I'll be sending in the 9000 for UOA in a few months. I'm interested to see how it has performed.
Here is a tough one that's under heavy debate
- Thread starter Hummell
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Originally Posted By: mva
The 10W60 was introduced by BMW in response to crank bearing failures in the S54 engine.
Sorta kinda.
The crank bearing failures were a result of a manufacturing defect. The defect was later corrected. Around that time, BMW figured the 10w-60 was a good idea anyway, so that's the moment they chose to introduce it along with a few other tweaks.
They stayed with the 10w-60 AFTER the crank bearing failures were corrected because it was a good idea.
Originally Posted By: mva
Depending on the year, there could be a bearing recall/replacement for your car.
'02+ isn't affected.
Originally Posted By: mva
10W60 is probably only required in extreme conditions. But if it was my car, I would stick to the BMW oil and follow the oil monitor or less for oil change intervals to maintain resale value and peace of mind.
Here, I agree.
Most E46 M3 owners I know do their oil changes every 50% on the OLM (so twice as often). That's probably the farthest you need to go to take care of that engine (notwithstanding proper break-in).
The 10W60 was introduced by BMW in response to crank bearing failures in the S54 engine.
Sorta kinda.
The crank bearing failures were a result of a manufacturing defect. The defect was later corrected. Around that time, BMW figured the 10w-60 was a good idea anyway, so that's the moment they chose to introduce it along with a few other tweaks.
They stayed with the 10w-60 AFTER the crank bearing failures were corrected because it was a good idea.
Originally Posted By: mva
Depending on the year, there could be a bearing recall/replacement for your car.
'02+ isn't affected.
Originally Posted By: mva
10W60 is probably only required in extreme conditions. But if it was my car, I would stick to the BMW oil and follow the oil monitor or less for oil change intervals to maintain resale value and peace of mind.
Here, I agree.
Most E46 M3 owners I know do their oil changes every 50% on the OLM (so twice as often). That's probably the farthest you need to go to take care of that engine (notwithstanding proper break-in).
I don't have near the high end cars you guys are talking about, but after several years of experimentation, I have concluded that sticking to the manufacturer recommendation with a quality oil is all I really need to do. Experimenting has been fun over the years, but I finally realized I probably don't know as much as the team of engineers, or the millions of R&D spend to design it. Just an opinion....
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
The crank bearing failures were a result of a manufacturing defect. The defect was later corrected. Around that time, BMW figured the 10w-60 was a good idea anyway, so that's the moment they chose to introduce it along with a few other tweaks.
I think it was a design defect, not a manufacturing defect. We are splitting hairs but the fix was to put in larger bearings with more surface area - more load capacity.
10W60 oil will also help keep the crank from touching and spinning the bearing under high load, hot conditions.
The crank bearing failures were a result of a manufacturing defect. The defect was later corrected. Around that time, BMW figured the 10w-60 was a good idea anyway, so that's the moment they chose to introduce it along with a few other tweaks.
I think it was a design defect, not a manufacturing defect. We are splitting hairs but the fix was to put in larger bearings with more surface area - more load capacity.
10W60 oil will also help keep the crank from touching and spinning the bearing under high load, hot conditions.
Here are some photos of spun and damaged bearings on a 2002 S54
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1026994&highlight=s54+bearings
I may be wrong on the fix for the s54 bearings - here are more photos and details:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1219661&highlight=bearing+coating
Quote from 2nd link:
"I'm actually a bit surprised the S54 are bigger in diameter. There are two conflicting results of the bigger size. First is the obvious larger / stronger crank pin. That's a given. But the bigger diameter also increases the relative speed of the bearing verse crank pin. This will lead to earlier lubricant shearing and overheating; oil breakdown. So it would appear that not only is the redline higher on the S54, but the bearing speed is roughly 9% higher. We may have here the root of the bearing failure problem."
Stick with the castrol 10W60!
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1026994&highlight=s54+bearings
I may be wrong on the fix for the s54 bearings - here are more photos and details:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1219661&highlight=bearing+coating
Quote from 2nd link:
"I'm actually a bit surprised the S54 are bigger in diameter. There are two conflicting results of the bigger size. First is the obvious larger / stronger crank pin. That's a given. But the bigger diameter also increases the relative speed of the bearing verse crank pin. This will lead to earlier lubricant shearing and overheating; oil breakdown. So it would appear that not only is the redline higher on the S54, but the bearing speed is roughly 9% higher. We may have here the root of the bearing failure problem."
