That's for the parking brake. Probably not a big deal to leave it out temporarily if you don't use the parking brake, but if you have something else to drive, not worth the hassle to put back together and take apart again.
How important is this brake spring?
- Thread starter supton
- Start date
I tried leaving off but the shoes would drag and lock. They do not sit against the backing plate without it.
That's normal for any car over 10 years old in many parts of the US
You are also missing the spring retainers that keep the springs and pins in place (they are about the size of a dime, disc shaped with a slotted hole in the center). Get the entire kit. It will have all of the springs, retainers, and pins in it. Replace all of the old parts with the new ones that come in the kit.
I still have all the parts. I ordered new pins and cups and three springs (dealer didn't have 4). I think that will cover it.
Then take the shoes off too. Just just a few more springs hold them in.
Brake hardware kits are like $10 on rockauto, now you know. I can only imagine what the dealer will charge..
Thought of it, but then i’d have to reinstall. Less work to leave alone and wait until I get the parts.
I have a spare car, so while this is annoying, it is merely an inconvenience.
Did you back off the shoes before removing the rotor? Sometimes, that can alleviate this issue.
No, I had issues lining up the window, and it was not easy to get to the star wheel. Did not think the ridge was bad? maybe it was enough.
Cannot remember the last time I pulled the rotors, I guess I should have pulled more often so as to watch for the ridge.
With a bit of ridge, or rust, you can bust those pins, and pull them right through the backing plate if you pry the drum/rotor off.
I think that is what I did. Live and learn. Apparently its a really small ridge that will do this, I would have expected more.
I should go and check the two cars with drums, before I do this again.
That is pretty impressive. Yikes.Ok, tried it w/o, and as you guys indicate, it sure does drag.
Managed to crack the rotor while removing too.So now I need to head out and see if I can get those pins (nails?) and whatnot, along with rotors and pads too. Boy do I miss my VW and its version of a parking brake--the calipers would go bad on that but I really dislike drums.
So one pin is definitely elongated. Is that from me pulling the rotor? No idea.
View attachment 96482
As for the rotor, I guess I shouldn't complain, pads weren't too far from being done. No idea what happened here, it sat for a couple of weeks in the garage, but apparently I drove in a lake at some point? clearly at some point water drained out of the drum area.
View attachment 96483
Back together. Sorta.
Took about an hour to get those stupid springs back into place. No fun job right there. The rest was a piece of cake.
On the side that had been locked up I made sure to spin the adjuster. Both wheels spun nicely while in the air. Put onto the ground and... made the mistake of trying out the parking brake. Yep, I think that was the problem all along, cables must be bad.
After waiting for the rotors to cool I cranked the adjusters all the way out (in?) and put painter's tape over the parking brake handle. Done for now. [In case not explicit: it's drum in rotor, the drum brake is 100% only for parking brake, so all I've disabled is the parking brake.] Took it out for a spin, no more dragging brakes. Got it up to 60mph, made sure it cornered like the boat it is... then remembered that I left the lugs finger tight. I made sure to drive home as fast as I could before a wheel could fall off. Quality work right there... sheesh.
Pads, "shim kit", rotors, springs, pins was $293. I didn't care, I figure decent quality parts, done and over with. Good for another 5 years and 100k (or until something else goes).
Took about an hour to get those stupid springs back into place. No fun job right there. The rest was a piece of cake.
On the side that had been locked up I made sure to spin the adjuster. Both wheels spun nicely while in the air. Put onto the ground and... made the mistake of trying out the parking brake. Yep, I think that was the problem all along, cables must be bad.
After waiting for the rotors to cool I cranked the adjusters all the way out (in?) and put painter's tape over the parking brake handle. Done for now. [In case not explicit: it's drum in rotor, the drum brake is 100% only for parking brake, so all I've disabled is the parking brake.] Took it out for a spin, no more dragging brakes. Got it up to 60mph, made sure it cornered like the boat it is... then remembered that I left the lugs finger tight. I made sure to drive home as fast as I could before a wheel could fall off. Quality work right there... sheesh.
Pads, "shim kit", rotors, springs, pins was $293. I didn't care, I figure decent quality parts, done and over with. Good for another 5 years and 100k (or until something else goes).
Stopped off at the garage that I use. Confirmed that I don't need the dust shield for vehicle inspection--but that my brakes won't last nearly as long without it. Problem is, replacing the shields will be $800-1k. The hubs would likely destroyed in the process of removing them so as to do the shields, due to rust locking items in place. After watching a video on it I can tell that the job is beyond my skills.
Let's see, motor mounts, struts, parking brake cables and dust shields. If it wasn't for the pandemic I'd say that now was prime time to move on in life.
Let's see, motor mounts, struts, parking brake cables and dust shields. If it wasn't for the pandemic I'd say that now was prime time to move on in life.
Are you sure those aren't really Rock Auto prices before shipping?
Might be - been a while since I’ve done a set.
Still, what are we talking with shipping ? Or locally?
$20?
Not enough to risk putting this set back with cobbled together, damaged parts.
Given the market distortions - you’re doing the right thing getting this one squared away.
All in, for all your work, what have you spent?
You get another year or two from this car, you’re way, way ahead of buying something right now.
It really depends on what he is planning to buy and how much that model is normally discounted.
If he can find a vehicle for msrp and no add-on’s, he will be doing fine if that model is normally sold at invoice w/o incentives. This is especially true since he is likely to receive an abnormally high trade-in value.
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