMW. It is perfect for two of them, and works great in the other as well.
How many M1 0w40 users do we have?
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0w-40 can be safely used in just about everything, including track use according to Mobil and Indy racers. Its just too thick to get full power out of your engine, and worse fuel economy. Its also pretty thick still at zero degrees F, as I've seen.
I use it and I don't drive a lot. I did an OC last May and I just turned 4k miles since then. See below for vehicle.
It is in my stash.
Plan on switching to it for my e46 BMW and doing 1 year OCIs as soon as my Castrol is used up.
So I doubt it would do any good to even consider using it in a lil' 4cylinder Focus like mine. I think looking at the specs it's too thick for my application
Patman
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It's what I'm running in my wife's BMW, I'll have it's first UOA in a few months.
I used the mobil1 0w40 in our 2000 Odyssey van for the last 5 years before I sold it. 5w30 was the spec'd oil for the van and I was using 5w30 mobil 1 before this, but I wanted to try the 0w40. I found that it out lasted the 5w30, in that it was less dark and smelly after 6 months and approx 8000km of use; the oil was still very slippery between the fingers, whereas the 5w30 wasn't so much. Also, when I first started to use it, I could tell that the engine sounded quieter. Anyway, I definitely thought that the 0w40 was the better of the two oils. I put the better performance down to the 0w40 having the euro and the long life specs. Not scientific, I know, but just my eyeball, nose and feel observations.
JHZR2
Staff member
My saab gets it in the 2 year/15k mile-ish OCI that the computer calculates.
Originally Posted By: ZZBottom
0w-40 can be safely used in just about everything, including track use according to Mobil and Indy racers. Its just too thick to get full power out of your engine,.......".
What are you basing this statement on ? I've dyno'd. hundreds of engines over the last 52 years. The difference in HP between a 5w30 oil and a 15w-50 oil is between 3 and 7 horsepower at the redline, no one can notice that small difference, at crushing rpm, the difference is usually none, occasionally it will be up to 1.0 HP.
Only at the highest levels of racing, does a thinner oil make the difference between winning or losing.
Back to the OP question, I use Mobil 1 0w-40 in the wintertime in my high performance classic cars. The rest of the year I use Mobil1 15w-50.
Z
0w-40 can be safely used in just about everything, including track use according to Mobil and Indy racers. Its just too thick to get full power out of your engine,.......".
What are you basing this statement on ? I've dyno'd. hundreds of engines over the last 52 years. The difference in HP between a 5w30 oil and a 15w-50 oil is between 3 and 7 horsepower at the redline, no one can notice that small difference, at crushing rpm, the difference is usually none, occasionally it will be up to 1.0 HP.
Only at the highest levels of racing, does a thinner oil make the difference between winning or losing.
Back to the OP question, I use Mobil 1 0w-40 in the wintertime in my high performance classic cars. The rest of the year I use Mobil1 15w-50.
Z
Both in my wife's BMW and in my Silverado. It really quieted the piston slap in my Silverado.
Originally Posted By: zray
The difference in HP between a 5w30 oil and a 15w-50 oil is between 3 and 7 horsepower at the redline
That is an absolutely huge amount of power to something like a Spec Miata. I mean huge. I promise any decent SM driver would know the difference! But I also don't think the lower powered motor would see that sort of difference with those two oils. I'm guessing you work on a big V8s?
robert
The difference in HP between a 5w30 oil and a 15w-50 oil is between 3 and 7 horsepower at the redline
That is an absolutely huge amount of power to something like a Spec Miata. I mean huge. I promise any decent SM driver would know the difference! But I also don't think the lower powered motor would see that sort of difference with those two oils. I'm guessing you work on a big V8s?
robert
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My Turbos get M1 0w-40 New life regularly, both the 900 and the 9000. (Both happen to have the same engine, B202, though the 9000 has the more advanced DI-APC, while the 900 still has stone age distributor ignition.)