Stick with the castrol 10W60!
Originally Posted By: mva
Here are some photos of spun and damaged bearings on a 2002 S54
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1026994&highlight=s54+bearings
One car does not constitute a systematic issue....
However, it seems you're right, and the actual year is 2003, not 2002. I stand corrected.
Originally Posted By: mva
I may be wrong on the fix for the s54 bearings - here are more photos and details:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1219661&highlight=bearing+coating
Quote from 2nd link:
"I'm actually a bit surprised the S54 are bigger in diameter. There are two conflicting results of the bigger size. First is the obvious larger / stronger crank pin. That's a given. But the bigger diameter also increases the relative speed of the bearing verse crank pin. This will lead to earlier lubricant shearing and overheating; oil breakdown. So it would appear that not only is the redline higher on the S54, but the bearing speed is roughly 9% higher. We may have here the root of the bearing failure problem."
Stick with the castrol 10W60!
That link compares S52 with S54 bearings, not pre/post recall S54 bearings.
Here are some photos of spun and damaged bearings on a 2002 S54
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1026994&highlight=s54+bearings
One car does not constitute a systematic issue....
However, it seems you're right, and the actual year is 2003, not 2002. I stand corrected.
Originally Posted By: mva
I may be wrong on the fix for the s54 bearings - here are more photos and details:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1219661&highlight=bearing+coating
Quote from 2nd link:
"I'm actually a bit surprised the S54 are bigger in diameter. There are two conflicting results of the bigger size. First is the obvious larger / stronger crank pin. That's a given. But the bigger diameter also increases the relative speed of the bearing verse crank pin. This will lead to earlier lubricant shearing and overheating; oil breakdown. So it would appear that not only is the redline higher on the S54, but the bearing speed is roughly 9% higher. We may have here the root of the bearing failure problem."
Stick with the castrol 10W60!
That link compares S52 with S54 bearings, not pre/post recall S54 bearings.
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
That link compares S52 with S54 bearings, not pre/post recall S54 bearings.
Agreed. I was wrong about the bearing size change - going by memory on my earlier post.
I am not sure what was changed for the recall but I do know that the bearings get replaced.
That link compares S52 with S54 bearings, not pre/post recall S54 bearings.
Agreed. I was wrong about the bearing size change - going by memory on my earlier post.
I am not sure what was changed for the recall but I do know that the bearings get replaced.
I would look for used oil analysis of the Castrol 10W-60.
There must be lots of them, posted by Castrol 10W-60 users proving their point.... right?
There must be lots of them, posted by Castrol 10W-60 users proving their point.... right?
I was under the impression that a Racing Oil was, by definition, low on the additive pack needed for longer term protection, ie: meant for racing and not daily commuting? So the Schaeffer's racing oil makes me wonder.
Originally Posted By: Spector
I was under the impression that a Racing Oil was, by definition, low on the additive pack needed for longer term protection, ie: meant for racing and not daily commuting? So the Schaeffer's racing oil makes me wonder.
Usually, that's true.
There are some "racing" oils that do have enough street-oriented additives for street use. Motul 300V is one example. Such oils have to run relatively short OCIs, but they are great for street use otherwise.
Schaeffer is claiming that the racing 5w-50 meets several street oil specs, so I'm guessing it is of that type. I'm not sure exactly what most of those specs entail, though, so I could be wrong.
I was under the impression that a Racing Oil was, by definition, low on the additive pack needed for longer term protection, ie: meant for racing and not daily commuting? So the Schaeffer's racing oil makes me wonder.
Usually, that's true.
There are some "racing" oils that do have enough street-oriented additives for street use. Motul 300V is one example. Such oils have to run relatively short OCIs, but they are great for street use otherwise.
Schaeffer is claiming that the racing 5w-50 meets several street oil specs, so I'm guessing it is of that type. I'm not sure exactly what most of those specs entail, though, so I could be wrong.
I'll be sending this stuff in for a used oil analysis after I'm done running it. Either way I'm going to give the TWS a shot next go-round for a comparison. I drive the car as it should be driven...nothing too crazy. I love to go fast though. Redlined every now and then, but almost certainly revved to 6500-7k with each drive.
I'm not smart enough, but is there a way to compare the two, TWS 10w-60 and the Scheaffer's 9000 Supreme 5w-50 out of the box for initial variances in formulation?
