Just replaced driver's side lower ball joint

[mojoe]

on my 2003 Camry after watching a few YouTube videos. It was my first attempt at this particular job, and by far, the hardest part was getting that %$#*#@ cotter pin out of the castle nut. It took nearly an hour. I eventually broke it off and found a skinny punch I could knock it out with. Also, it took me a while hammering on the knuckle to get the ball joint to drop out (I was afraid I was going to beak something). All-in-all, not really a difficult job. The other side should be a whole lot quicker and easier!

Any tips, or "learning curve" experiences you'd like to share?

 

[rijndael]

You can clip the cotter pin off somewhat flush and zip the nut off with an impact. It'll ruin the nut and threads, but it doesn't matter. You just need to be able to get the socket on. It's best if you can cut off the looped side.

You can also cut it flush and send in a drill bit to drill it out.

 

[joekingcorvette]

Congrats on doing that job yourself! That is something beyond my expertise or should I say desire to do at my age. My brother did something like that and it took a lot work and time and he said he would never attempt that job again. Great job though!

 

[mojoe]

You can clip the cotter pin off somewhat flush and zip the nut off with an impact. It'll ruin the nut and threads, but it doesn't matter. You just need to be able to get the socket on. It's best if you can cut off the looped side.

You can also cut it flush and send in a drill bit to drill it out.

You can also cut it flush and send in a drill bit to drill it out.

I may try that on the other side. Thanks!

 

[D60]

As Eric O said in exactly that situation, "I'm done asking."

Just clip it enough a socket will fit and give it the beans. The remainder of the cotter will just shear.

A less aggressive technique is grab the head with dikes and lever it out, using the castle nut as a fulcrum. Pliers will slip but dikes will bite. Obviously, if you squeeze too hard you'll just clip the pin, so you have to use your "soft mouth" like a bird dog

 

[CleanSump]

The scary part is using pickle fork with a hand sledge to separate the old one. It can take a good whack. Tap, tap, tap like with some rusted parts doesn't seem to be affective on tapered ball joints.
The c-clamp type tools don't always want to work for me.

 

[The_Jeff]

Pickle forks are reliable and good when you're going to trash the part anyway.

Toyota ball joints are great because they bolt into the LCA. GM and others rivet theirs, so you have to do a lot of drilling and grinding before you... bolt the new parts in.

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

As Eric O said in exactly that situation, "I'm done asking."

Just clip it enough a socket will fit and give it the beans. The remainder of the cotter will just shear.

A less aggressive technique is grab the head with dikes and lever it out, using the castle nut as a fulcrum. Pliers will slip but dikes will bite. Obviously, if you squeeze too hard you'll just clip the pin, so you have to use your "soft mouth" like a bird dog

The dike way is the right way. Makes it simple. Also when doing front end work, you probably don't have a big enough hammer if you are a first timer. A good air hammer is also a miracle worker

 

[CleanSump]

If the loop of the cotter key is open you can use a tapered punch slipped in to pry it out. Sometimes they're so rusty it just breaks the loop though.
I've also straightened the bent legs with needle nose pliers then wiggled/rotated the loop while pulling.

 

[mojoe]

If the loop of the cotter key is open you can use a tapered punch slipped in to pry it out. Sometimes they're so rusty it just breaks the loop though.
I've also straightened the bent legs with needle nose pliers then wiggled/rotated the loop while pulling.

I tried straightening the bent legs and pulling, but couldn't get it to budge (no rust to speak of). I wound up breaking the legs of and knocking it through with a hammer and punch. I like the idea of using a punch in the loop to pry it out. I will give that a go on the other side. Thanks!

 

[zzyzzx]

I've never had any real issue removing a used cotter pin. You just bend it straight then put a pick (or something) through the open loop part and pull it out.

 

[Arc]

on my 2003 Camry after watching a few YouTube videos. It was my first attempt at this particular job, and by far, the hardest part was getting that %$#*#@ cotter pin out of the castle nut. It took nearly an hour. I eventually broke it off and found a skinny punch I could knock it out with. Also, it took me a while hammering on the knuckle to get the ball joint to drop out (I was afraid I was going to beak something). All-in-all, not really a difficult job. The other side should be a whole lot quicker and easier!

Any tips, or "learning curve" experiences you'd like to share?

Ball joints are easy. Wait until you try removing big rubber bushings from the lower control arms of a pickup. Now that is a tough job.