On both engines, I run 10.000km intervals. Whith normal use - weekend commutes @ 120-130km/h - I have minimal oil consumption, about .5 litres during the entire interval (no fuel dilution, as I do nearly no city-driving nor short distance driving) and oil stays amber during the whole interval.
But if decide to do the 580km door to door in 4:15 hours insted of 6hours, I burn through .5 - 1 litre of oil on a single weekend. And I turn it black on this single weekend, too.
But to do Berlin-Munich in about 4 hours, you have to be at or above 200km/h on absolutely any unrestricted kilometre. (Significant parts of the A9 have a speed limit, so on the rest you have to push much harder.) So we are talking about continuously running 5500/min and full boost for hours.
Besides that, both b201 and b202 are known to be hard on oil, especially the early ones with not-water-cooled Garret turbos.
At these Intervals, M1 keeps the engine reasonably clean, with no sludge and no oil coal, but there is significant laquer build-up.
My mechanic recommends M1 0w-40 for most turbos of his clientele, making an exception for those drivers that are known to be driving hard most of the time as well as for tuned engines with raised rev limiter: for those he recommends M1 5w-50 or even Shell 10w-60, the latter with reduced intervals.
The M1 new life is a little bit on the thin side for a 40-grade, and a 900 turbo under continous full load easily reaches 130-150°C in the sump, so New life clearly has it's limitations.
Here's a pic of the oil sump of the 900 turbo at 534.000km. The first 300k were with the previous owner on unknown oil, the next 100k on a steady diet of Shell 10w-40 at 5000-km-intervals, and the last 124k on M1 0w-40. No oil, no sludge, but lots of laquer!
On both engines, I run 10.000km intervals. Whith normal use - weekend commutes @ 120-130km/h - I have minimal oil consumption, about .5 litres during the entire interval (no fuel dilution, as I do nearly no city-driving nor short distance driving) and oil stays amber during the whole interval.
But if decide to do the 580km door to door in 4:15 hours insted of 6hours, I burn through .5 - 1 litre of oil on a single weekend. And I turn it black on this single weekend, too.
But to do Berlin-Munich in about 4 hours, you have to be at or above 200km/h on absolutely any unrestricted kilometre. (Significant parts of the A9 have a speed limit, so on the rest you have to push much harder.) So we are talking about continuously running 5500/min and full boost for hours.
Besides that, both b201 and b202 are known to be hard on oil, especially the early ones with not-water-cooled Garret turbos.
At these Intervals, M1 keeps the engine reasonably clean, with no sludge and no oil coal, but there is significant laquer build-up.
My mechanic recommends M1 0w-40 for most turbos of his clientele, making an exception for those drivers that are known to be driving hard most of the time as well as for tuned engines with raised rev limiter: for those he recommends M1 5w-50 or even Shell 10w-60, the latter with reduced intervals.
The M1 new life is a little bit on the thin side for a 40-grade, and a 900 turbo under continous full load easily reaches 130-150°C in the sump, so New life clearly has it's limitations.
Here's a pic of the oil sump of the 900 turbo at 534.000km. The first 300k were with the previous owner on unknown oil, the next 100k on a steady diet of Shell 10w-40 at 5000-km-intervals, and the last 124k on M1 0w-40. No oil, no sludge, but lots of laquer!
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Since it's printed right on my oil filler cap I use it in my sig car.
Engine is spotlessly clean at 102k miles...
Engine is spotlessly clean at 102k miles...
Originally Posted By: robertcope
Originally Posted By: zray
The difference in HP between a 5w30 oil and a 15w-50 oil is between 3 and 7 horsepower at the redline
That is an absolutely huge amount of power to something like a Spec Miata. I mean huge. I promise any decent SM driver would know the difference! But I also don't think the lower powered motor would see that sort of difference with those two oils. I'm guessing you work on a big V8s?
robert
For the most part you are correct. But I worked with the little V-8's also, primarily the 289, which very popular in many applications over a several decades.
