Help fixing bike please

[JWC86]

Hi guys, I’m going to start by saying I’m not a bicycle guy, I don’t know the terminology and don’t know how to fix them. I do have a lot of experience fixing motorcycles but all this bicycle stuff is foreign to me.

I was tearing into my 2012(I think) Giant Trance x2 to grease things up to hopefully get rid of some creaking and do some general maintenance. I swapped the brake line sides and bleed/flushed the brakes no problem.

Then I noticed this play in the crankset bearings?


I assume the bearings are shot and need to be replaced, I assume this isn’t something that is adjusted to take the play out. If I remember correctly I had a shop replace these 4-5 years ago.

I want to to the work myself and willing to buy the tools. I’d like to have a better understanding of working on these things anyways.

I tried to remove the crankset but it appears this isn’t a “self extracting” crankset design and I couldn’t get the drive side crank to move at all. Looks like I need a puller. From my research it looks like a Park Tool CWP-7 is the correct puller.

I would like to order the bearings at the same time to cut down on shipping cost and whatever else I might need but have no clue what bearings I need and how to tell?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[JWC86]

Doing some research it looks like that tube that the crank passes through is called a “bottom bracket” here’s some pictures

 

[TCL]

You might want to check if the tube/bottom bracket the bearings fit into isn't cracked from a hard landing.

 

[JWC86]

You might want to check if the tube/bottom bracket the bearings fit into isn't cracked from a hard landing.

Wouldn’t I need to remove the crankset to check that?

 

[JWC86]

Would this bottom bracket be compatible ?

 

[Pablo]

If you can get your cranks off, yes that looks like a fit.

That part is called a cartridge bottom bracket

 

[TCL]

Wouldn’t I need to remove the crankset to check that

Wouldn’t I need to remove the crankset to check that?

No, just the aluminum piece that holds the bearing tube.

 

[BISCUT]

The boys above got ya! Common to need to replace a BB sooner or later. Check out the link for BB tools. Pretty easy with the right tool.

park tool botton bracket tool - Yahoo Search Results

 

[zzyzzx]

This is yet still another reason why I prefer regular bottom brackets that have individually replaceable ball bearings.

 

[JWC86]

Thanks guys, I ordered the following:

This should take care of it.

 

[dadto2]

In my experience, the bearings don't have play, but they start to grind and there is a bit of resistance. I agree with TCL that you should inspect the bottom bracket (frame) for damage.

But pulling and replacing the bearing cartridge couldn't really be any easier once you figure it out.

 

[tcp71]

That's a normal Shimano cartridge bottom bracket of the day. They came in different levels (BB-52, BB-72 ad BB-92) for LX, XT and XTR groupsets (now Deore, STX and XT, I think).
the park tool BBT-9 or 19.2 will take that off once you have the cranks out. I've removed them with a pipe wrench if I was replacing them anyway. Remember one side is reverse threaded. follow the direction arrows on the ring.

to remove the cranks you need both the 8mm and 10mm bolts and rings holding it in place:

Question on removing Race Face Deus XC Crank?

www.mtbr.com

 

[SeaJay]

Looks a lot more complicated than the one speed coaster bikes we rode on and fixed back in the long ago day.

 

[JWC86]

to remove the cranks you need both the 8mm and 10mm bolts and rings holding it in place:

Question on removing Race Face Deus XC Crank?

www.mtbr.com

thanks but this doesn’t appear to be the style of my crankset. Mine doesn’t have the 10mm ring they are talking about and it looks like it requires a puller.

 

[tcp71]

Maybe it's ISIS? Try this:


I've pulled ISIS cranks with a long bolt through the center of the spindle and then tightening down on one side which pushes the splines out.

 

[Impatient]

I can’t help with pulling the crank, I have similar vintage Shimano cranks, which attach differently.

BUT, I will say, I have an opinion about the BB itself. The XTR version (BB92?) is awesome. The XT (BB72), not too bad. I believe the difference is the hardness/finishing on the balls themselves. So mt501 is lower end….though not necessarily bad…but they probably won’t last as long. If not too late, search for bb72 or above. Vintage XTR is often way overpriced, and only sometimes worth it.