I'm not smart enough, but is there a way to compare the two, TWS 10w-60 and the Scheaffer's 9000 Supreme 5w-50 out of the box for initial variances in formulation?
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: Hummell
Hey, nice to have a fellow m3'er here. My car never operates at those temperatures. It's a vert, so it never sees any track time. I can, however, get 0-45 very quickly in the city
I haven't found too many cars who can hang with me from stoplight to stoplight LOL
That brings up a good question. Is it bad to have such a heavy duty oil, like the 10w-60, if you're never breaking down the viscosity? Seems like it might be counterproductive to have a high viscosity oil in your engine if you're just running up to the grocery store for a few Guinness.
I sincerely doubt it would be any worse or more counterproductive than using an E46 M3 for that kind of duty.
Castrol TWS 10w-60 is probably one of the best lubricants ever made. I wouldn't sweat the thought that it is too thick, especially since BMW validates its cars in pretty much the whole gamut of climates (i.e. including ones where oil temps would be fairly low).
Besides, short temps = fuel dilution = breakdown. With an oil like TWS, fuel dilution might actually be more likely to break it down than heat or mechanical shear from hard driving.
Things have changed SO MUCH since the E30 1988-1991 4-Cyl. M3 that Revs like a Honda! (though it is N0T a Honda)
I need to do some research on what Oil THAT M3 used, as well as the E36 M3 (S52.) Perhaps re-engineering BMW's Oil Recommendation can be achieved if we look at what oils the M3s used in Sequence!
I didnt have the M3 and i never took mine to the Track but i Did have Ireland Engineering parts in mine. Granted i did NOT have the E46 M3 you are talking about, but this thread makes me want to look into one.
The Ultimate Driving Machine.... And yes, i used 5W-50 in mine. Either Castrol Syntec, or Pennzoil "Whatever they called it in early 2000s" it was always on Clearance at RS Strauss Auto Stores.
This makes me give a nod to that grade for your app... as far as "Short-Tripping, why is 10W-60 Needed for that," Well it shouldnt make much difference as the Oil is still warming up, if it shears at full temp and engine does not Get to full temp, .... Worry about its behavior when it IS at Full Temp!
That M3 has Oil Temperature gauge does not it?
(Also, the unofficialbmw.com Board is great. Not sure if those are the individuals saying Horrible things will happen to your engine if you dont put 10W-60 in it, but surely some of them also use 5W-50. If there is a way to monitor Pressures when Hot and Cold, this should shed some Insight.. NOACK Volatility no doubt is a great measurement of how well it will stand up to the High-Rev Hard application of a Track! The Oil Pan has Baffles to help it stay where it needs to be, i thought about getting it in my older one but i concluded i never pushed it -that- hard. How many Quarts in that Sump?)
Originally Posted By: Hummell
Hey, nice to have a fellow m3'er here. My car never operates at those temperatures. It's a vert, so it never sees any track time. I can, however, get 0-45 very quickly in the city
That brings up a good question. Is it bad to have such a heavy duty oil, like the 10w-60, if you're never breaking down the viscosity? Seems like it might be counterproductive to have a high viscosity oil in your engine if you're just running up to the grocery store for a few Guinness.
I sincerely doubt it would be any worse or more counterproductive than using an E46 M3 for that kind of duty.
Castrol TWS 10w-60 is probably one of the best lubricants ever made. I wouldn't sweat the thought that it is too thick, especially since BMW validates its cars in pretty much the whole gamut of climates (i.e. including ones where oil temps would be fairly low).
Besides, short temps = fuel dilution = breakdown. With an oil like TWS, fuel dilution might actually be more likely to break it down than heat or mechanical shear from hard driving.
Things have changed SO MUCH since the E30 1988-1991 4-Cyl. M3 that Revs like a Honda! (though it is N0T a Honda)
I need to do some research on what Oil THAT M3 used, as well as the E36 M3 (S52.) Perhaps re-engineering BMW's Oil Recommendation can be achieved if we look at what oils the M3s used in Sequence!
I didnt have the M3 and i never took mine to the Track but i Did have Ireland Engineering parts in mine. Granted i did NOT have the E46 M3 you are talking about, but this thread makes me want to look into one.
The Ultimate Driving Machine.... And yes, i used 5W-50 in mine. Either Castrol Syntec, or Pennzoil "Whatever they called it in early 2000s" it was always on Clearance at RS Strauss Auto Stores.
