How cold is too cold for Liqui-Moly 10W-60?

I've ran conventional 10w40 in temperatures as low as -28*F. My cars have 10w40 in them now and our temperatures are forecast to get down to 1* later this week. I'm not at all concerned about running 10w oil in those temperatures. I've done it many times over the past 45+ years.
 
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Had an S10 parked outside overnight where temp hit 4 degrees F and it started like normal w 10w30 in it. 10w should be fine for a week
 
Similar phenomenon in California where it can be in the upper 50s and low 60s near the coast in the summer time for high temperature and yet it be in the 100s plus just 100 to 200 miles eastward inland from the coast.
That temperature differential can be experienced in less than 50 miles by road, and about 40 as the crow flies.

A few years ago we were driving from Novato, which is about 20 miles north of Sausalito, to Sausalito, and the temp dropped from just about 100-deg to the low 60s.
 
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Y'gotta love these Russians ...

 
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It is about HTHS not KV100 in this engine. And NO, 5W20 won't work or anything other than SOME 5W50.

I was just giving an example that there is no reason to run that syrup in the car.

The requirement for high HTHS is also temperature dependent. I agree that 5W50 is a safe choice. It can easily handle top speed autobahn runs. If you go thinner you theoretically sacrafice some of high temp protection, but lots of people ran xW40 and were fine.
 
I was just giving an example that there is no reason to run that syrup in the car.

The requirement for high HTHS is also temperature dependent. I agree that 5W50 is a safe choice. It can easily handle top speed autobahn runs. If you go thinner you theoretically sacrafice some of high temp protection, but lots of people ran xW40 and were fine.
HTHS is temperature dependent? What temperature?
Lots of people ran XW40 in THIS engine?
 
HTHS is just another measure of viscosity which is a better predictor of wear than kinematic viscosity. At lower oil temperatures you do not need higher viscosity regardless of how you measure it. Thats why I'm saying the requirement to run HTHS oil will be temperature dependent. Famous BITOGers have run it on this engine.
 
Press the EASY button.

You can also slide a 100W trouble light in a aluminum roasting pan under the oil pan. Bulb facing UP.
My wife put that in the oven to keep it around 100 degrees when culturing whole, un-pasteurised milk into yoghurt

edited @1047hrs for mystery typos
I make yoghurt with a sous vide. keeps temp to a tenth of a degree
 
The irony here is OP wants to drive a nice car in sub zero Texas temps.
There will certainly be no salt on the roads and driving conditions will likely be an icy mess.
Seems like a recipe for disaster.
He’s in Sugarland - basically Houston - so high teens °F …
They might put sand on the bridges - not much more …
 
Veterans told a different tale. Heating the oil pan (and the entire engine) throughout the whole night.

A bit different, don't you think? Reread the numbers I provided before. Heating the oil only is complete BS.
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Uh, no. They also told of draining the oil and bringing inside their shacks where they had heat, then refilling.
The whole of history isn't one story. One should perhaps read a broader range of books.
 
Why is this and then why wouldn't a 50 weight drop to a 40 weight quickly
Viscosity improvers.
Some oils are more shear stable, some not.
10W60 will be less stable than 10W50, all things being equal.
Redline 5W50 proved really good in M engines, especially ones with rod bearing issues. I bet HPL has something for this engine that is very stable.
 
Uh, no. They also told of draining the oil and bringing inside their shacks where they had heat, then refilling.
The whole of history isn't one story. One should perhaps read a broader range of books.

That can't change anything on this matter of fact:

20 lbs of 'warm' oil put in a 500 lbs ice cold engine at -13°F. What you guess will win? 🤫

Conclusion: placebo.
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I used to work with a guy from Machias ME. In the winter, he would drain the oil and the coolant and take the battery in to make sure the car would start the next morning. An early 50s car, I'm guessing. From personal experience I've started a car with 10w40 in at-17F and 10F with 20w50.
 
That can't change anything on this matter of fact:



Conclusion: placebo.
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The oil doesn't immediately change temperature in contact with the metal. If your oil is warm and thinner then it will get where it needs to be before it cools off, and it will flow easier resulting in faster cranking. Once the engine starts it will warm up that 500lb iron block, but atleast the oil will start out warm.

TLDR: Draining and warming the oil isn't as much about heating the block as it is about keeping your 1940's straight 30w oil from becoming like candle wax
 
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