Honda EU2000i and Mower oil choice

Joined
Feb 4, 2020
Messages
453
Location
MI
I have a Honda EU2000i inverter generator with the GX100 engine in it. My lawnmower has the GCV160 engine.
I've been working through a jug of 10W-30 Mobil 1 mixed with a couple quarts of Honda Power Equipment 10W-30 in both the mower and generator and have finally come to the end of it. These engines take so little oil that it took me many years to work through the jug of 10W-30. I've hit the rebates pretty good this spring and have a good quantity of these oils (listed below) in the garage, so I'm not really keen on buying any more. I prefer to use what I have on hand.

The generator user manual text says to use 10W-30, SJ or higher oil. The temperature chart shows both 5W-30 and 10W-30 as acceptable across all temperature ranges.

In my garage I have a few choices:
1. Castrol ActEvo Motorcycle oil 'part synthetic' 10W-30, SL
2. Mobil 1 Automotive oil 5W-30, SN+
3. Valvoline Synthetic Motorcycle oil 10W-40, SJ

Winters don't get below zero very often here in southern Michigan, so I don't really need a 5W oil. It started right up with the 10W-30 in January whenever I've needed it. Summers are mild in Michigan, so no fear of endless 100+ degree days.

I use this generator only a few times a year when I camp in a rustic campground, typically running it a few hours to recharge the camper battery once or twice per weekend. Of course, the generator will also be used for the occasional power outage at home. Lately we have been lucky the past years and only been out for a few hours at a time and never even needed to use the generator at home.

I'm not too worried about the mower as it has been fed a diet of oil drippings of all grades from all the empty bottles from my family's vehicles, topped off with 10W-30 for the past 12 years. The generator has only seen 10W-30 it's entire life.



Which of the three oils listed would you recommend?
Right now, I'm leaning toward the Castrol 10W-30 as it is the correct grade.
(and no, I'm not buying any Rotella
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You should buy Rotella T6
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use them all just keep an eye if there is any increased oil consumption.
 
Ha Ha, Funny guy!
I hear ya about oil consumption. right now, neither consume any oil. Oil changes in the fall look clean and almost new.
I've read some people have consumption in the GCV160 when using 5W-30. I haven't tried it, so I don't know.
 
I have a Honda HRX mower (GCV190 engine) that's had a steady diet of 15w40 (any flavor) for the past 6 years, and not a hiccup.
I don't think either engine is particular about oil, be it a 30 or 40wt. I prefer a 40wt in air cooled engines in the summer, but for a generator like yours - the above-suggested T6 or a good stout 10w30 (GC or Rotella) would be fine, and the 5w40 would get your generator through the winter months with ease.
 
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OP:
Quote
Which of the 3 listed oils should I use?



First response:

Originally Posted by CT8
You should buy Rotella T6
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use them all just keep an eye if there is any increased oil consumption.



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OP you will be fine using any of those 10w30 oils in your Honda engines. Like mentioned, keep tabs on any oil consumption, but Honda usually recommends 10w30 in their OPE anyway, so you should be perfectly fine.
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I think the choice of Mequiars or Nu Finish polish on said pieces of equipment is a little more relevant, don't you think? Probably make a bigger difference than the oil
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I work on Honda GX engines on a weekly basis. Lots of commercial users have them and they run all day every day. I've seen an EU7000 with 8k hours on it that still ran like a top, after a valve adjustment.

The GX doesn't care what you feed it. Straight 30, 15W40, 5W30 full synthetic. Just remember to change it. Last week I put a new piston and rod assembly in a GX200 that burned away all its oil and was run nearly dry (and it still ran, just with a lot of slop and smoke). Put it back together, filled it up with Maxlife 10W40 and now it will go back into a service truck and run 12 hours a day until I see it again.

The GC should be treated more carefully. It has an aluminum bore and a rubber band timing belt.
 
Just remember: no matter what oil you use, add Lucas to prevent dry starts! It will reduce friction for less wear too! Honestly if all my customers used it I would be out of business.
 
Originally Posted by CharlotteB
Just remember: no matter what oil you use, add Lucas to prevent dry starts! It will reduce friction for less wear too! Honestly if all my customers used it I would be out of business.

Lol, really?
 
Originally Posted by CharlotteB
I work on Honda GX engines on a weekly basis. Lots of commercial users have them and they run all day every day. I've seen an EU7000 with 8k hours on it that still ran like a top, after a valve adjustment.

The GX doesn't care what you feed it. Straight 30, 15W40, 5W30 full synthetic. Just remember to change it. Last week I put a new piston and rod assembly in a GX200 that burned away all its oil and was run nearly dry (and it still ran, just with a lot of slop and smoke). Put it back together, filled it up with Maxlife 10W40 and now it will go back into a service truck and run 12 hours a day until I see it again.

The GC should be treated more carefully. It has an aluminum bore and a rubber band timing belt.


Good to know the GX is quite durable. I've read that people can get 1000's of hours out of them.

My GCV160 mower runs about 30+ hrs per year for over 12 years now. That's close to 400 hrs on the aluminum bore and 10W-30. Still doesn't use any oil, doesn't smoke, starts 1st or 2nd pull, and oil comes out clean in the fall. So far so good.
 
The GC can be a good engine, I'm just saying you can't beat on it for thousands of hours like you can with a GX. Heck, the GX engines even get built up for racing!

I was being facetious about the Lucas, lol.
 
Originally Posted by tig1
M1 5-30

Well....I would exclude that one form an equation...

Reasons:

1) its most probably API/ILSAC only...yes I am looking down on oils that are without MB/BMW/VW combo...

2) consequently...since its API/ILSAC...its most probably watered down energy conserving junk with a lower HTHS....you just dont need that in an (aircooled) OPE

3) moreover.....I would stay away from oils with spread too wide (0w30 0w40...) in an (aircooled OPE) unless it is needed (ie for winter use)...

4)....
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I would first fill it up with option 1) to breake it in (part-synthetic oil)

Then....option 3)..... First its sae40oil...second its synthetic (aircooled OPE)...
 
I would choose the one with the highest HTHS viscosity. Personally I use Mobil1 10w-30 High Mileage with 3.5 HTHS in most of my OPE, but Rotella T6 5w-40 in the generators. Unlike most of the lawn toys, the generators might be called upon to run at temperatures anywhere from zero to 100 degrees F. My mowers don't need to run below 40 degrees, and I am never in a mood to run them above 90 degrees either.
 
Out the 3 you mention I would run the Castrol ActEvo Motorcycle oil 'part synthetic' 10W-30. I have the E2000i and
it had always a 10/30 in it, I don't know how many hours on it but I always change the oil at least once a year.

Edit to add check your air filter and keep a spare spark plug. Use the sae spark plug that came OEM.
 
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I have 2 Honda EU2000 generators and a new Honda Commercial HRC216 mower. I was using the Honda 10-30 but just bought 3 gallons of Delo 400 XLE
10w30. It was $15 a gallon with a $7 rebate from Chevron. Meets the spec and was $2 a quart. The Honda oil was $4 a quart.
 
I use any oil I have extra of, always good oil. Sometimes Frankenstein oil of below oils. I have a Honda 2011 9 hp 2 stage. I just bought my second Honda lawnmower last year because they raised the bag exit tunnel to shot out at the top of the bag and not the lower part of the bag, = game changer.
My Honda's get Mobil 1, Mobil 1 5w-30 ESP, Redline Performance Euro 5w-30, RotellaT6, Rotella Gas Truck, 5w30, plus more through the years.
 
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