Help With Ball Joint Removal on '92 Camry

[The Critic]

Hey guys.

I was replacing the halfshafts on my friend's '92 Camry today and noticed that the lower ball joints were leaking. I was not surprised at this discovery though, considering that these are the original ball joints at 230k.

Unfortunately I am having some difficulty removing them. The ball joints are bolted into the knuckle with the stud pointing upward. Attached to the ball joint is a bolt on adapter which attaches to the control arm. I do not have a picture of it from the car, but here's a picture of an E46 BMW with a similar design:

From this picture you can see what I mean by the ball joint is bolted with the stud pointing upward. Right now, I have the ball joint unbolted but it will not come out of the knuckle. I tried tapping the stud, but the ball joint won't come out.

Since it was late, I left the car in the garage and will finish it tomorrow. But I did a little searching and noticed that I may need a ball joint "fork tool" which will wedge the ball joint out.

What is the best way to remove this ball joint?

Thanks!

 

[Shannow]

Heaps of ways.

Tapping the stud sort of works sometimes. Make sure that the nut is on if you want to re-use the stud, as you can mushroom the threads really easily.

You can get a couple of different designs of balljoint splitters, some have threads that bear down on the stud, others are like reverse clamps...Pickle forks are best avoided.

http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=SN2&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&&sa=X&ei=TYGMTIrALMmwcZ_25Y8E&ved=0CB0QvwUoAQ&q=ball+joint+separator&spell=1

Can often get tehm to pop simply by putting a large hammer (as an anvil), on one side, and giving a few smart whacks with a smaller hammer opposite (hammer faces parallel to the stud)

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Heaps of ways.

Tapping the stud sort of works sometimes. Make sure that the nut is on if you want to re-use the stud, as you can mushroom the threads really easily.

You can get a couple of different designs of balljoint splitters, some have threads that bear down on the stud, others are like reverse clamps...Pickle forks are best avoided.

http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=SN2&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&&sa=X&ei=TYGMTIrALMmwcZ_25Y8E&ved=0CB0QvwUoAQ&q=ball+joint+separator&spell=1

Can often get tehm to pop simply by putting a large hammer (as an anvil), on one side, and giving a few smart whacks with a smaller hammer opposite (hammer faces parallel to the stud)

I've tried hitting the stud but I have already destroyed the threads and reached the point of no return, so further damage doesn't concern me.

I am replacing the ball joints due to leaks so it's okay if i have to destroy the threads in order to remove them.

 

[NEOhio_Bob]

Two thoughts...have you tried an air hammer on the stud? They are often very efficient for problems such as this. Alternatively, how about heat? Even a common propane torch will usually provide enough heat to solve problems such as this one. Get the knuckle as hot as you can, then wack the ball joint stud with a good sized hammer, and it should pop loose.

 

[The_Jeff]

This the critter?

I'd pickle fork it.

 

[robshelton]

I see your situation now! Here's what I do. On the passenger side rotate the knuckle all the way to the right (tie rod assy pushed in) and using a 2 or 3 lb hammer give the knuckle a wack right where the ball joint stud passes thru. The stud is tapered and it will pop up and loose. It is a little weird but you have to hit it fairly hard. You will have to swing from below the car - shoulder on the ground - to get the angle right so you can impact where you need to shock it. Or since you are going to replace it anyway, the pickle fork or ball joint separator will work. It can fool you as when it comes loose it still looks "Installed" so pry down on the control arm after a couple of whacks to see.

 

[firefighter]

Sometimes I don't like to use tools to remove as they can damage the boot, but since you are at the point of know return put a pickle fork on it.
The other way I like, take a long prybar and wedge under the subframe but ontop of the lower control arm and have someone pull down with some light to moderate pressure, then on or two whacks with a large hammer on the side of the knuckle where the stud comes through and it should pop out.
Best of luck and remember to torque those axle nuts to specs, put a little oil on the back side of the nut and on the threads to achieve proper torque.

 

[Familyguy]

I normally use one of these when I want to separate the ball joint without destroying things:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605...ku=00996404000P

When I don't care about destroying the ball joint, I use my air chisel with a pickle fork attachment. That usually does the job in about 5 seconds.

One of these:

http://www.amazon.com/190-Pneumatic-Air-Hammer-Chisel/dp/B000JM77W8

Plus one of these:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kti81996.html

You can probably buy all thise stuff at your local Harbor Freight or perhaps even Sears.

Best,

 

[The_Eric]

Put the nut part of the way back on and drive a 3/4 or 7/8 chisel in-between the nut and cv shaft. On occasion you'll have to stack two together but with a minimum of effort, it should pop right out.

 

[mechtech2]

Good manly type taps with a hand sledge around the circumference, THEN a good hard blow right on the stud will get it out.
Also , a tool called a 'pickle fork' can be wedged in between and hit with a heavy hammer.

 

[Herz]

Get a pickle fork from NAPA and a nice 15 pound sledge. Or put the nut back on the stud and use the 15 pound sledge on it.

 

[mechtech2]

If you are not going to reuse the part, there is no need for putting the nut on it when hitting it.
it only saves the threads.

 

[nthach]

Pickle fork or a BIG drift and a sledgehammer. If you have one, air hammer can also work nicely.