Nothing wrong with it of course IF you do it correctly. Not many people paying cash for newer used cars...really pretty similar to buying a new one. Buying much older cars with a loan of course is more risky but you lose the depreciation risk of being upside down if you don't put enough down. Bottom line to me has always been - 20% down and get the shortest loan term you can afford, get it paid off, drive it. Done it many times on used cars without drama in my life.Borrowing money on a used car?
Walk away.
I wouldn’t be so optimistic that NF will not screw you over. It is still a financial institution after all. I have my first and only credit with NF. It was for the longest time at an 8% interest rate. Last year it increased to 14%. I’m a 20 year member keep in mind. Good thing the increase is irrelevant to my situation. It gets paid off every month. I cannot even remember the last time I paid any interest on the card. However make no mistake NF did not almost double my rate because they have my best interest at heart.I think for me, one of the biggest things you can do to prevent drama buying new/used cars is....secure your own financing. Take that out of the dealer equation. I've almost always had a loan from my credit union for cars I've bought/financed. You get approved for an amount and have a blank check up to the amount to write at the dealer - if they can beat it and the loan isn't garbage/strange/etc. then so be it. I've actually taken my credit union's loans over better financing deals b/c in the end, Navy Federal Credit Union isn't going to screw me over as a long-time member (~30+ years). No drama/no worry about any of this. I have recently for my two newest vehicles (the 2018 VWs in the fleet) used dealer financing as a tool to get the absolute lowest OTD price (b/c they make that money back plus some in the finance incentives) b/c of course, the loans weren't great but it didn't matter b/c I knew both would be paid off in the first year and the math showed I would be ahead doing it that way. In the event that something happened...no issue, just re-fi with my bank and move along.
They increased your rate b/c if you haven't noticed....inflation = FED raising rate = higher rates now. All my cards and variable rate loans have gone up. That has nothing to do with you getting screwed over. NFCU is a v. solid credit union and conducts business "nromally" vs. this garbage the OP is dealing with.I wouldn’t be so optimistic that NF will not screw you over. It is still a financial institution after all. I have my first and only credit with NF. It was for the longest time at an 8% interest rate. Last year it increased to 14%. I’m a 20 year member keep in mind. Good thing the increase is irrelevant to my situation. It gets paid off every month. I cannot even remember the last time I paid any interest on the card. However make no mistake NF did not almost double my rate because they have my best interest at heart.
^ See what I did there![]()
NF is ok. I have moved most of my stuff to USAA and will probably get rid of the card soon anyways.They increased your rate b/c if you haven't noticed....inflation = FED raising rate = higher rates now. All my cards and variable rate loans have gone up. That has nothing to do with you getting screwed over. NFCU is a v. solid credit union and conducts business "nromally" vs. this garbage the OP is dealing with.
My APR is 13.15% as of current and was ~7% for the longest time....
I suggest making the payment to yourself and bank the money for 6 months or more. Then go in with a strong down.Not trying to be an bhsurfer here, but really if you need to finance a car, save over half the down. I'm not going to lecture anyone about paying all cash, but that is best.
Funny....I use USAA for a lot of my banking...they are definitely not looking out for you like they used to.NF is ok. I have moved most of my stuff to USAA and will probably get rid of the card soon anyways.
Sorry this happened to the OP. Agree with Pablo, paying cash is critical for many reasons. Work three jobs if you can to get cash together, And when one works three jobs, very little time to spend money.Not trying to be an bhsurfer here, but really if you need to finance a car, save over half the down. I'm not going to lecture anyone about paying all cash, but that is best.
My bank accounts are with USAA. I've been a customer of theirs for a long time. Their service has gone down hill, and there's very little benefit to using them if their customer service is average. Their insurance is higher than most, their interest rates on savings accounts are pitiful, their auto loans are roughly a point lower than most, but they're certainly not the lowest out there. I'm just losing reasons for staying with them.Funny....I use USAA for a lot of my banking...they are definitely not looking out for you like they used to.
I don’t think any of them are…Funny....I use USAA for a lot of my banking...they are definitely not looking out for you like they used to.
No, the lender only knows the loan is for a year, make, and model with "X" miles and buyer wants to borrow "Y" dollars. As long as the vehicle is worth "Y" and the buyer meets their credit criteria, they'll approve the loan. They don't care if you put down 1/2 the value of the car, then added an extended warranty, gap insurance, maintenance plan, etc.I wonder if the lender is informed that it was gap insurance that changed the amount? Or they just see the total number?
A lot of us here are in a position to pay half down or pay cash for a nice, (even new) vehicle but that just isn't reality for most young working people. Especially in California. It seems the OP is trying to get away from the moon & back mileage old stuff he's been buying and wrenching since he's been around here. Pretty sure he said he works 2 or 3 jobs. Live and learn.Not trying to be an bhsurfer here, but really if you need to finance a car, save over half the down. I'm not going to lecture anyone about paying all cash, but that is best.
When we bought our last new car (back in 2013) local credit union did just that, basically by listing some options on the car when they were calcing the LTV. IIRC correctly it was to give us a better rate rather than skirt the max LTV as we weren't putting money down if we didn't have to (only put "down" manufacturer incentives).Have to make assumptions here but yeah, the loan amount was probably pushing the threshold and then the gap pushed it over. I think in some circumstances, 'my' credit union would bend their rules a little bit after looking at "data" they have access to (about me or any borrower).
This thread addresses that question:Possibly a stupid question but how do you have possession of a vehicle before the loan is not finalized (ie. vehicle not paid for)? I have always obtained financing from my bank whenever I've borrowed, they deposit the funds in my account and I write a check for the purchase. Is this not the normal procedure?