High oil temp while towing: need more PAO/Ester, or more viscosity?

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by Eddddd
No need to worry about wear protection with the 0W20 oil and a heavier weight oil won't necessarily give you better protection. I say you are fine with the 0W20.

Why not? MOFT always wins. Sounds like better protection to me.

And it's a grade, not a weight.

Summer towing, I'd be running a 5W30 in it.

 

[4WD]

Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
I lean toward adding an oil cooler and/or higher capacity oil pan with a more thermally stable oil as opposed to increasing oil viscosity.


Comparing my 2010 5.3L to my newer generation they did … along with piston jets … better oil pump etc, etc …

 

[4WD]

Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr
If you care about wear protection step up the viscosity. Higher viscosity provides greater water protection period.


Hope that includes the Guadalupe up there, lovely river

 

[Driz]

I'd worry more about the transmission myself. That cooler if it's like my 15 year older GMC Sierra isn't really that big. I stuck a $25 generic right in front of my radiator plumbed right in line with their tiny one. Real simple insurance you might consider once you bust warranty. Trannies on those are always more the real worry, not HD by any stretch.
Isn't it a bit odd for your OP to drop that much when it's hot? My old pig with the same mill doesn't drop anything lie that when it's idling hot . None of my old 350s did either that I can recall. The gauge isn't so accurate and small so you have to judge it visually though. My buddies old 2003 6l started doing that recently . I sure could see the drop on his. Since it was beat to death as a plow truck I can imagine what That means...¿for him. .
Once free of the warranty you might want to look into an oversized oil pan or possibly some sort of HD fan kit . They must make something that will cool it down in hard use. Remember well, GM, Gretta and the Climate Cult are more than happy to see your truck die a premature death. It's in all their best interests not yours. Oil that will take it is just a band aid for the real issue,🔥heat.

 

[Eddddd]

Originally Posted by CKN
Originally Posted by zuluplus30
2017 Silverado 5.3 towing 7.5k on a routine basis now. Coolant temps hold at 207, then up to 215-220 until the fans pull it back to 207. I notice when I stop, the oil psi drops to
My question is keep running 0w-20 Dexos (Currently on M1EP) and stay with a higher PAO/Ester oil, or step up a grade to 0w-30/5W-30 for the higher HTHS? I don't give 2 squats about MPG. This is purely for wear protection.

Edit: Almost out of powertrain warranty so viscosity in regards to warranty are moot.


I tow all over the Rocky Mountain West (2018-5.3 Silverado) up very high mountain passes it appears that are not in your part of the country without issues-using what the manual recommends 0/20w. You are searching for a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.


+1

 

[Bryanccfshr]

Originally Posted by 4WD
Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr
If you care about wear protection step up the viscosity. Higher viscosity provides greater water protection period.


Hope that includes the Guadalupe up there, lovely river



Thank you for the excellent way to point out my typo! Yes both the Guadalupe and Comal rivers will be better protected!

 

[userfriendly]

I had 2 black labs named Lupe. The last one Lupe II, a female lived to 15 1/2 on 15w40.

 

[PandaBear]

I wouldn't worry about it. You are using it as it was intended and it is already factored into the coolant and oil flow. If anything I would be more worried about ATF temperature instead.

 

[alarmguy]

Originally Posted by hemitom
you answered your own question.

I would be running 5w30 .


Yes ^^
Im in a warmer climate and never used any 20's ... always 5/30 no use for a 20 in my state.

2017 Chevy Traverse (v6) w/tow package actually calls for 5/30

but I also run 5/30 in wifes Mazda 3 sky active.

and ran it for over 10 years in the truck that replaced the Chevy traverse which was a 2008 Dodge Durango w/4.7

As far as oil pressure, to me its something people should ignore and not a reason to switch oil weight because those reasons are normally wrong. )
I run the oil I do because of the climate I am in and use of the vehicles.

If you live in a hot or warm climate, or do a lot of interstate, or towing or live in hilly terrain is good enough reason to go up one grade in the oil if you are using a 20.
Its really not a big deal or thought process needed.

Ps, oil temp and engine temp are two different animals. Though of course if the engine is hot you know the oil it hotter )

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted by MolaKule
Or, use a 5W20 which has less VII and uses slightly higher viscosity base oils.



Theres been plenty of the old 2 valve 5.4 Fords run HARD on 5w-20 and they held up fine. Also equipped with an oil cooler.

 

[Eddddd]

For us morons. LOL
https://youtu.be/gcEmlewYWY8

 

[Gene K]

I thought one of the reasons for 0W-20 in the newer 5300 was to keep the camshaft lifters alive.

 

[userfriendly]

No, you must be thinking of 15w40.

 

[wwillson]

I struggle in understanding why push button tech has anything to do with people inadvertently leaving vehicles running...it's no different than if you left a physical key in the ignition and got out of the car. Vehicles beep at you when you remove the key with it running, and many have the option to keep the doors locked until the engine is shut off which is more than what was around in the past for keyed ignition safeguards. IMO, it's people's distraction that has increased this and not the technology.