This is a screenshot from Honda UK. Just proof that 0/20 in the US is sorely for CAFE. If you go back further, they still recommend ACEA A3. But a API SL. Wasn't SL way higher ZDDP levels in comparison to a standard 5/30?
What year are you looking at here?This is a screenshot from Honda UK. Just proof that 0/20 in the US is sorely for CAFE. If you go back further, they still recommend ACEA A3. But a API SL. Wasn't SL way higher ZDDP levels in comparison to a standard 5/30?
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That was for 2012. But nothing has changed except for direct injection and turbos on 4cyl. I found one for the J37 (V6) used in the Acura MDX, Honda MDX and the Honda Legend. Said the same thing.What year are you looking at here?
I would imagine the same as the US. Same engine. I have 248k on my k24. My parents had 425k on their 93 Accord with a 2.2L before my dad t-boned a lady that pulled out in front of him. Nothing every wore out. AC blew cold, tranny never out, just regular maintenance.Wonder how many miles or kilometers they run cars there?
Well, most A3/B3(B4) lubes are going to be SL, as they have to be if they are xW-30's. SN was introduced in 2010.That was for 2012. But nothing has changed except for direct injection and turbos on 4cyl. I found one for the J37 (V6) used in the Acura MDX, Honda MDX and the Honda Legend. Said the same thing.
Much better quality oil. Here's a pic of the new to me 2015 Acura MDX 3.5L. 118k on the clock. I was surprised how clean it is down the fill hole. I don't have the records, I don't think the previous owners did long OCI. I'm going to continue with 3-5k OCI with the direct injection using Castrol 0/40Well, most A3/B3(B4) lubes are going to be SL, as they have to be if they are xW-30's. SN was introduced in 2010.
Since this is Europe, it's not surprising the focus is on an ACEA rating rather than API.
I would continue to use the 0/40. It's far superior to in comparison to the Chevron oil. The Chevron does not carry the same specs as the 0/40. You have a timing chain, if you want it to last to the 400k where Honda recommends changing, I would continue with the 0/40.I’m going to continue using M1 0w40 in my 2017 accord sport after I use up my stash of Chevron Supreme and RGT 5w30
What it boils down to, 0/20 doesn't have a very high HTHS, the hottest area of an engine for sure is under the pistons, I would prefer to have a higher viscosity for film strength to deal with all that heat. Same goes I would prefer to have that heavier viscosity for the timing chain.A1/B1 was replaced by C5 a few years ago. Both are 20w btw.
IMO availability and affordability are some of the factors which go into recommending certain grades in various markets. 10w/15w-X are cheaper to produce. It doesn't mean that a 20w is inadequate.
That's of course fine if that's what you prefer. Consumers buy products for all sorts of subjective reasons.What it boils down to, 0/20 doesn't have a very high HTHS, the hottest area of an engine for sure is under the pistons, I would prefer to have a higher viscosity for film strength to deal with all that heat. Same goes I would prefer to have that heavier viscosity for the timing chain.
I have a co worker that had a Acura TSX, don't remember year. He was absolutely horrible about changing oil. I told him run a good extended oil filter like a Wix XP, and M1 0/40. Well he ran just a generic dino 5/30. His timing chain broke at 200k he said. Ran dino oil never really changed, just added when low. He junked the car. Such a waste. These K24 will run 500k easy if maintained.That's of course fine if that's what you prefer. Consumers buy products for all sorts of subjective reasons.