This is what I’m putting in my 3.5 EcoBoost, as well.
High Performance Lubricants No VII series engine oils.
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Deleted member 89374
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When talking 5w30 is there any reason to use the PCMO over the Euro?
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Deleted member 89374
The only reason why I can think of is if you have an engine that's known to burn oil, then you should probably pick the PCMO because of lower SAPS. Other than that, absolutely no reason. Since all of their oils contain high amounts of Moly and the detergent formulation is a mix of Calcium and Magnesium, LSPI is a non-issue with either oil.
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I gotcha, it will be going in my 22 Tacoma so this oil is overkill for this truck. Been wanting to switch to 10k OCI, now just gotta decide what filter to pair it with.
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Deleted member 89374
Actually this oil can handle combustion byproducts and contaminants like no other. Combined with the excellent cleaning abilities and superior lubricity (above most motor oils), you can do extended OCIs with it, provided that your sump is not micro-sized and you're willing to change your filter once in a while. If your sump is small, I would do a filter change every 5K miles, and maybe go 15K, depending on your idling time. I haven't yet decided how I'm going to proceed from here on out. For now I'm thinking yearly oil changes, which is about 7K~8K per year/vehicle for me. So no in-between filter changes. I'm probably throwing away good oil at that point, however, I need these vehicles to last us for a very long time and won't cheap out on oil, for sure. Each of our vehicles takes on 6 quarts, so there is that. In the Hyundai I can put in 7, but that's because the folks who wrote the owner's manual were probably Liberal Arts students.
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Thanks for this info. I am still on the fence about 10K OCI's. I know they are fine to do, but I don't mind changing the oil/filter.
Edit: Just did the math on about how many miles per year i would do, and its very low. Under 10k easily. Now I like the 10K OCI's even more now.
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Deleted member 89374
You have a 9.2 quart sump. It can probably hold 10 quarts without any issues. Yeah, with this oil, and that big of a sump, you can easily go over 10K miles on a OCI, probably on one filter if it's not a tiny one.
Did you even lookup the oil capacity for a 22 Tacoma before commenting?
6.2 is what I see for both engine options.
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Deleted member 89374
You're right. I misread the capacity by reading it from the next page (coolant) on my phone. Small screen, and the "coolant" part was rolled up.
And just when I thought Toyota finally went all Euro-style on their sump sizes. So dissapointing, lol. My bad, sorry about that @jackjoachim.
[Edit]
The screen I was looking at:
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I ordered the 10w20 for my Mazda. My thought was narrow spread would be good for resisting degradation from fuel dilution. Not that cold here, would be slightly thicker cold when diluted with fuel, than the 5/20 would be.
Probably splitting hairs. Any of them will probably work well with DI.
No, fuel is simple dilution of viscosity here. Enough dilution and it will go out of grade like any other oil.
Yes it will help with permanent or temporary degradation of the VII since there aren’t any, but the greatest contributor to viscosity loss is just the fuel itself.
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Yes, that's what I meant. Repeated dilution and boil off ( distillation if you will) not degrading the oil.
And 10winter would be a tad more viscous than the 5w until the fuel boils out.
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Deleted member 89374
It will degrade it, but slower than it would most other oils.
Here's a good example of how HPL no-VII stands up to fuel dilution:
The thread and work belongs to @RDY4WAR and can be found here: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/2022-mazda-cx-9-hpl-pcmo-10w-20-7-211-miles.360267/
It will dilute it but how will it degrade it?
My question has always been , and I asked at the open house; how does repeated fuel dilution boil off affect the oil? What gets left behind from the fuel distillation?
The HPL panel stated that fuel dilution reduces the effectiveness of the zddp. But what from the fuel is left behind after boil off ? And how does that affect the oil?
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So they never completely answered your question?
It was stated that ethanol reduces the effectiveness of ZDDP. It's because ZDDP is an ester which can undergo transesterification from reactions with the alcohol. It's a complicated chemical process, see Le Chatelier's principle to learn more about it. That said, ethanol boils at 174°F and only comprises 10% of the fuel volume. So long as the engine is fully warmed up, the ethanol wash isn't going to be a major issue. The majority of the fuel left behind in the oil are your heavy aromatics and n-olefins like toluene, xylenes, ethylbenzenes, etc... that have boiling points as high as 400°F for some of them and won't evaporate out.
Most E10 and E0 pump fuel has a 50% distillation point between 200-225°F. If the engine is being run at full temperature and showing dilution in the UOA after a long drive, it's likely the actual amount of fuel entering the crankcase is about double that amount. The UOA is only seeing the ~50% that didn't evaporate out.
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