Hi-Po Engine oil ?

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A friend is building an aluminum-head 383 stroker for his 1968 Camaro, for street use. For some reason, his engine builder said he'd recommend against running synthetic oil in his engines...ever. He recommends only Valvoline Racing for the sreet.
Would anyone have any idea why? Just wondering.
 
I'm running vr-1 10w30 in my BMW and it definitely runs worse on cold starts and my mpg is bad if I take short trips... M1 0w40 was definitely a better oil overall, I hardly believe your friend is stuck running that $8 a quart oil. I would try HDEO or some other big brand 40wt oils, those should fill the order for extra anti-wear pressure additives for older motors and cost you a lot less than VR1; I would have not bought it if it wasn't $5 a qt and had just short of an OCI in my stash.
 
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
Because he is old, set in his ways.....And had a bad experience with an engine run on synthetic.....Once upon a time.

This ^^. Also, whole purpose of synthetic oil is to extend OCI or for use in a high performance / high output engines.
Engine in question is not performance engine, and it's carburetted so long OCI are out of the question. Mechanic was right recommending non-synthetic oil IMO.
 
Originally Posted By: oldhp
Flat tappet cam.



???? There are plenty of synthetic oils with high levels of ZDDP.
 
For a lot of people, the first good or bad experience defines if using a product is positive or negative.

Before "full synthetic" meant containing mostly visom or severely hydrotreated base oils (ie. Group III), synthetic oils would typically contain 70 or more percent PAO (Group IV) and a fairly good dosage of esters (Group V). Oil companies were selling gas mileage, extreme weather, performance and longetivity advantages by going to synthetic motor oil, promoting all the reasons it's better than conventional. Unsuspecting folks who had already put significant mileage on their middle-aged and older vehicles sometimes would think they ought to give a synthetic a try. What they did not realize was the seals and gaskets in their engine were in poor condition and the only thing preventing leaks was all the varnish, resin and sludge that was gumming up the holes. So after running the high percentage PAO synthetic (which also shrinks seals and gaskets) for a few weeks, the synthetic oil would dissolve all the junk holding the gaskets together and there would be oil running out of every seal and gasket on the engine and a big puddle on their driveway. To people who have a hard time thinking through their strategy to the next paycheck, synthetic oil was a problematic useless scheme that oil companies concocted to get a higher price per can/ bottle.

Several older mechanics I know generalize, "just because it's good for a few days in a racing event in a race car doesn't make it worthwhile for street driven vehicles." With that one bad experience or perhaps an account of it from another driver, they have not realized that seal and gasket materials have significantly improved, making them more resistant to synthetic attack, and - the vast majority of synthetic base stock is no longer Group IV or V, it's III - which has very little seal attack properties by comparison, and it is actually cheaper in the long run to run synthetic because extended oil changes will reduce the cost per mile in oil expenses to less than that for conventional oil. And further - even the extra expensive "real" (German-approved) synthetics carry seal-sweller chemicals which prevent PAO seal shrinking.

Probably a case of someone who was once burned by a hot stove who now tells everyone to stay away from it.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: oldhp
Flat tappet cam.



???? There are plenty of synthetic oils with high levels of ZDDP.


Op's question was why engine builder said no synthetic oil. I said flat tappet cam as maybe builder's reason. That's all............................
 
Originally Posted By: oldhp
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: oldhp
Flat tappet cam.



???? There are plenty of synthetic oils with high levels of ZDDP.


Op's question was why engine builder said no synthetic oil. I said flat tappet cam as maybe builder's reason. That's all............................


Thanks for elaborating
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: DC_Stewart
A friend is building an aluminum-head 383 stroker for his 1968 Camaro, for street use. For some reason, his engine builder said he'd recommend against running synthetic oil in his engines...ever. He recommends only Valvoline Racing for the sreet.
Would anyone have any idea why? Just wondering.


DC... many Hemi engine builders will say the same. I've used VR1 for many years with great results.

.
 
It's extremely interesting that even this board is split. I've always thought that the "slipperyness" of full synthetic would far outweigh the perceived benefits of any other oil. This is a very expensive engine that will be run hard, and the thought of running it on non-synthetic oil seems ludicrous to me, but then, I guess there are reasons for anything.
 
Originally Posted By: DC_Stewart
It's extremely interesting that even this board is split. I've always thought that the "slipperyness" of full synthetic would far outweigh the perceived benefits of any other oil. This is a very expensive engine that will be run hard, and the thought of running it on non-synthetic oil seems ludicrous to me, but then, I guess there are reasons for anything.


Synthetic oil is slippier than conventional?
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: DC_Stewart
It's extremely interesting that even this board is split. I've always thought that the "slipperyness" of full synthetic would far outweigh the perceived benefits of any other oil. This is a very expensive engine that will be run hard, and the thought of running it on non-synthetic oil seems ludicrous to me, but then, I guess there are reasons for anything.


Synthetic oil is slippier than conventional?


Synthetic oils do have a lower coefficient of friction.
 
A synthetic like Mobil 1 High Mileage would be fine. But I'd only use it if you're driving a lot. Personally I'd use Quaker State Defy, which is a syn blend that is SL-rated and high in Zinc...
 
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Valvoline racing is a good oil. But so is Delo 15W40 and all other HDEO oils.

Depending on valve spring pressure and roller cam vs flat tappet is why he recommends what he does.
 
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