Honda J35 V6 (J35Z4) Sludge and Cam Scoring

The information is the reason people are doubting that is the primary issue. One side of the engine shows no sign of the oil change being overextended and the other appears to have suffered partial oil starvation. It looks a lot like an engine that had inadequate venting and suffered from moisture induced sludge but on one head only (That's an observation on appearance not an opinion on cause).
I am in agreement with your comments. However, the ones that receive more frequent oil changes will only have the thick varnish in the front head....not the sludge that you see here.
 
I am in agreement with your comments. However, the ones that receive more frequent oil changes will only have the thick varnish in the front head....not the sludge that you see here.
Yeah, this is the engine @Trav recommended M1 0w-40 for IIRC, as he found it kept it clean. Regular PCMO's would result in exactly what you've seen here.
 
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Yeah, this is the engine Trav recommended M1 0w-40 for IIRC, as he found it kept it clean. Regular PCMO's would result in exactly what you've seen here.
If I recall correctly, he used Amsoil SS 5W20 at annual intervals.

Annual for him was probably somewhere in the 15-25K range.
 
If I recall correctly, he used Amsoil SS 5W20 at annual intervals.

Annual for him was probably somewhere in the 15-25K range.
He said earlier in the thread that 15K on AMSOIL was way too long for this engine.

On the 0w-40:



Trav said:
If the PCV was stuck make sure the bottom of the valve cover openings are clear and free flowing to the PCV valve opening, this is common with these Honda engines.
I have had great results with Mobil 1 0w40 at cleaning these up when they are at this point or less, the engines love it.
 
The dry hard carbon chunks are what makes it completely unbelievable. Something more to this, methinks.
Agree. VCM is very rough on oil.

@ The Critic, is VCM still active, and did they ever perform a UOA?

Extended OCI should never be done without UOA.
 
He said earlier in the thread that 15K on AMSOIL was way too long for this engine.

On the 0w-40:


He= owner of this Pilot, not Trav.

Agree. VCM is very rough on oil.

@ The Critic, is VCM still active, and did they ever perform a UOA?

Extended OCI should never be done without UOA.
No UOA, and VCM is still active.
 
Either that’s a bad design, she didn’t ever check the level between yearly intervals or the 15k/year assumption is wrong. No way that’s normal for ANY oil with only 15k/year, IF kept topped up...

I do love seeing the 3/3 folks climbing out from under their rocks for a quick jab, though!
15k would put my olm to zero 3 times on my work truck. I could see that causing sludge under certain conditions. Definitely both the 3k/3 guys and the 10k+ is always fine guys will blindly defend their opinion and call anything that doesn't agree with their opinion a lie.
 
Looks like the lobes on the K20A3 I used to own on the exhaust cam. About 65k and went to check an awful ticking I thought was a valve adjustment. Nope. Cam galling. I was sad. Put about 200k on the old intake and 150k on the new exhaust cam and didn't have an issue from that point forward. Pretty certain is was bad metallurgy from the factory. But who knows.
 
Change the PCV every 30K or sooner on these engines and 3-4K OCI with synthetic oil with these or you end up like the one the OP is working on or worse.
Based on Trav's advice, on my 4 2006-2007 Honda Odyssey's I change the PCV every 30k miles, and change the oil every 4k/6 month's (whichever comes first) with a full synthetic oil. I also prefer to only use an oil which meets GM Dexos 1 Gen 3 which has stricter limits for sludge and the deposits which cause varnish. I also moved away from 20 weight oils in these engines, and am currently using a viscosity of 5W-30.
 
Pablo IMO you can believe this! The first time I posted the mess under the covers of one of these engines and the full synthetic OCI people were calling me out with comments like that is not possible, the guy lied to you. Fact is it was my brothers and I did or was with him every OC so I know what went in and how long it was in there. I have seen more than a dozen like this and worse and know their history.
5K in these is a long OCI 10K is asking for trouble 15K forget it, it is having deposit/varnish issues at a min.
Full synthetic oil with Dexos 1 Gen 3 approval is only $18.98 for a 5 quart jug (SuperTech) at Walmart.
Fram ExtraGuard oil filters with 95% efficiency @> 20 microns are only $3.50 on Amazon with subscribe and save.

I prefer to change my oil and filter at 4k miles / 6 months, since from what I've read, I will avoid issues with sludge / varnish / stuck engine control rings, engine wear, etc. I will spend less on oil changes than if I did extended oil changes with some super expensive oil and then had to do UOA's to prove to myself that engine wear was not excessive. Also, since UOA's don't measure gradual sludge/varnish accumulation from extended oil changes, I don't see a reason to ever order a UOA. Just my humble opinion.
 
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