Help with Control Arm Bushing Removal

[The Critic]

I am trying to replace the circled bushing:

This is what the replacement bushing looks like:

One side of the bushing is "flanged" and larger. The opposite side appears to be rubber. In order to remove the bushing I think you have to push on the rubber side since it is the smaller of the two. Since it is rubber, I don't think normal press cups would work. I would prefer to not burn out the bushing if possible.

What is the best way to remove/install this bushing?

 

[eljefino]

Run some allthread through both itself and the other bushing, with appropriate washers/arbors to catch the control arm frame where you want to, and miss it where you want to. Then crank on the nuts in the middle.

 

[tank]

I always used an air chisel. Worked great.

 

[Trav]

^^ This, air hammer if there is room. It doesn't look like a lot of area for a cup on the metal side, if there is a cup threaded rod, nuts and washers and heavy washer on the rubber part. Cobble something together.
If that doesn't work a large deep socket on the metal flange that is big enough to let the inner pull in to and break the middle out. Cut the metal shell with a hacksaw blade.
Do not set bushings on fire in pressed steel or aluminum arms, iron okay.

 

[Mainia]

Flat grind the socket nut end face "gently" on the side of a 8 inch grinder, grinding wheel so the end of the socket has some flat area and not rounded area to get all kitty wompous. Then use the largest grade 8 nuts, washers and bolts that will fit in the bushing hole. Moly grease is on the treads are must. Use some heat to soften the bushing rubber without burning it/smoke. I used a quality hole saw blade and ground down 50% of the teeth on the side of the 8 inch grinder while rotating the hole saw. I then used some steel 3 inch 1/4 strap with a hole drilled in for the on top of the hole saw blade so load would hit the circumference of the blade walls. 3/4 to 1 inch LARGE sockets and be used too. I bought a set at Harbor Freight just for pressing stuff in and out. I have a press so I use that now.

 

[Timmastertech]

I always use an air hammer to remove bushings then press to reinstall

 

[Chris142]

I would burn the old rubber out then use an air chisel to remove the old sleeve. Then press the new one on with all thread and lots of lube

 

[wrcsixeight]

I drilled out the rubber on mine in order to remove inner sleeve and then rubber, then cut a slit in the outersleeve with a dremel and cut off wheel, then tamped those cut edges inward.

I think it is unlikely to be able to be pressed out, without mangling the control arm.

Pressing the new one in took much more effort with a 20 ton press than I expected on my UCA's

 

[E365]

Run some allthread through both itself and the other bushing, with appropriate washers/arbors to catch the control arm frame where you want to, and miss it where you want to. Then crank on the nuts in the middle.

I agree. I used to use 1/2” Grade 8 All-thread on E30 BMW semi-trailing arm bushings which are kinda similar to these.

*As long as the OP’s bushings are inline with each other *

 

[Snagglefoot]

Good luck with the bushing but for next time I would consider the cost of a new control arm. I’ve seen cases where a bushing was $30 and a complete control arm with a bushing was $60. YRMV.

 

[Mainia]

Good luck with the bushing but for next time I would consider the cost of a new control arm. I’ve seen cases where a bushing was $30 and a complete control arm with a bushing was $60. YRMV.

Yes I do that too, for regular cars. I just did that at work on a delivery vechile as it had bad ball joints. The van had 120,000 so I just replaced the whole control arm to get it back to new OEM specs the easiest way.

With my Hyundai Kona AWD tuner car I pressed out the OEM bushing to put in semi solid bushings. You are R&R ing bushings. For the larger ones I "pinned" the bushing in with 6) 3/32 roll pins speced at 1,100 shear to make sure the bushing did not come out as in my designed control arm, the "second round" of adding a bushing makes the press in hole not as tight a a new control arm that never had a bushing in it. I did this also when I swapped out the soft rear suspenion trailing arm Kona bushing for a stiff Hyundai Veloster N rear trailing arm/swing arm bushing. Pressed it back in, it too has 6,600 lbs of 6) 1,100 roll pin helping hold the bushings in for safety.

 

[The Critic]

In summary, I was unable to fabricate a setup that would allow me to remove the bushing efficiently.

I returned the bushing and installed new Moog R-line control arms.

(I needed a piece of pipe/tubing to support the two sections of the control arm in order to prevent flexing, but I did not have anything around.)

 

[1000MPH]

Timmy the Toolman has a vid on removing the bushings on a Toyota UCA using chisels to create a gap then a bearing splitter in his press. But the Toyotas have enough flange to work with and looks like you did not.