Yeah it seems like the ate the cost of the gap insurance to make the deal go through.
You should never need gap insurance on a used car. And if you traded in a paid off Leaf you should have positive equity. (not much but some!)
Yeah it seems like the ate the cost of the gap insurance to make the deal go through.
A Nissan Leaf with a broken battery that only goes 20 miles of range isn't worth muchYou should never need gap insurance on a used car. And if you traded in a paid off Leaf you should have positive equity. (not much but some!)
In a no money down situation, yeah, gap insurance becomes more important for some people. If you have enough cash in the bank though, you don't need gap insurance. In case you don't know what it is (if you do, I apologize), if the loan is $5000 but the vehicle depreciates to $3000, if it were totaled, regular insurance will only write a check for $3000. The bank will be holding their hand out for the add'l $2000 before they give up the title though. Gap insurance covers that "gap".Is Gap Insurance something you have to get if you put no money down? Or with no money down a lender will not do the loan unless Gap Insurance is taken by the buyer?
I was half kidding, but that's what I personally would pay for such as car. In fact I wrote "in my book".Based on what? In this post-covid market, a 20 year old beater can fetch $1200+ unless it's located out in the boonedocks or salvage title. I'm sure some auction prices are lower, but that's a gamble in itself and vehicles likely needing work/$$$$ put into them.
I haven't priced Volt batteries recently but would guess that the battery alone is worth near twice that, unless it has very high miles.
How much were they charging for gap insurance ?Yeah it seems like the ate the cost of the gap insurance to make the deal go through.
$600How much were they charging for gap insurance ?
That's really, really low for gap insurance (and over the course of X years of the loan). $600 broke the loan with the credit union ? That's pretty surprising.$600
What was wrong with the Escape that you would trade it for this Leaf? Or is your description of broken battery 20 miles facetious?A Nissan Leaf with a broken battery that only goes 20 miles of range isn't worth much![]()
It isn't. They were probably close to LTV thresholds and the $600 pushed it over the edge.That's really, really low for gap insurance (and over the course of X years of the loan). $600 broke the loan with the credit union ? That's pretty surprising.
I told you not to get excited about this.Alright, I have an update. I called the bank/lender and they said they sent the dealer back a lower number and I went to the dealer and they claimed everything is fine and that I have nothing to worry about and can keep the car.
So I guess all this didn't matter, I just overreacted to the letter I received.
ALL dealers do spot deliveries, have been doing it for YEARS, and some dealers are VERY aggressive about it. The odds of losing a sale are dramatically reduced when you are driving their vehicle.Agreed. Sounds like a shady dealer to me. They wanted to move the car.
No I’m serious the leaf battery health was at 5 bars out of 12 so it had about 20 miles range. My main job is only 5 miles from home so I worked out. But just chasing the chargers was getting tiresome.What was wrong with the Escape that you would trade it for this Leaf? Or is your description of broken battery 20 miles facetious?
This has been an interesting thread. I’ve only bought a few cars from a dealer in my life, and only financed a few.
I had no idea of the chicanery that can, and clearly does, take place.
I appreciate the OP sharing this. I’ve learned a lot from the responses.
It's definitely a thing. However some of it is necessity vs chicanery...
Lets say your buying a car on Sunday - obviously Banks aren't available but the finance office has guidelines based on a persons credit report and the lenders they normally do business with they know what will fly most of the time so they write the contract on the at basis... then the shop the lenders when they open to seethe wants the loan. probably 99 out of 100 times this works out fine at a reputable dealer, but sometimes not. If the dealer did in fact eat some or all of his gap insurance to make it fly, that's a far better than typical result when things go awry.
Less reputable dealers or those serving a certain clientele may use this practice in less than honorable ways, but in a credit driven society its necessary on some level.
I think the reason we were all sort of surprised is that the normal process with a credit union at least in my experience is that you pre apply for the loan and they send you a pre approval letter you take to the dealer, It basically says "He/She is good to $XX,XXX.XX". The LTV is surprising the last time i boufgt one using the credit union the conversation went something like "I want to buy a Ducati" / "How much is it?" / "about $22,000.00" / OK - Ill send you an approval letter /
If i new the exact one they would even send a check to me and the dealer and it had a line on the back that said basically by endorsing the check the dealer agreed to record a lien on the vehicle.
Excellent outcome and in the end you paid less. Congrats.Alright, I have an update. I called the bank/lender and they said they sent the dealer back a lower number and I went to the dealer and they claimed everything is fine and that I have nothing to worry about and can keep the car.
So I guess all this didn't matter, I just overreacted to the letter I received.
In this case my vehicle purchase was on a week day around mid day. Everybody involved should have been awake.
Have to make assumptions here but yeah, the loan amount was probably pushing the threshold and then the gap pushed it over. I think in some circumstances, 'my' credit union would bend their rules a little bit after looking at "data" they have access to (about me or any borrower).It isn't. They were probably close to LTV thresholds and the $600 pushed it over the edge.
Have to make assumptions here but yeah, the loan amount was probably pushing the threshold and then the gap pushed it over. I think in some circumstances, 'my' credit union would bend their rules a little bit after looking at "data" they have access to (about me or any borrower).
It was more than likely the total number. Lenders typically like that you purchase gap coverage. If something happens (like the vehicle gets totaled or stolen) their interests are protected and YOU are paying for it.I wonder if the lender is informed that it was gap insurance that changed the amount? Or they just see the total number?