This makes me give a nod to that grade for your app... as far as "Short-Tripping, why is 10W-60 Needed for that," Well it shouldnt make much difference as the Oil is still warming up, if it shears at full temp and engine does not Get to full temp, .... Worry about its behavior when it IS at Full Temp!
That M3 has Oil Temperature gauge does not it?
(Also, the unofficialbmw.com Board is great. Not sure if those are the individuals saying Horrible things will happen to your engine if you dont put 10W-60 in it, but surely some of them also use 5W-50. If there is a way to monitor Pressures when Hot and Cold, this should shed some Insight.. NOACK Volatility no doubt is a great measurement of how well it will stand up to the High-Rev Hard application of a Track! The Oil Pan has Baffles to help it stay where it needs to be, i thought about getting it in my older one but i concluded i never pushed it -that- hard. How many Quarts in that Sump?)
Yeah, it's got a temperature guage. I've never seen the oil temp in the car get over 212...and it was only AT 212 for a minute or two. The car usually hangs just below 210.
Originally Posted By: Hummell
Yeah, it's got a temperature guage. I've never seen the oil temp in the car get over 212...and it was only AT 212 for a minute or two. The car usually hangs just below 210.
See? You should be fine. Higher temps would indicate an issue, if the Oil is cooling THAT Well, then it is doing its Job! Now, is that with the 5W-50 or the 10W-60? And surely, that temp was while "Tracking" It? If you do so on a Hmid 100-degree day it may notch Higher, as well as Coolant temp.... which is where im sure the BMW Purists at unofficialbmw.com would HAPPILY say "See? Better have the 10W-60 in there because of x and y and z"... Not caring if their Product Sheared or not!
Dare i say it, try Porsche's Lubro-Moly made 10W-60... is that an idea? Lol, driving up in Porsche dealership ready to spend $8 a quart for however many Quarts, but just explain, "I want to treat my M3 like a 911" or some other such pleasing line...
Im just making the point. IF there is a very very good 5W-50 Product, try it out. Compare specs, and look at "NOACK Volatility," because if it is not burning off then it is staying there, under hard use.. other measures as well! THEN look at 10W-60 of same, and see which you like.
5W-50 sounds as though it should be ok, particularly one that gives a "Thicker" "50" number (Hot) .. Because like others say, if the "60" shears back down to a "50" or so anyways, then something is amiss!!!
Yeah, it's got a temperature guage. I've never seen the oil temp in the car get over 212...and it was only AT 212 for a minute or two. The car usually hangs just below 210.
See? You should be fine. Higher temps would indicate an issue, if the Oil is cooling THAT Well, then it is doing its Job! Now, is that with the 5W-50 or the 10W-60? And surely, that temp was while "Tracking" It? If you do so on a Hmid 100-degree day it may notch Higher, as well as Coolant temp.... which is where im sure the BMW Purists at unofficialbmw.com would HAPPILY say "See? Better have the 10W-60 in there because of x and y and z"... Not caring if their Product Sheared or not!
Dare i say it, try Porsche's Lubro-Moly made 10W-60... is that an idea? Lol, driving up in Porsche dealership ready to spend $8 a quart for however many Quarts, but just explain, "I want to treat my M3 like a 911" or some other such pleasing line...
Im just making the point. IF there is a very very good 5W-50 Product, try it out. Compare specs, and look at "NOACK Volatility," because if it is not burning off then it is staying there, under hard use.. other measures as well! THEN look at 10W-60 of same, and see which you like.
5W-50 sounds as though it should be ok, particularly one that gives a "Thicker" "50" number (Hot) .. Because like others say, if the "60" shears back down to a "50" or so anyways, then something is amiss!!!
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Have they issued some kind of warranty to back the use of 5w30 for the E46 M3 in street use? Red Line is a pretty trustworthy company for sure, but sticking one's neck out usually entails actually putting something on the line besides one's word.
That's an unfair comment about RL. They have nothing to gain in suggesting a lighter grade of oil since they make the 10W-60 grade. They state from the outset that the BMW 10W-60 recommendation is controversial but they have chosen to step into the discussion and give an informed opinion based on their own first hand experience with the engine in question. I for one respect the company all the more for it.
For the OP, since you don't track your car, a quick burst of acceleration every now and then doesn't increase oil temp's so that you'd notice.