The 4 & 6 cylinder engines,I did build saw much less of a horsepower drop than the bigger engines did. That would include the Triumph TR's, 2, 3, & 4. And the Spitfire. The six cylinder Datsun 240z also showed very little HP drop with a heavier oil.
The jaguar 3.8 & 4.2 straight 6 engines were the exception. They both lost between 10 and 12 HP at the relatively low redline. However it was a moot point as they were unreliable in racing conditions with the lighter oil, so Castrol 20w-50 was the oil of choice back then.
Triumph , BSA,, and Norton motorcycle engines showed no HP difference between differnt oils, but like many enignes of the '60's & '70's , were unreliable unless a heavier oil was used, even for street use.
Z.
Originally Posted By: zray
The difference in HP between a 5w30 oil and a 15w-50 oil is between 3 and 7 horsepower at the redline
That is an absolutely huge amount of power to something like a Spec Miata. I mean huge. I promise any decent SM driver would know the difference! But I also don't think the lower powered motor would see that sort of difference with those two oils. I'm guessing you work on a big V8s?
robert
For the most part you are correct. But I worked with the little V-8's also, primarily the 289, which very popular in many applications over a several decades.
The 4 & 6 cylinder engines,I did build saw much less of a horsepower drop than the bigger engines did. That would include the Triumph TR's, 2, 3, & 4. And the Spitfire. The six cylinder Datsun 240z also showed very little HP drop with a heavier oil.
The jaguar 3.8 & 4.2 straight 6 engines were the exception. They both lost between 10 and 12 HP at the relatively low redline. However it was a moot point as they were unreliable in racing conditions with the lighter oil, so Castrol 20w-50 was the oil of choice back then.
Triumph , BSA,, and Norton motorcycle engines showed no HP difference between differnt oils, but like many enignes of the '60's & '70's , were unreliable unless a heavier oil was used, even for street use.
Z.
Was a convert to M1 from the "mystery oil" used by my car's last mechanic.
It was in there for 12000km (7.5k miles) and seemed to be alright. My biggest complaint was that it exaggerated VANOS rattle and lifter tick on my example.
After switching to Rotella T6, you cannot hear the VANOS at idle, unless you put your ear against it. And surprisingly enough, the difference is noticeable even at cool idle (just after starting in weather around 20C +)
On a vehicle with a known-good valvetrain, identical to mine, I would be interested to see if my problems show up on those vehicles. Who knows?
It was in there for 12000km (7.5k miles) and seemed to be alright. My biggest complaint was that it exaggerated VANOS rattle and lifter tick on my example.
After switching to Rotella T6, you cannot hear the VANOS at idle, unless you put your ear against it. And surprisingly enough, the difference is noticeable even at cool idle (just after starting in weather around 20C +)
On a vehicle with a known-good valvetrain, identical to mine, I would be interested to see if my problems show up on those vehicles. Who knows?
Originally Posted By: jrmason
I wouldn't say its an oil for all occasions. Lots of vehicles out there spec'd for 20w oils. I think you'd be nuts to run a 40w in an engine that calls for a 5w20.
Just depends on how it is run or used.
My engine in my sig car is a tweaked 5.7. No real difference relative to lubrication requirements except power density.
The 5.7 specs 20 weight and the 6.1 (and 6.4) specs 40. Your oil must be gauged against the duty cycle...
I wouldn't say its an oil for all occasions. Lots of vehicles out there spec'd for 20w oils. I think you'd be nuts to run a 40w in an engine that calls for a 5w20.
Just depends on how it is run or used.
My engine in my sig car is a tweaked 5.7. No real difference relative to lubrication requirements except power density.
The 5.7 specs 20 weight and the 6.1 (and 6.4) specs 40. Your oil must be gauged against the duty cycle...
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