Honda MTF vs Amsoil 5w30 Syncromesh

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Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
What type of car is it ?

RSX.

I'm not sure if its the old or new stuff. In retrospect I suppose its worth it to spend a little extra money on a nice premium transmission fluid, since their OCIs are recommended at 60m and 120k miles!
 
Glad you like the Amsoil!

Like others have said - it makes a lot of sense to run premium syn fluids in apps where they will be in service for many yrs and many miles like a trans.
 
Bringing up this old thread to ask about how difficult it is to change MTF, I hear the problem is one of the bolts(either fill or drain bolt) needing a special tool to remove?

Others say you can add more fluid via the speed sensor location. Any tips for doing this myself, and potentially not having to go that route?

I'd like to be able to put the car on 4 level jack stands and perform this job.

I'm bringing up this thread because I'm considering using Amsoil's product.
 
Hey SlimJim: I see you're in Atlanta too! Downtown?

The fluid change on a Honda 5-speed is super easy. I never jack the car up. That "special tool" for the lower bolt is just a 3/8" driver -- rather than putting a socket on it, you just put it right on the bolt. Pretty nifty really.

My method is to remove the fill bolt, remove the drain bolt and let it pour out (best when the trans is hot). Replace drain bolt with a new aluminum crush washer (14mm?). Put a vinyl hose down into the fill hole, push it up into a funnel with a bit of tape, and fill it up with 2 qts. I just keep filling till a bit starts to run back out the fill hole. Then snug the fill bolt back on with another washer (20mm?).
 
I`ve tried alot of different MTF`s and Amsoil wins hands down! That Honda stuff IS cheap! The Nissan MTF is $9 a quart!
 
Originally Posted By: JZiggy
Hey SlimJim: I see you're in Atlanta too! Downtown?

The fluid change on a Honda 5-speed is super easy. I never jack the car up. That "special tool" for the lower bolt is just a 3/8" driver -- rather than putting a socket on it, you just put it right on the bolt. Pretty nifty really.

My method is to remove the fill bolt, remove the drain bolt and let it pour out (best when the trans is hot). Replace drain bolt with a new aluminum crush washer (14mm?). Put a vinyl hose down into the fill hole, push it up into a funnel with a bit of tape, and fill it up with 2 qts. I just keep filling till a bit starts to run back out the fill hole. Then snug the fill bolt back on with another washer (20mm?).


Zig, thanks for the tip. I was wondering about just using the 3/8s drive instead anyway. So, can I pull the plugs easily without it being up on a jack, just find a level spot?

Thanks too for the tip about changing it out after it's hot.

PS: I live in metro area, not downtown.
 
Yeah, just find a level place. I also turn the wheel all the way to the driver's side to help with access to the bolts.
 
Dealership prices vary wildly, evidently. I bought 2 quarts of Honda MTF II for my S2000 and was charged $10 ea.

Just remember, the old Honda MTF was about as thick as 10W-30 weight motor oil (cSt 10.0 - 11.0) but then new stuff is much thinner, being close to an ATF at cSt 7.5. That puts it in the same league with the Royal Purple Syncromax and Torco MTF.

I assume they thinned it down for fuel economy reasons and perhaps for better shift feel.

A poster towards the beginning of this thread said that manual transmissions don't wear out (typically). While that's sorta true, syncronizers do become damaged and worn.

I would use the 60K interval as an extreme interval and half distance that if you really want to protect your car properly for spirited driving. I'm told S2000 6-speeds typically shear down their tranny oil in 10 - 15K ... although I have not had mine that long.

Oh, and refilling the FWD trannies may require a funnel with a hose feeding in from above ... that's usually how I do it.
 
Thanks for the extra tips guys. As long as the hose fits into the inlet, it shouldn't drain the new fluid out as I pour it in until it reaches full(just shy of 2 Qts even on my MT)?
 
Oh, and one last concern would be the need of a torque wrench or not?

Specs for torque are:

Manual Transmission
Fill Plug 51 ft/lbs
Drain Plug 29 ft/lbs

So, should I just get the fill plug tight and then perhaps a half turn afterward, and only a 1/4 turn for the drain plug, something to that effect?
 
But if you don't have a torque wrench, just make em Gutentite.

And use new crush washers! (or anneal your old ones)
 
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
On Hondas I like to remove the reverse gear sensor and just pour the MTF from above.


A popular way others do it, to avoid using a tube down to the fill hole, is to re-fill via the Vehicle Speed Sensor. Just removing the bolt/screws holding it down into position, not the sensor from the wire harness or anything like that(keeping it all as one piece).

I'm sure some have 'guess' filled by assuming all of the old fluid drained out, but I may go this route of refilling after draining while level and then re-installing the drain plug but leaving the fill bolt out while pouring in through the VSS location. It's still recommended to replace the crush washers each time, right? Do I have to get them at the dealer, though?

Link:

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=382416

It's near the end of the OP, separate part of the tutorial.
 
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