It's all about being familiar with the maximum hot oil pressure in your engine. Run the lightest oil that still provides adequate pressure at maximum rev's and I believe that's 5.75 bar or 85 psi for the M3. A 30wt oil with a HTHS vis of 3.5 cP should comfortably statisfy that requirement.
Have they issued some kind of warranty to back the use of 5w30 for the E46 M3 in street use? Red Line is a pretty trustworthy company for sure, but sticking one's neck out usually entails actually putting something on the line besides one's word.
That's an unfair comment about RL. They have nothing to gain in suggesting a lighter grade of oil since they make the 10W-60 grade. They state from the outset that the BMW 10W-60 recommendation is controversial but they have chosen to step into the discussion and give an informed opinion based on their own first hand experience with the engine in question. I for one respect the company all the more for it.
For the OP, since you don't track your car, a quick burst of acceleration every now and then doesn't increase oil temp's so that you'd notice.
It's all about being familiar with the maximum hot oil pressure in your engine. Run the lightest oil that still provides adequate pressure at maximum rev's and I believe that's 5.75 bar or 85 psi for the M3. A 30wt oil with a HTHS vis of 3.5 cP should comfortably statisfy that requirement.
No, the 210 temperature, where it usually sits, is while daily driving the car under normal driving conditions. The guage goes from 120 to 300:
http://home.comcast.net/~nidlezp/bmw/instrument_cluster.JPG
Is oil temperature the main thing to consider with respect to how well a specific oil is working in a given application?
http://home.comcast.net/~nidlezp/bmw/instrument_cluster.JPG
Is oil temperature the main thing to consider with respect to how well a specific oil is working in a given application?
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Have they issued some kind of warranty to back the use of 5w30 for the E46 M3 in street use? Red Line is a pretty trustworthy company for sure, but sticking one's neck out usually entails actually putting something on the line besides one's word.
That's an unfair comment about RL. They have nothing to gain in suggesting a lighter grade of oil since they make the 10W-60 grade. They state from the outset that the BMW 10W-60 recommendation is controversial but they have chosen to step into the discussion and give an informed opinion based on their own first hand experience with the engine in question. I for one respect the company all the more for it.
For the OP, since you don't track your car, a quick burst of acceleration every now and then doesn't increase oil temp's so that you'd notice.
It's all about being familiar with the maximum hot oil pressure in your engine. Run the lightest oil that still provides adequate pressure at maximum rev's and I believe that's 5.75 bar or 85 psi for the M3. A 30wt oil with a HTHS vis of 3.5 cP should comfortably statisfy that requirement.
That is very helpful information, Caterham. This is going to be a terribly noobish question, but how can I gauge the pressure at maximum revs?
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Have they issued some kind of warranty to back the use of 5w30 for the E46 M3 in street use? Red Line is a pretty trustworthy company for sure, but sticking one's neck out usually entails actually putting something on the line besides one's word.
That's an unfair comment about RL. They have nothing to gain in suggesting a lighter grade of oil since they make the 10W-60 grade. They state from the outset that the BMW 10W-60 recommendation is controversial but they have chosen to step into the discussion and give an informed opinion based on their own first hand experience with the engine in question. I for one respect the company all the more for it.
For the OP, since you don't track your car, a quick burst of acceleration every now and then doesn't increase oil temp's so that you'd notice.
It's all about being familiar with the maximum hot oil pressure in your engine. Run the lightest oil that still provides adequate pressure at maximum rev's and I believe that's 5.75 bar or 85 psi for the M3. A 30wt oil with a HTHS vis of 3.5 cP should comfortably statisfy that requirement.
That is very helpful information, Caterham. This is going to be a terribly noobish question, but how can I gauge the pressure at maximum revs?
Originally Posted By: Hummell
No, the 210 temperature, where it usually sits, is while daily driving the car under normal driving conditions. The guage goes from 120 to 300:
http://home.comcast.net/~nidlezp/bmw/instrument_cluster.JPG
Is oil temperature the main thing to consider with respect to how well a specific oil is working in a given application?
Basic Guidelines abut Temperature vs "How Well it is Lubricating:"
1. If the Temperature stays -Relatively- Cool/Warm, it is because the Oil is doing a good job of Lubricating. If an area of the Engine was starved, that area would he Hotter and probably bring the Overall Temp up with it (Too thin an Oil, Film not working.) At 210 Degrees normal temp, it appears to be Fully Warmed. If it gets up higher on a Hot day and under HARD use, that is because mre Heat is being Generated, and the Oil is carrying it as it circulates. Coolant, too. However, "Maximum Lubricity" should be being achieved.. if not, the Temperature would be Higher!