That said, once the crank is removed, you can finger turn the BB bearings and check for roughness. ANY roughness will be reason enough to replace. In my experience, it was always the non-drive side that became rough (seems counter-intuitive). If you feel any difference, replace. You’ll know how smooth they can be by checking the drive side, which should be smooth as butter…unless both of yours are toast.). BBx3 are a newer generation with smaller balls (who would want that?). I guess they are 0.001 gms lighter, but who knows, maybe they are better-made. Heck, the removal tool might be different as well. I’ve never had reason to complain about the x2 vintage, especially not the XTR…though I’ve replaced a number of XT due to roughness….and snob that I was, I never went below XT on that part (though my SLX disk brakes seem awesome).

By the way, if you find that only your non-drive side is rough, you might find a replacement for that side only, which might be a cheapskate option (for cheapskates like me). They should be interchangeable/comparible…ie, a -72 non-drive can be installed with a -52 drive side.

That roughness might be the cause of the creak. There is some sort of anti-gall / anti-seize goop you should use when reassembling the bearings into the frame. Also, based on a quick look at the MTBR link provided, that RaceFace extracting bolt could probably use some goop as well. I liked RaceFace in general, but I always heard the cranks creaked, and people couldn’t get rid of the creak.

Cleaning everything throughly before reassembly is key.

 

[JWC86]

I can’t help with pulling the crank, I have similar vintage Shimano cranks, which attach differently.

BUT, I will say, I have an opinion about the BB itself. The XTR version (BB92?) is awesome. The XT, not too bad. I believe the difference is the hardness/finishing on the balls themselves. So mt501 is lower end….though not necessarily bad…but they probably won’t last as long. If not too late, search for bb72 or above. Vintage XTR is often way overpriced, and only sometimes worth it.

That said, once the crank is removed, you can finger turn the BB bearings and check for roughness. ANY roughness will be reason enough to replace. In my experience, it was always the non-drive side that became rough (seems counter-intuitive). If you feel any difference, replace. You’ll know how smooth they can be by checking the drive side, which should be smooth as butter…unless both of yours are toast.). BBx3 are a newer generation with smaller balls (who would want that?). I guess they are 0.001 gms lighter, but who knows, maybe they are better-made. I’ve never had reason to complain about the x2 vintage, especially not the XTR…though I’ve replaced a number of XT due to roughness….and snob that I was, I never went below XT on that part (though my SLX disk brakes seem awesome.

By the way, if you find that only your non-drive side is rough, you might find a replacement for that side only, which might be a cheapskate option (for cheapskates like me). They should be interchangeable/comparible…ie, a -72 non-drive can be installed with a -52 drive side.

That roughness might be the cause of the creak. There is some sort of anti-gall / anti-seize goop you should use when reassembling the bearings into the frame. Also, based on a quick look at the MTBR link provided, that RaceFace extracting bolt could probably use some goop as well. I liked RaceFace in general, but I always heard the cranks creaked, and people couldn’t get rid of the creak.

Cleaning everything throughly before reassembly is key.

This one?

Shimano XTR SM-BB93 Bottom Bracket

Features: Compatible with all mountain Hollowtech II cranks

fortnine.ca

 

[JWC86]

Checked to see if I could change my order but it already shipped. I should not have been so impatient and waited for a day to see what people had to say here, but I was trying to get it shipped out before the long weekend. Oh well, I guess I’ll just put the cheap one in it.

 

[853okg]

You shouldn’t need a crank puller. I believe this crank has a self extractor via 8mm Allen wrench. It’s a Race Face Deus XC, right?
If so that’s a good crank but a weak BB. To put it in perspective, the BB cups sell wholesale for nine bucks and change.
I know you already ordered a new one, but just so you know I believe Wheels of Boulder makes a BB that would due the crank justice. Wholesale on that unit is about 67 bucks I think.
A nice feature of this crank is the adjustable chainline. You can dial it in to match the gears you use most.

 

[tcp71]

You shouldn’t need a crank puller. I believe this crank has a self extractor via 8mm Allen wrench. It’s a Race Face Deus XC, right?
If so that’s a good crank but a weak BB. To put it in perspective, the BB cups sell wholesale for nine bucks and change.
I know you already ordered a new one, but just so you know I believe Wheels of Boulder makes a BB that would due the crank justice. Wholesale on that unit is about 67 bucks I think.
A nice feature of this crank is the adjustable chainline. You can dial it in to match the gears you use most.

If it is shifting well, make sure to put the new spacers back in the way they came out. That BB can be used on a 68mm or 73mm wide frame. I think giant of that era was 68mm which required the spacer(s) be placed on the non-drive side like the original in your picture. If the original BB-52 lasted you this long, I wouldn't worry about upgrading the replacement. Just clean and lightly lube the threads of the frame to minimize creaking.