High Mileage Oil to Stop a Leak

What if that fails to get the point across? Often simple terms have to be used as most do not understand the proper names, formulas, reactions, etc. Their eyes glaze over too quickly.
And what if it does get your point across? Perhaps you're underestimating your audience. You can always respond to questions from those who need clarification ...
 
I took a look at the label on my M1 High Mileage oil today and noticed that it said that it's useful for preventing leaks. There was no mention of the oil stopping leaks. My experience is that it didn't stop a leak in my previous car. Based on the M1 label, I'd not hold out any great hope for the oil to stop a leak, although I'm sure there are some instances where that's happened. Just wanted to share that bit of info from the M1 label.
Id say that its asking a lot of it to stop leaks. It certainly will prevent leaks and may stop very, very minor oil seepage but its not magic.
 
Id say that its asking a lot of it to stop leaks. It certainly will prevent leaks and may stop very, very minor oil seepage but its not magic.
It's possible that some people see seepage and call it a leak, then claim that the oil stopped a leak. Just a thought ...

As nouns the difference between seepage and leak ...

... is that seepage is the process by which a liquid leaks through a porous substance; the process of seeping while leak is a crack, crevice, fissure, or hole which admits water or other fluid, or lets it escape.
 
What if that fails to get the point across? Often simple terms have to be used as most do not understand the proper names, formulas, reactions, etc. Their eyes glaze over too quickly.
Eyes do glaze over, but it's a good thing to at least give accurate information before the glazing starts. My point in that exchange is that "drying out" and"dehydrating" is referring to water, and besides the fact that it obviously isn't water it's also not correct that something leaves the polymer to cause it to degrade. Nothing is leaving, evaporating nor drying out. It is what heat and age is doing to the polymer structure that's the problem.

Which also gets to the bigger problem as to what an external agent can do to undo or correct the degradation. The answer is "not much". At the end of the day no one is going to add anything to the oil that will un-crosslink the polymer and restore it to the original condition.
 
Once the seals harden up, wear out and leak, no oil is going to fix it for the long term.
 
What if that fails to get the point across? Often simple terms have to be used as most do not understand the proper names, formulas, reactions, etc. Their eyes glaze over too quickly.
On this site, more than any other, I would think the proper technical explanation would be preferred.

If you’re going to use “layman’s terms” and analogies - I would preface them, otherwise, they appear to be ignorance.
 
It may or may not slow or stop a leak. It might be worth a try though. There is enough anecdotal evidence posted here over the years claiming it has actually stopped leaks. YMMV
 
Fair enough; it appears I am wrong on this one.
I wasn’t saying that, I’m just saying on an oil site, you’re likely to find a group that wants technical accuracy about oil.

When I’m talking airplanes with fellow pilots, we don’t use layman’s terms or analogies, we talk in technical terms, with shared understanding.
 
I wasn’t saying that, I’m just saying on an oil site, you’re likely to find a group that wants technical accuracy about oil.

When I’m talking airplanes with fellow pilots, we don’t use layman’s terms or analogies, we talk in technical terms, with shared understanding.
When I m am flying my 747 and getting ready to land I say pull the lever that makes the wings work like they are bigger. Lower the wheels
 
I had slow leaks on my 99 LeSabre as well as my 2015 CRV. I started using Castrol GTX synthetic blend high mileage in the Buick and Castro edge high mileage in the Honda. After two OCI’s, the oil loss was reduced by about 50%. After the fourth OCI using these oils, I now have no oil loss during my 5000 OCI’s in either vehicle. I cannot think of any other variable or change that I have made other than going from non-HM oils to the HM variety. I have not tried other brands other than Castro, but there is no reason to think that the other brands would not have at least a chance of having a similar effect. Does this mean that HM oils work in every leak situation? I’m sure they don’t, but I’m not going to look a gift horse in the mouth since I no longer have to top off either of these vehicles nor do I have to mop up oil drips on the driveway anymore. It is at least worth a shot to try them and if you try enough OCI’s in testing with these oils, there should not be any harm done even if, at the worst, they don’t work for you.
 
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I’ve never seen an hm oil stop a leak.
Pennzoil conventional 10W-30 HM stopped a slight RMS leak in the '02 Wrangler in one 3K OCI. Unfortunately I put in Super Tech FS 10W-30 HM and the leak came back worse in 2k miles. Dumped it and put Pennzoil back in but haven't put enough miles on to see if it dries up again.

So does oil leak past the seal or seep through the seal per ShelB's definitions above?
 
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I took a look at the label on my M1 High Mileage oil today and noticed that it said that it's useful for preventing leaks. There was no mention of the oil stopping leaks. My experience is that it didn't stop a leak in my previous car. Based on the M1 label, I'd not hold out any great hope for the oil to stop a leak, although I'm sure there are some instances where that's happened. Just wanted to share that bit of info from the M1 label.
The only things that can stop a damaged seal from leaking (without replacing it of course) is stuff that never belongs inside an engine in the first place.

Unless you’re looking to sell the car in short order, bite the bullet & replace the offending seal; it’s the only way to stop the leak in a way you’d be proud to show your friends.

For ideas on why this is a bad idea, read this product description, its application notes, and then decide for yourself: is this something anyone with a basic understanding of the English language would pour into their crankcase??

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/bluedevil-oil-stop-leak-49499

And remember: a slightly-hardened elastomer that weeps a little oil is not a leak!
 
Unless you’re looking to sell the car in short order, bite the bullet & replace the offending seal; it’s the only way to stop the leak in a way you’d be proud to show your friends.

Spending $1200 + to have the RMS replaced in a $3000 '02 Xterra doesn't make good economic sense. I wouldn't put that BlueDevil in the engine but trying different HM oils and products that seem to have lots of positive reviews like AT-205 is inexpensive and who knows, maybe something will make a difference.
 


I plan on using AT-205 on my 1999 F150 5.4L 2v on next oil change (coming up next week) along with Valvoline RP
 
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