2. Temperature is not to be confused with Pressure. However, at Fully Warmed Temperature, Pressure should be a bit Lower. What that means is that good "Flow" is achieved too, and "Flow" is more imprtant than "Pressure" (Kink in a Garden Hose example.)
Hope this helps.
As to 2nd question, "Gauging it at Maximum RPMs"... .... May i suggest Redlining the BMW at a Strip in all of its Gears, and sneaking a peek at what the Gauges do? BMW surely has some good Gauges, to judge Engine health and such.
IMHO... This M3 is -Lucky- to have such a Responsible and Attentive Owner! I dont think it will ever Fuss up at you, as your M3 certainly isnt a "Beater." People do some -Horrible- things to a fine machine, if it falls into the wrong hands.
I second the whole thing about "Why do people opt to save money on Oil." But that is another topic.. and one that does not apply to you.
Good man, Hummel!
No, the 210 temperature, where it usually sits, is while daily driving the car under normal driving conditions. The guage goes from 120 to 300:
http://home.comcast.net/~nidlezp/bmw/instrument_cluster.JPG
Is oil temperature the main thing to consider with respect to how well a specific oil is working in a given application?
Basic Guidelines abut Temperature vs "How Well it is Lubricating:"
1. If the Temperature stays -Relatively- Cool/Warm, it is because the Oil is doing a good job of Lubricating. If an area of the Engine was starved, that area would he Hotter and probably bring the Overall Temp up with it (Too thin an Oil, Film not working.) At 210 Degrees normal temp, it appears to be Fully Warmed. If it gets up higher on a Hot day and under HARD use, that is because mre Heat is being Generated, and the Oil is carrying it as it circulates. Coolant, too. However, "Maximum Lubricity" should be being achieved.. if not, the Temperature would be Higher!
2. Temperature is not to be confused with Pressure. However, at Fully Warmed Temperature, Pressure should be a bit Lower. What that means is that good "Flow" is achieved too, and "Flow" is more imprtant than "Pressure" (Kink in a Garden Hose example.)
Hope this helps.
As to 2nd question, "Gauging it at Maximum RPMs"... .... May i suggest Redlining the BMW at a Strip in all of its Gears, and sneaking a peek at what the Gauges do? BMW surely has some good Gauges, to judge Engine health and such.
IMHO... This M3 is -Lucky- to have such a Responsible and Attentive Owner! I dont think it will ever Fuss up at you, as your M3 certainly isnt a "Beater." People do some -Horrible- things to a fine machine, if it falls into the wrong hands.
I second the whole thing about "Why do people opt to save money on Oil." But that is another topic.. and one that does not apply to you.
Good man, Hummel!
Hey, thanks, Homer! 
No doubt about it that I love the car...just ask my wife. She's pretty jealous of it. LOL
Thank you for all of the insight and pointers. I feel pretty good about it after considering your well thought out responses.
I appreciate it!
Here she is:
No doubt about it that I love the car...just ask my wife. She's pretty jealous of it. LOLThank you for all of the insight and pointers. I feel pretty good about it after considering your well thought out responses.
I appreciate it!
Here she is:
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.. Not a Problem, Hummel! I too have fond memories of my Ultimate Driving Machine. had to sell it. So, to reach back and help out another BMW loyalist, and that is a -FINE- E46 (WASH THE BUGS OFF THE BACK!!! lol,) .... Keep On Truckin.
Here is an Approximation of My Ride. Its Tag line is -Most- Appropriate.
Glory Days, i tell ya. Perhaps with another $2000 ill get another! And ill Race ya any day.. You got a -Convertible,- its a totally different Car, that BMW vs the one in the Pic!
Got T-Bird now. Seriously considering a Weekend Toy like pictured car, though.
Here is an Approximation of My Ride. Its Tag line is -Most- Appropriate.
Glory Days, i tell ya. Perhaps with another $2000 ill get another! And ill Race ya any day.. You got a -Convertible,- its a totally different Car, that BMW vs the one in the Pic!
Got T-Bird now. Seriously considering a Weekend Toy like pictured car, though.
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